What are the voltages for each USB 3.0 header pin of Aspire ATC-710-EB51

12357

Answers

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter
    edited November 12

    I plugged the 24 pin atx power supply cable as well as the 12 V atx cable into the motherboard and when I touched the PCH you were referring to it was not hot. I think the picture I took may have been misleading as my shadow was over it when I took the photo, so it appeared darker than it actually was. Here is another photo of it:

    IMG_0478.jpeg

    I think I also found the Super I/O chip, it had this sticker on it:

    IMG_0477.jpeg

    and when I took the sticker off this is what it looked like:

    IMG_0475.jpeg

    I also found and downloaded the schematic for this motherboard (the H11H4-AD2) and the schematic of the Super I/O looks like what I have on my motherboard:

    image.png
    image.png
    image.png
    image.png

    With cables from the power supply plugged in, I checked the voltages of the MOSFETS and they all read zero. I then checked the pins of the Super I/O, and most of them also had zero volts except for pins 28 and 29 (which had 2.90 V), pin 33 (5.17 V) and lastly pin 34 (3.56 V). I’m not sure what the voltages should be for the other pins or if there is any other place on the motherboard I should check for possibly faulty voltages or continuity

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon
    edited November 12

    Check all of your voltage feeds to the chip for low ohmage. Unplug AC Plug,

    I think pins 49 to 52 on that chip.

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    They're maybe read normally like 80 ohms as I remember.

    Let it stay unplugged for 5 minutes before checked to let the volts drain .

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I checked the resistances of pins 49 to 52 by contacting pin 54 with the black probe (which goes to ground according to the schematic) and contacting the other pins with the red probe. What I found was that pins 50 to 52 all had no continuity, but when I contacted pin 49 it would show continuity for less than a second. I checked it several times and it would produce different resistances ranging between 90 to 190 ohms

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Yes the 90 to 100 seems about right.

    As I remember that is normal.

    You may get slightly different results by reversing your leads and/or letting it sit a day or so without AC input.

    Do you get 12 V when you punch the on button OR did we establish that you never get positive 12 Volts.

    Do you ever smell an burning ODOR when flipping the power switch ??

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter
    edited November 12

    When I checked the voltages of the pins of the Super I/O pressing the on button didn't change the voltage readings. Pins 28 and 29 had 2.90 V, pin 33 had 5.17 V and pin 34 had 3.56 V. None of them had 12 V and no burning odour. I also used pin 44 as ground and when I contacted pin 53 with the red probe it had continuity of 1.5 ohms

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Pin 50 is your 12V.

    Pin 53 is ground

    You've already stated that you're missing 12V but have -12 in a previous post.

    You are going to need a schematic the start shedding loads on the 12V feed.

    Without a schematic, it'll be hard to trace where s the load without detecting a HOT spot or odor.

    HAVE your pulled the GPU unit then see if you 12 Volts comes back.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    According to the schematic in the previous post pin 54 is ground and pin 53 is AVCC.

    I don't think I can separate the GPU from the CPU as they are integrated, and there is a metal slab stuck to the top of it with some kind of adhesive. This is what it looks like:

    IMG_0480.jpeg

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Please repost your + 12 V reading with the power supply disconnected and with the PS connected to the mother board, as this thread is getting long and confusing.

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon
    edited November 13

    I've been thinking about that Domed capacitor on your powers supply that I mentioned before but after he checked it, I dismissed it. BUT possibly with load that is your problem. Replace the domed capacitor and try again. I always replaced all capacitor of thr same manufacturers when I'd see one domed unit. Use 105 DEGREE UNITS. I always used Panasonic or Nikkon quality

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I measured the voltages of pins 10 and 11 of the 24 pin connector both with the ac power connected and disconnected to the PSU and both yielded zero volts. I also saw another 4 pin connector coming from the PSU that I believe is also a 12 V line, it looks like this:

    IMG_0482.jpeg

    I measured the voltages of the pins both with ac power connected and disconnected to the PSU and this also yielded zero volts.

