egydiocoelho said:

What is the version bios?

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JackE said:

Sorry, not a good practice. Jack E/NJ .

aphanic said:

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Akihitokun said:

Isn't it the same with other people who also uses the same laptop as mine? Do I need to find one so I can get their recovery solution sir? My model is Acer Aspire A315-41G-R6CS

Don't bother, it wouldn't fix your problem.

Windows 10 + drivers and apps off of the Acer support page for the model = Whatever was in that recovery image minus promoted apps (sometimes called bloatware). And you know what exactly was installed instead of trusting there's nothing malicious in there.

As for software that installs drivers for you... I have mixed feelings in that department. Driver Booster, Driver Max, Driver Genius, etc. for example I wouldn't recommend using; some don't take into consideration important things and install whatever deem newer even if it doesn't apply. Intel's ME for example comes to mind as a component whose drivers don't use semantic versioning. Realtek's GbE adapters prefix a their version of the driver with the OS it's intended to, for example 10.x... means it's for Windows 10 and 7.x... means it's for Windows 7 and still some programs may recommend you install a 7.x... driver if that came after the 10.x... they have in their database.

There are 2 of 3 programs I'm using myself:

• DriverPack Solution: I wouldn't recommend it either hahaha, but I do and have used it at times. The reason for the non-recommendation is that by default it's aggressive AF and not only tries to install drivers but programs too, leaves unintended traces (at first they tried to hide its call home program as an scheduled task for when you rebooted haha). Overall, goes into the unethical programming for me, and some antivirus programs even block its execution.
  
  Still, as far as driver databases go they have a large one, useful at times to dissect when a problem began or try different things.
• SDI (Snappy Driver Installer): Interesting and useful, doesn't install things you don't want to and downloading the indexes shows some things that could be upgraded. Still some things may not apply (the Surface battery ACPI thing for example), but since they share the same ID there's nothing that could be done. It does a fairly good job at discerning older machines in which Synaptics and ELAN used the same IDs for their touchpads. Pretty good overall.
• DriverEasy: If any regular person were to ask me for a program to install drivers, this is what I would recommend at the moment. I think their free offering limits download speed and requires you to install drivers manually, but it's a sensible program: sometimes doesn't offer the latest driver but the one they offer works as expected and I found their rate of false positives (recommended drivers that weren't meant for that hardware) low.
  

There is (but their database is somewhat limited) another driver installing program that did it all on its own, the DevID.info agent (it's a green icon at the top right of the page), the reason I mention this one is because I loved that they differentiated between the hardware IDs of a certain component and their compatible IDs. Sometimes driver update programs would recommend going for a newer one that was compatible with your hardware, but what if you wanted to be served drivers that were meant for the hardware you have? That would target the specific hardware you have? You'd be out of luck, or it'd be a manual thing, you'd have to check the IDs yourself and the regular Joe ain't going to do it.

As for your problem... this is what I'd do step by step:

• Mobile Ryzen systems had a rough start, not talking about the Acer brand specifically but there were all sorts of problems due to their microcode and power states. When installing Windows anew, for the love of God don't go to 1709 again, that release is too close to the date your APU was released. Aim for 1909 (1903 is the same to be honest, the previous one should be 1809).

1. Create a bootable Windows USB stick, since you're able to at least run Windows I'd let their official tool do the job: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
2. Once the USB is created, and before booting into it, ensure the machine is running on the latest firmware update, which would be 1.15.
3. Ensure the firmware is configured correctly, concretely you're running in UEFI mode (maybe this should be step 1? )
4. Now restart the machine and boot into the Windows installation program, once you reach the stage in which you're asked where you'd want it to be installed delete every partition you find already in your disk:
   
   
   
   You'll end up with the whole drive being unallocated, then click select that unallocated space and click Next, the installer will create the necessary partitions. It can also be done with Diskpart (Shift+F10 opens up a command prompt), but I guess this is easier.
5. After the first reboot you can remove the USB stick, it's not needed anymore.
6. Once it's all installed, connect to the Internet (I don't like to connect during setup, but that's up to you) and let the system do its thing. Namely get activated (does it automatically), install missing drivers off of Windows Update, etc.
7. A couple of minutes later, say... 15 for good measure, go to Settings -> Update & Security and Check for Updates. There will be, at least last months cumulative updates for the system and .NET but certainly a couple more and maybe some drivers that weren't installed just yet.
8. Leave it be until it finishes and finally reboot the system.
9. Check for updates again in case there was something yet to be installed after the reboot and check if you experience the same problems as before.

Now...

• If you don't, all is good, install whatever programs you use and keep going.
• If you do, let's see if there's any other release of the drivers that could be used and get the system working:
  

1. Install SDI or Driver Easy and let's see what's up, when in doubt you can post a screenshot of what they find and we'll tell you which to install, or how to install them manually if necessary.

It may seem that you've gone through all of this already, but I'd rather troubleshoot a system cleanly installed that one that has already undergone driver installation from who knows where and uninstallations. If there were no other option than to use that system then the procedure would be to use DDU to clean every trace of the drivers from within Safe Mode, but if possible a clean install is desirable.