What are the voltages for each USB 3.0 header pin of Aspire ATC-710-EB51

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Answers

  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 34,584 Trailblazer

    Here is the pinout for the USB 3.0 connector that you originally asked for:

    The problem with the USB ports not working is likely caused by a recent Windows update, which can cause those symptoms, as well a a bunch of others. Boot to the recovery mode, typically done in your case by aborting the boot with the power button three times in a row, then use the recovery menu to uninstall the latest updates. The likely one is KB5043145, but they might have done another since that one was from last month.

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  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    Do you know what voltages should be seeing on a multimeter when checking the pins?

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Pin 1 and Pin 19 about 5.1 V . The other pins, youll need an oscilloscope to see the data.

    Please read and do as Billsey's posted .

    Billsey's Post.

    "The problem with the USB ports not working is likely caused by a recent Windows update, which can cause those symptoms, as well a a bunch of others. Boot to the recovery mode, typically done in your case by aborting the boot with the power button three times in a row, then use the recovery menu to uninstall the latest updates. The likely one is KB5043145, but they might have done another since that one was from last month."

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    ok so I tried to do what billsey said this afternoon after church and now the computer will not turn on. Has the motherboard failed or is something else the problem?

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Remove power and all cables from the desktop, and press and hold the power button for 30 seconds. Plug power back in to the desktop and see if the computer will power on. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE AC .

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I tried what you said, still not working

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    As I understand, it doesn't power up now ??

    Is the fan running, do you get any beeps, does the power light blink, does the power light come on ???

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    none of those things happens anymore

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Is it plugged in ?

    Power on the receptable and the cord plugged into the socket on the computer ?

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    yes it is, do you think the power supply may have failed?

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    I took out the power supply and tested the pins of the connector. This is the pin layout:

    and here are the correct voltages for each pin:

    Now when I tested the pins on my power supply unit, all the pins had 0 volts on my multimeter except for pin 4, which had 5 volts. So I guess it’s safe to assume then that the power supply unit has been the problem the whole time?

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    I think 5V ok until you push the on button.

    5v is standby. Check your on off switch and cables.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    actually I checked the power supply unit wrong, I didn’t put a connection between pin 16 and 17 when I tested it the first time. I did it the right way this time and all voltages are normal. So could the problem be the motherboard?

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    Does the power button bring the voltage up as your jumping did ???

    Do you cables disconnected from the power button?

    I think your usb problem is a software problem that could be corrected by going to recovery but now you've got cables disconnected or you broke the onoff switch by banging on it.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    My main problem now is that the computer won’t turn on. I didn’t break any switch and I didn’t bang on anything. I disconnected the power button cable from the motherboard and I checked the wires for continuity. The first time I tested the cable while pressing and holding the power button, the green and white wire had continuity but the other wires didn’t. The second time I checked, only the orange and grey wire had continuity. I also used a screwdriver to short pins 1 and 3 of the motherboard for the front panel header power button while connected to power and the computer did not start. Maybe both the power button and motherboard are faulty now.

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    I don't have a schematic so I don't know the continuity pins. But check it physically as it is usually mounted on a small PC board that the patterns crack under heavy use.

  • SafeandSound
    SafeandSound Member Posts: 64 Troubleshooter

    there is no pc board present, here is what it looks like:

    the white wire connects to the led light that indicates that power is on, and it no longer has continuity according to my multimeter. But the orange and grey wire have continuity. Do you know where I could find a schematic for these wires?

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    I don't have any schematic, seems that it would be the orange and grey.

    The 2nd picture has cracks near the grey and orange wire ?

    You posted a chart that shows pin 16 is the power.

  • Larryodie
    Larryodie Member Posts: 1,738 Community Aficionado WiFi Icon

    I'm wondering too, if you have any voltages to any of the switch pin or the LED in stand-by. Most likely 5 volts or less ??

  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 34,584 Trailblazer
    edited October 22

    In answer to the original question, you can't really use a multimeter to look at voltages on the data pins of a USB port, since they fluctuate as data is moved, giving weird readings. You have to use a scope to see the data pulses.

    For the current issue, we know the PSU is working, since when you jumper the power enable circuit you get all the right voltages. What we don't know for sure is that the power button is actually closing when it's pressed. You should be able to trace those wires to see which are going to the button. You should see no circuit when the button isn't pressed and a closed circuit when the button is pressed. You only need a momentary circuit to turn the PSU on.

    The picture of the power button from the service guide doesn't show four wires, but it might just be the white and gray aren't bright enough to see:

    I think it likely one pair is the button and one pair lights an LED. The LED pair would be a diode, so only show resistance in one direction.

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