    Also when you say to replace the domed capacitors in the PSU, which ones exactly are you referring to? Here are the pictures again, maybe you can point them out to me:

    IMG_0414.jpeg
    IMG_0415.jpeg
    IMG_0416.jpeg
    IMG_0418.jpeg
    IMG_0419.jpeg
    IMG_0420.jpeg

    I’m thinking of ordering a new power supply from Amazon and testing it out on this motherboard to see if the problem lies with the motherboard or the PSU, and then returning it depending on what happens

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Changed the DOME CAPACIATOR behind J13 and any others that looked doomed, Use 105 degree new ones . An ESR meter is helpful but your eyes are better. I'm surprised that they will let you return a PS without a rebate. Most sellers won't as buyers try to ship back their bad units even though the new ones are infrared marked.

    image.png

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Most vendors have restocking fees plus you have to pay return shipping.

    Exchanging is treated different.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I took another look at the capacitors, none of them are domed. Maybe some pictures from another angle may show what I mean:

    IMG_0483.jpeg
    IMG_0484.jpeg
    IMG_0485.jpeg
    IMG_0486.jpeg

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    here’s another one of the one behind j13, labelled c33

    image.jpg

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Yes they look OK. It must have been the angle or reflection of the 1st picture.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter
    edited November 15

    I checked the capacitors on the motherboard by placing the black probe on the ground of the motherboard and the red probe on positive end of each capacitor and measured ohms. All the capacitors except for the four near the audio chip had about 0.5 ohms, while those four had no continuity. I don’t know what the resistance is supposed to be, but according to a YouTube video it should be about 20 to 80 ohms. Here’s a picture of the motherboard with the four capacitors with no continuity circled in red:

    IMG_0488.jpeg

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter
    edited November 15

    I also checked the resistances of each capacitor by placing the red probe on the positive end and the black probe on the negative end of the capacitor. Here is a picture of all the capacitors I checked circled in different colours:

    IMG_0488.jpeg

    The capacitors circled in red had no continuity, the ones in yellow had continuity for less than a second ranging between 20 to 140 ohms each time I checked them, the ones in dark blue had continuous continuity of about 3.5 ohms, the purple ones had continuity of 11 ohms, the one in cyan had 21.7 ohms, the one in orange had 140 ohms, the one in white had 96 ohms and the one in black had 1.5 ohms. The capacitors do not have any bulges, are not domed and are not lifted up.

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,677 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon
    edited November 15

    You need to take them out of circuit to test with Esr meter or a large cap meter. You ruin ohmmeter with charged caps

    Buy a ESR meter then pull out of circuit as parallel circuit conflicts.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I tested for continuity between the A/C ground pin of the PSU and the black wire pins of the 24 pin connector and they had continuity at about 0.5-0.7 ohms. I tested for continuity between the black wire pins of the 24 pin connector and the computer chassis and got the same results. I also tested for continuity between the coloured wires of the 24 pin connector and the chassis, and they had brief moment of continuity before showing infinite resistance, with values ranging between 80-190 ohms. The blue wire (number 14) was the only one that had permanent continuity at 180 ohms, and the grey wire (number 8) had no continuity. Here is a picture of the atx 24 pin connector for reference:

    IMG_0490.jpeg

    I also tested for continuity between the 24 pins on the motherboard and ground (the chassis), here is a picture for reference:

    IMG_0491.jpeg

    The ground pins (3, 5, 7, 15, 17-19) had continuity at 0.5-0.6 ohms, pin 8 had no continuity, and the other coloured wires only had continuity for brief moment ranging between 90-180 ohms. Pins 4, 6, 8, and 10-12 were especially inconsistent, as sometimes they would show continuity briefly and other times they would not trigger any reading on the motherboard. I did some reading on different websites and I saw in a couple of them that when the power supply is connected to the motherboard and A/C current, the voltage at pin 8 of the 24 pin connector should be 2.5-5 V, and when the power button is pressed the voltage should drop briefly before coming back up again. On my motherboard pin 8 has zero volts both when the power button is pressed and released, and according to this site it means the motherboard should be replaced:

    IMG_0492.jpeg

    But I would still like to be able to diagnose what exactly is the problem with it

Categories