What are the voltages for each USB 3.0 header pin of Aspire ATC-710-EB51

SafeandSound · October 23

When the button is not pressed there is no continuity in any of the wires, and when the button is pressed there is continuity between the orange and grey wires. However, the first time I did the continuity test with the power button there was continuity between the white and green wire, and the LED light lit up, but there was no continuity between the orange and grey wires.

Larryodie · October 23

If you're using an ohmmeter then the led may light with power off (if you have the leads correct to forward bias the LED as the ohmmeter has volts on the leads) I assume that you're using the ohmmeter with power unplugged ?

It seems like the switch is OK if you're getting continuity. The PS may have to send a voltage to the LED to light it ?

As I asked before, do you see a change on PIN 16 (from your chart) with power on and you press the switch ?

I still see cracks in the switch via your picture. Is it damage as it looks ?

I still don't know which 2 leads turn it on ?

But I think that you should have 2 sets of wires with continuity with the button pressed,

You can eliminate one by tracing it to the LED, maybe 2 of them go to the LED ??

SafeandSound · November 2

yes I am using an ohmmeter to check continuity, I checked the power button wires both when plugged and unplugged and it yields the same results. The orange and grey wire have continuity but the green and white wires don’t have continuity, but the very first time I tested the power button a few weeks ago the green and white wire had continuity and the LED light lit up when I tested them. I also tested the power supply again both plugged and unplugged, and when it was unplugged while pin 16 and 17 were shorted (with a paper clip) all the other pins produced the proper voltages, but when I plugged it in and press and held the power button none of the pins produced any voltages. Since the power supply doesn’t show any voltages when plugged in but does when it’s unplugged, does that mean that it’s failing under load? Or does the problem lie in the motherboard?

SafeandSound · November 2

and the power button has no cracks, I’m not sure where you’re seeing that

SafeandSound · November 2

When I said I tested the power supply pins (24 pin connector), I only checked one of the pins when all the cables were plugged in. I have now checked all the pins with all the cables plugged in, and yes the power on wire (green, pin 16) has a voltage of 3.56 volts and pin 9 has a voltage of 5.19 volts, but the other pins have no voltage.

Larryodie · November 3

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1306563#Comment_1306563

The small crack (top right corner) (actually 2 times) visible in the black plastic of the bracket BUT probably no harm as it seems to stop before the switch.

Larryodie · November 3

Read out the pins voltage with the switch, not pressed then the voltages with the switch pressed.

…………….. NOT PRESSED PRESSED

WHITE X X
GREEN X X
ORANGE X X
GRAY X X

Larryodie · November 3

IT could be too that the Power ON Pin should be a grounding and not a volt.

If PIN16 is actually the POWER ON then you should see change in Volts or ohms when the switch is pushed.

Larryodie · November 3

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1306575#Comment_1306575

What happens to PIN 16 when the button is pressed ??

SafeandSound · November 4

I checked the voltages of the pins of the power button, and they are as follows:

Green wire pin - 0.09 volts button pressed, 0.09 volts not pressed

White wire pin - 0.09 volts pressed, 0.09 volts not pressed

Orange wire pin - 0.00 volts pressed, 5.17 volts not pressed

Grey wire pin - 0.00 volts pressed, 0.00 volts not pressed

According to the diagram I posted about the power supply and also other online sources, the green wire of the power supply should be power on, which is pin 16. The voltage for that wire's pin is the same whether the power button is pressed or not.

Larryodie · November 4

SO the Orange wire goes to Zero.

Then the orange should go to PIN 16 and turn on the supply thus the fan should start and the pin 10 and 11 of the PS should go to 12 V per your chart.

Do you see any fluctuation on the 12 V LINES when the button is pressed ?

Do you see any fluctuation if the PS is unplugged and you short pin 16 to a ground pin on the plug, then if not, most likely the PS unit is bad.

BUT you still have the USB problem which I think is a software problem solved by going into recovery mode per Billsey post.

