What are the voltages for each USB 3.0 header pin of Aspire ATC-710-EB51

SafeandSound

I plugged the 24 pin atx power supply cable as well as the 12 V atx cable into the motherboard and when I touched the PCH you were referring to it was not hot. I think the picture I took may have been misleading as my shadow was over it when I took the photo, so it appeared darker than it actually was. Here is another photo of it:

I think I also found the Super I/O chip, it had this sticker on it:

and when I took the sticker off this is what it looked like:

I also found and downloaded the schematic for this motherboard (the H11H4-AD2) and the schematic of the Super I/O looks like what I have on my motherboard:

With cables from the power supply plugged in, I checked the voltages of the MOSFETS and they all read zero. I then checked the pins of the Super I/O, and most of them also had zero volts except for pins 28 and 29 (which had 2.90 V), pin 33 (5.17 V) and lastly pin 34 (3.56 V). I’m not sure what the voltages should be for the other pins or if there is any other place on the motherboard I should check for possibly faulty voltages or continuity

Larryodie

Check all of your voltage feeds to the chip for low ohmage. Unplug AC Plug,

I think pins 49 to 52 on that chip.

Larryodie

They're maybe read normally like 80 ohms as I remember.

Let it stay unplugged for 5 minutes before checked to let the volts drain .

SafeandSound

I checked the resistances of pins 49 to 52 by contacting pin 54 with the black probe (which goes to ground according to the schematic) and contacting the other pins with the red probe. What I found was that pins 50 to 52 all had no continuity, but when I contacted pin 49 it would show continuity for less than a second. I checked it several times and it would produce different resistances ranging between 90 to 190 ohms

Larryodie

Yes the 90 to 100 seems about right.

As I remember that is normal.

You may get slightly different results by reversing your leads and/or letting it sit a day or so without AC input.

Do you get 12 V when you punch the on button OR did we establish that you never get positive 12 Volts.

Do you ever smell an burning ODOR when flipping the power switch ??

SafeandSound

When I checked the voltages of the pins of the Super I/O pressing the on button didn't change the voltage readings. Pins 28 and 29 had 2.90 V, pin 33 had 5.17 V and pin 34 had 3.56 V. None of them had 12 V and no burning odour. I also used pin 44 as ground and when I contacted pin 53 with the red probe it had continuity of 1.5 ohms

Larryodie

Pin 50 is your 12V.

Pin 53 is ground

You've already stated that you're missing 12V but have -12 in a previous post.

You are going to need a schematic the start shedding loads on the 12V feed.

Without a schematic, it'll be hard to trace where s the load without detecting a HOT spot or odor.

HAVE your pulled the GPU unit then see if you 12 Volts comes back.

SafeandSound

According to the schematic in the previous post pin 54 is ground and pin 53 is AVCC.

I don't think I can separate the GPU from the CPU as they are integrated, and there is a metal slab stuck to the top of it with some kind of adhesive. This is what it looks like:

Larryodie

Please repost your + 12 V reading with the power supply disconnected and with the PS connected to the mother board, as this thread is getting long and confusing.

Larryodie

I've been thinking about that Domed capacitor on your powers supply that I mentioned before but after he checked it, I dismissed it. BUT possibly with load that is your problem. Replace the domed capacitor and try again. I always replaced all capacitor of thr same manufacturers when I'd see one domed unit. Use 105 DEGREE UNITS. I always used Panasonic or Nikkon quality

SafeandSound

I measured the voltages of pins 10 and 11 of the 24 pin connector both with the ac power connected and disconnected to the PSU and both yielded zero volts. I also saw another 4 pin connector coming from the PSU that I believe is also a 12 V line, it looks like this:

I measured the voltages of the pins both with ac power connected and disconnected to the PSU and this also yielded zero volts.

Also when you say to replace the domed capacitors in the PSU, which ones exactly are you referring to? Here are the pictures again, maybe you can point them out to me:

I’m thinking of ordering a new power supply from Amazon and testing it out on this motherboard to see if the problem lies with the motherboard or the PSU, and then returning it depending on what happens

Larryodie

Changed the DOME CAPACIATOR behind J13 and any others that looked doomed, Use 105 degree new ones . An ESR meter is helpful but your eyes are better. I'm surprised that they will let you return a PS without a rebate. Most sellers won't as buyers try to ship back their bad units even though the new ones are infrared marked.

Larryodie

Most vendors have restocking fees plus you have to pay return shipping.

Exchanging is treated different.

SafeandSound

I took another look at the capacitors, none of them are domed. Maybe some pictures from another angle may show what I mean:

SafeandSound

here’s another one of the one behind j13, labelled c33

Larryodie

Yes they look OK. It must have been the angle or reflection of the 1st picture.

SafeandSound

I checked the capacitors on the motherboard by placing the black probe on the ground of the motherboard and the red probe on positive end of each capacitor and measured ohms. All the capacitors except for the four near the audio chip had about 0.5 ohms, while those four had no continuity. I don’t know what the resistance is supposed to be, but according to a YouTube video it should be about 20 to 80 ohms. Here’s a picture of the motherboard with the four capacitors with no continuity circled in red:

SafeandSound

I also checked the resistances of each capacitor by placing the red probe on the positive end and the black probe on the negative end of the capacitor. Here is a picture of all the capacitors I checked circled in different colours:

The capacitors circled in red had no continuity, the ones in yellow had continuity for less than a second ranging between 20 to 140 ohms each time I checked them, the ones in dark blue had continuous continuity of about 3.5 ohms, the purple ones had continuity of 11 ohms, the one in cyan had 21.7 ohms, the one in orange had 140 ohms, the one in white had 96 ohms and the one in black had 1.5 ohms. The capacitors do not have any bulges, are not domed and are not lifted up.

Larryodie

You need to take them out of circuit to test with Esr meter or a large cap meter. You ruin ohmmeter with charged caps

Buy a esr meter then pull put of circuit as parallel circuit conflicts.