What are the voltages for each USB 3.0 header pin of Aspire ATC-710-EB51

Larryodie

Please FORGET THE ICP and the PS PICTURES until I decipher your readings.

DO you have your multimeter on DIODE mode as the 70 ohm readings are probably across the LED.

I am so confused,

Larryodie

You've got 4 WIRES going to the switch.

WHY can't you check continuity by COLOR of each wire to the plug ???

Use non-diode mode on your meter.

I'm afraid that I'm going to have to say good bye as this is too confusing for an old man.

I fixed these Power Supplies (Bench repair) on TV's and computers for 45 years at my shop BUT I'm so confused that you can't check color by color continuity of 4 wires without making multiple pictures of the power supply.

Good BYE and Good Luck as I'm out.

Larryodie

One of my post didn't post.

If the SMPS power supply detects an overload then it'll electronically clamp the ps into a shutdown mode. You can only reset it by unplugging from AC then wait up to 5 minutes before replugging into the wall.

billsey

Checking continuity on the 24 pin connector isn't going to tell you anything at all, since there's no way to tell what might be going on on the motherboard side of things. You know the PSU is powering up because you jumpered the power enable pins at one point and it started putting out power. You can verify that you have each of the power outputs working at that point by looking at the 3.3V, 5V, 12V, -5V and -12V lines.

On the power switch itself, you can safely ignore the LED wires, since they are only used to light that indicator, and do nothing to the system. If you get contact between the other two when the switch is depressed and not when released it is doing exactly as it should. It is acting the same as your jumper in the PSU test. When the motherboard sees the switch close, it turns on the PS_On to the power supply on that 24 pin connector, which turns the power on to the rest of the system.

If the switch and power supply are both doing as they should, then the fans will come on, the LED on the power switch will come on and the motherboard will start it's initialization. We've been hashing this out for quite some time now, and it's a good time to get back to the basics… You've tested the PSU and power button, what exactly are your symptoms at this point?

SafeandSound

My symptoms are that nothing starts or activates when everything is plugged into the motherboard and the power button is pressed. I took both the power supply and the power switch to a computer shop to do a basic test since they offered it for free (diagnostic test costs quite a bit) and the technician there used some kind of power supply tester and said the PSU turns on, but it wasn't tested under load. He also plugged the power switch into some kind of mock computer board and said the power switch works as well, and when I took it home and checked the power switch again with my multimeter, there was continuity between the orange and grey wires when the button was pressed and the LED light lit up when I contacted the pins for the green and white wires (although the multimeter showed no continuity, both when the button was pressed and not pressed). I don't have another computer that is compatible with this power supply, so how can I know if it works under load, and how can I determine if the motherboard may be the problem?

Larryodie

PLEASE take a picture of your plug (From the PS) plugged in to the mother board.

ALSO take a picture of your wires from the on/off switch connection to the MB. I assume that they connect to the same cable from the Power Supply OR ?

Did you take the PS, cable and switch as one unit to the shop.

Also are you screwing the PS into the chassis as it may need to be totally grounded. Is there a big green/yellow wire from the PS to the chassis to ground it.

Larryodie

Another thought is to take the complete unit to the computer shop to fix and diagnose the unit plus fix your USB problem.

SafeandSound

Here is a photo of the motherboard with everything plugged in (except the hard drive):

And here is another photo showing the 24 pin connector from the power supply plugged into the motherboard:

And finally here is a photo of the wires from the power switch (it’s the green, white, orange and grey wires):

The power supply unit and front panel power button switch are not one unit, maybe that’s where the confusion is. There is no wire that connects the power supply unit to the chassis.

Larryodie

Picture 1 , two black cables near the RAM sockets, one looks not in correctly (backward)

Picture 1 , the 4 pins coming from the switch, green, white, orange and white/gray, the wires MAYBE broken inside (white and orange) . It doesn't take much to break these.

Check the continuity from the plug's pin back to your on/off switch

Otherwise it looks good.

Good Luck

SafeandSound

when you say to check continuity from the plug’s pin to the on/off switch, are you referring to the front panel pins on the motherboard, like this:

when I took the front panel power button switch to the shop yesterday the technician said it was working fine

Larryodie

You were saying that you didn't have continuity when you got home ?

Possibly because one of the wires in that cable, is broken inside and maybe by a wire sliver, it touches sometimes (intermittent) with in the sleeving.

SafeandSound

yes the green and white wires didn’t have continuity but according to the ohmmeter the LED light lit up

Larryodie

Why don't you put your meter in the NON DIODE setting or reverse the leads ??

Use the resistance setting on your multimeter.

Your meter should have a non-diode setting that won't light the LED.

I have looked over your pictures of the MB and all I see is one of the 2 black plugs near the RAM slots looks like i's not plugged in or backwards ?? It hard to see.

Have you tried it with RAM and a hard drive installed ? I'm not sure if it matters but worth a try.

SafeandSound

I've been using the resistance setting the whole time.

The two black plugs are plugged in correctly, they are for the HDD and the optical drive. I've also tried it with RAM and a hard drive, still no success.

billsey

It still sounds to me like the button and LED are working as expected. Measuring resistance will only really tell you anything on the switch itself, and as expected you get continuity when the button is pressed and do not when the button is released. The other two wires are the power status LED and that needs to be tested by applying power to it, with the correct polarity, but is a moot point since it has nothing to do with the actual function of the system. With everything connected as it is supposed to be, when you press the power button it sends a signal through the motherboard, using the standby power, that tells the power supply to turn on. If the power supply turns on and is working right, the next thing you would see is the CPU fan also turning on, though it might spin for just a couple of seconds and then turn back off. If the fan doesn't come on then either the motherboard isn't taking the power from the power supply and feeding it to the fan or the power supply isn't providing enough power to get the fan to move.

Now, before when you tested voltage on the power supply, with the power_on jumpered in the 24 pin connector, it sounds like the voltage were correct for each output. That leads me to believe the issue is not with the power supply, but rather with the motherboard. The only easy way to tell is to test with a different, known good, motherboard. For an Aspire TC-710 from 2016 it's very likely not worth pursuing farther.

SafeandSound

I want to test some components of the motherboard for this computer, which is the H11H4-AD2. Do you know which IC on it is the Super I/O? I see three different ICs with a company name on it

SafeandSound

These are what I saw on the motherboard:

I’ve also heard that in some motherboards the super I/O is combined with the southbridge chipset or the PCH, so here’s a picture of mine:

Larryodie

The main IC on the last picture has been very HOT

Put your finger on it when you try to power ON but 1st reset the PS by unplugging from AC for 5 minutes after each try.

You most likely can not find that chip or assembly plus you need a hot air unit to remove and replace.

I have or had a Hakko hot air system BUT those chips/assemblies are hit and miss to remove and replace with the solder balls.

I reflowed some intermittent HDMI chips on TV's but I was never able to successfully replace one.

You Tube has videos on reflow and replacement .

As Billsey said give it up and buy you a new one while they're reasonable priced .

There is some mother boards on Ebay but I'd go with a NEW desktop.

SafeandSound

Just out of curiosity is there a way I can check it with a multimeter and if yes what reading should it display?

Larryodie

Not without a schematic

You maybe can use a infrared thermometer or simply touch with your finger when power up.

NOTE. Always unplug the computer from AC for like 5 minutes to reset any shutdown clamps that may be present, each time.