ONE last chance on your PS is to unplugged it from the main board and pull the AC cord, overnight to possibly reset it.

billsey · November 4

You shouldn't be measuring voltages on the switch. You should measure continuity to verify the switch closes when pressed and opens when released. That's all the switch needs to do… The other two wires are for the LED power light. They act as a diode, so have continuity one direction and not the other. When voltage is applied to the correct side, and the other side is grounded, the light will be lit. When voltage is not applied, or applied to the wrong side, it will not light.

SafeandSound · November 4

I checked the continuity of the wires of the power button, and there is no continuity between the white and green wires whether the button is pressed or not, but there is continuity between the orange and grey wires when the button is pressed.

When all the cables of the power supply are connected and the power button is pressed there are no voltages on the 12 V lines and no fluctuations. When the cables of the power supply are disconnected (except AC power to the power supply) and pins 16 and 17 are shorted the only pins that have fluctuation in voltages are pins 14, 9 and 8. Pin 14 fluctuates between -11.70 and -11.69 V, pin 9 fluctuates between 5.19 and 5.20 V, and pin 8 fluctuates between 5.04 and 5.05 V

Larryodie · November 4

I would say that with NO + 12 V power that you probably have an open fuse /IC Protector in the power supply. Maybe time to get another one unless you're able to replace the IC protector or fuse that are probably solder into the printed circuit board. Remember that you'll maybe still have the USB problem.

Larryodie · November 4

That small fluctuation is probably normal and I'm not sure if the -12 is used.

Larryodie · November 4

By research, the green wire from the switch goes to pin 16 of the power supply plug thus when you push the on/off switch pin 16 and pin 17 should have continuity with an ohm meter if not then your on/off switch is BAD too

It's very confusing.

SafeandSound · November 5

I checked for continuity between pin 16 and 17 when pressing and holding the power button and there was none. When I checked for continuity between the green and white wires of the power button - which I believe are for the LED light because when I did this test the first time a few weeks ago the light lit up - there was no continuity either. Billsey mentioned that if the LED light is grounded and is receiving voltage then the LED should illuminate, so do you think the problem is one of the wires in the power switch may be disconnected or shorting?

I also opened up my power supply unit and I found five IC fuses, IC2, IC3, IC7, IC8 and IC10, but I didn’t see any visible damage. Here are some pictures of my PSU:

Which one of these is the IC protector and how can I tell if it’s been blown?

Larryodie · November 5

I don't see any ICP in your pictures. IC's and ICP are 2 different things as a ICP is only 2 legged as a fuse and will check short with an ohmmeter across it as will a fuse.

CHECK EACH WIRE from the switch BY COLOR from the switch to the plug for continuity with the AC plug removed.

Then if OK , the 2 wires that go to pin 16 & 17 should have continuity when the on/off switch is pushed.

Larryodie · November 5

DELETED THIS

SafeandSound · November 5

I checked each wire of the power switch with the pins of the 24 pin connector using the ohmmeter with the AC cable disconnected and got some interesting results. Pins 1 and 2 had continuity with each of the wires of the power switch, but only momentarily and with resistances over 100 ohms. Pins 4, 6 and 9 had momentary continuity with the green, white and orange wires at over 100 ohms and permanent continuity with the grey wire around 30 ohms. Pin 8 had permanent continuity with the grey wire and also with the orange wire when the button was pressed both around 20 or 30 ohms. Pins 10 and 11 had momentary continuity with the green and white wire at over 100 ohms and permanent continuity with the grey wire and also the orange wire when the button was pressed under 3 ohms. Pins 12, 21-23 had no continuity with any wires and pin 13 had momentary continuity with each of the wires of the power button over 100 ohms, except for the grey wire at around 80 ohms. Pin 14 had momentary continuity with all the wires except the orange wire over 100 ohms (resistance with the grey wire was around 80 ohms) and pin 16 only had momentary continuity with the grey wire, over 100 ohms. I also checked for continuity between pins 16 and 17 again with everything plugged in, and what I found was that when I put the red probe into pin 16 and the black probe into pin 17 there was no continuity, but when I put the red probe into pin 17 and the black probe into pin 16 the ohmmeter displayed -90 ohms.

I also checked the power supply unit’s PCB and although I didn’t find anything labeled ICP, I did find IC 9, which looks similar to what you were describing as an ICP. Here are a few pictures of it: