f15 f5-572g-563q won't start

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Answers

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    The difference comes with the exchanged RAM card: the blue light (and thus the power) stays on when releasing the power button. 
    The screen still makes an initial flash when powered.
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    >>>The screen still makes an initial flash when powered. >>>

    What about the external screen? Does it flash too?

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    No, the external screen does not flash.
    When I have the laptop connected to the external screen via HDMI cable and the external screen is powered on, the external screen says that no HDMI is connected/detected. Then the external screen enters sleep mode I guess, as it goes black but is still powered, and responds to its buttons. 
    (The external screen doesn't seem to notice the laptop at all).
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    Your model has two graphics adapters, Do you recall ever trying to change the graphic adapter in the BIOS menu or update the BIOS? Jack E/NJ

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    edited July 2020
    Hmm, no. I don't recall this, nor do I know how this would be done.
    Is this something I can do right now?

    While searching I found this:
    https://www.acer.com/ac/en/ID/content/support-product/6379;-
    I do not remember using this at any time though.
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    >>>The difference comes with the exchanged RAM card: the blue light (and thus the power) stays on when releasing the power button. 
    The screen still makes an initial flash when powered. >>>

    Can you find the screen ribbon cable that passes through the hinge area and connects to the mainboard? It probably is the same hinge as the antenna coax cables that you thought were broken. Jack E/NJ

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter


    This one?
    Should I unplug it and try with the external monitor again?
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    Yes. Pull it off, then push it  back on. Do this a half-dozen or so times to help clean the internal contacts inside the connector. However, disconnect the battery pack before doing this!!!! Jack E/NJ


    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    So, I tried what you just wrote. Then I plugged back the battery and tried to start the laptop. No success; pressing fn + f5 doesn't help.
    I connected the laptop to the external monitor. No luck. Tried rebooting it but that didn't help either.

    Can I remove the battery => remove the LCD-cable => attach the battery => attach the HDMI cable  => boot?
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    Yes, but make sure loose LCD-cable  connector doesn't touch any metal parts. Jack E/NJ

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    Tried what I proposed. Nothing happened on the monitor.
    Booting the laptop with the LCD-cable disconnected does not make the laptop's screen flash.
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    Yes, of course. But I thought you were going to connect the HDMI cable to a TV to test if disconnecting the laptop screen made the TV screen work? Jack E/NJ

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    I'm unsure of what you mean.
    I tried connecting the laptop via HDMI to a TV screen. Both without and with the LCD-cable connection.
    I tried all the TV's outlets for HDMI and I did this with 2 different HDMI cables.
    In all cases, the TV screen only displayed "no signal".

    Did you mean this, or something else?
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    Yes. I think the default graphics adapter is no longer working. The way that it suddenly failed suggests that one or more of its soldered mainboard connections along with the i7 CPU have failed or cracked. It might be worth trying a solder reflow of the CPU with a heat gun. Jack E/NJ

    Jack E/NJ

  • Pompan
    Pompan Member Posts: 34 Troubleshooter
    Alright. Only with a heat gun then (not anything besides that)?

    Which part do you mean? Could you mark it out? Thanks

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 45,177 Trailblazer
    A heat gun is safest since it directs heat only on the integrated CPU/GPU. The other option is to bake the whole bare mainboard on an aluminum foil cookie sheet for about 10-15min in a toaster oven preheated to between 425-450*F.  The CPU/GPU copper heat pipe, heatsink  & fan must be removed. A solder re-flow is a last resort method of trying to salvage a mainboard.   Jack E/NJ








    Jack E/NJ