Larryodie Community Aficionado

Yes they look OK. It must have been the angle or reflection of the 1st picture.

Most vendors have restocking fees plus you have to pay return shipping. Exchanging is treated different.

Changed the DOME CAPACIATOR behind J13 and any others that looked doomed, Use 105 degree new ones . An ESR meter is helpful but your eyes are better. I'm surprised that they will let you return a PS without a rebate. Most sellers won't as buyers try to ship back their bad units even though the new ones are infrared marked.

Do you have any window's updates that have not been processed ?

I've been thinking about that Domed capacitor on your powers supply that I mentioned before but after he checked it, I dismissed it. BUT possibly with load that is your problem. Replace the domed capacitor and try again. I always replaced all capacitor of thr same manufacturers when I'd see one domed unit. Use 105 DEGREE…

Please repost your + 12 V reading with the power supply disconnected and with the PS connected to the mother board, as this thread is getting long and confusing.

Yes in my case, I didn't clone a new add on drive as I just use it for pictures. But in your case, I suppose the cloning should do the partitions, I just post it so that you could check yours. Maybe you need to re-clone or use different clone software ?

This may help as it has always helped me. But maybe not the same for your drive ???

Pin 50 is your 12V. Pin 53 is ground You've already stated that you're missing 12V but have -12 in a previous post. You are going to need a schematic the start shedding loads on the 12V feed. Without a schematic, it'll be hard to trace where s the load without detecting a HOT spot or odor. HAVE your pulled the GPU unit…

Yes the 90 to 100 seems about right. As I remember that is normal. You may get slightly different results by reversing your leads and/or letting it sit a day or so without AC input. Do you get 12 V when you punch the on button OR did we establish that you never get positive 12 Volts. Do you ever smell an burning ODOR when…

They're maybe read normally like 80 ohms as I remember. Let it stay unplugged for 5 minutes before checked to let the volts drain .

Check all of your voltage feeds to the chip for low ohmage. Unplug AC Plug, I think pins 49 to 52 on that chip.

Did you remove the old one to boot and establish the new as the boot drive ?

I'm not sure as what happening BUT you may try to power off or disconnect your router/modem until you get it set-up as I think that you will bypass all that Microsoft interference. Good Luck.

Not without a schematic You maybe can use a infrared thermometer or simply touch with your finger when power up. NOTE. Always unplug the computer from AC for like 5 minutes to reset any shutdown clamps that may be present, each time.

The main IC on the last picture has been very HOT Put your finger on it when you try to power ON but 1st reset the PS by unplugging from AC for 5 minutes after each try. You most likely can not find that chip or assembly plus you need a hot air unit to remove and replace. I have or had a Hakko hot air system BUT those…

Look in the UCP BIOS UPDATE SOP for Windows for instructions, it's located in the Appendix

For future reference, Amazon has it too for $7.99

Sometimes they're in a plastic bag in the shipping box. Also Amazon shows them. I searched on VS2720G Sata Cables If not call Acer Parts Store in your country.

Why don't you put your meter in the NON DIODE setting or reverse the leads ?? Use the resistance setting on your multimeter. Your meter should have a non-diode setting that won't light the LED. I have looked over your pictures of the MB and all I see is one of the 2 black plugs near the RAM slots looks like i's not plugged…