what CPU coolers are compatible with predator po3-620.

Viego03
Viego03 Member Posts: 12

Tinkerer

edited March 6 in Predator Desktops

Hi, wondering if anyone knows what CPU coolers are compatible with the po3-620. I have the i7 10th gen intel chip if that helps and the reason I am asking this because it has the acer original motherboard which makes this process a bit more concerning. Ideally, I would want an AiO cooler/liquid cooler but there is no way there is space for that in the compact case. So question here really is if anyone can link to alternative and compatible cpu coolers because the one that came with the PC is pretty doodoo.

[Edited the thread to add issue detail]

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Answers

  • puli
    puli Member Posts: 47 Devotee WiFi Icon
    edited March 31

    The acer website says the width of your computer is 175mm. That is probably the outside width so I cant know if this cooler i suggest will fit for sure but it might. This cooler is 155mm tall and it works with intel socket LGA 1200 (your i7 10th gen 10700 CPU). it is 34 USD without shipping and was reviewed favorably by reputable journalist gamers nexus on youtube. Here is the link to buy it and the video.

    the dimensions of the cooler are 155mm tall by 135mm wide by 125 mm long so you can see if it will fit in your case.

    Also, you can try to remove your current CPU cooler and clean the old paste off and replace it with new thermal paste and use THE SAME COOLER and that will probably make your CPU run cooler too.

  • StevenGen
    StevenGen ACE Posts: 12,515 Trailblazer

    Have a look at the Noctua range of cpu coolers as they are the best dry coolers going around and the quietest as allot of community members have used the NH-U12S chromax.black or the NH-U9S chromax.black on their Predator desktops, so measure your spaces around the cpu and to the ram and buy the appropriate cooler.

    Measure the cpu coolers overhang at the shown space below for the PO3-620 desktop, as the Noctua specs for the above cpu coolers has all the dimensions of their coolers so you can determine which cooler suits best.

    If this answers your question and solved your query please "Click on Yes" or "Click on Like" if you find my answer useful👍

  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 654 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon

    These two smaller ones from Noctua are very common upgrades and more than enough.

    • NH-U9S
    • NH-D9L

    If you want more options, you need to do a forum search.

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    So it does not matter what type of CPU or motherboard you have but rather the width of the case? I will definitely check those coolers out but if the width is enough then all of them should be compatible yes? Like I want to know for certain that if I buy cooler “x” it is going to be alright for me to install it. I thought it had something to do with CPU specs or motherboard stuff. Or can it perhaps have something to do with that LGA 1200 socket thing you were referring to?

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    edited March 7

    Thanks for the answers btw <3

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    Hi and thanks for the suggestions! But why are those coolers not pointing/facing the CPU?? Will this not cause the cooling to occur inside the case itself rather than specifically the CPU? And also if you could be so kind to answer how much space I need between the cooler and ram sticks or is it just enough as long as it fits? Thanks again for the suggestions :)

  • puli
    puli Member Posts: 47 Devotee WiFi Icon

    You need to make sure the cooler will physically fit inside the computer, AND you need to make sure it has the proper mounting hardware for your CPU socket. Your CPU socket is LGA1200, according to the specifications on the manufacturer website here: (scroll down to "Package Specifications" and under that section is "Socket supported")

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/199316/intel-core-i710700-processor-16m-cache-up-to-4-80-ghz/specifications.html

    if the cooler has both these things it should work for you.

  • William_mk2
    William_mk2 ACE Posts: 4,198 Pathfinder
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  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    Perfect! Thanks a lot was thinking about the rear fan as well. This post should save me some time!

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    Ok so if a description says that it supports the socket and it fits then it should be alright. Thank you!!!

  • WokeCthulhu
    WokeCthulhu Member Posts: 5

    Tinkerer

    None. Unless youre willing to remove the entire motherboard from the case and pry off the glued backplate. (which i did btw, have a Noctua NH-9dL on my N50-640, just a massive Pain to do…. solved my heat issues though)

  • WokeCthulhu
    WokeCthulhu Member Posts: 5

    Tinkerer

    You assume you have access to the backplate on the backside of the motherboard, which is also glued in place.

  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 654 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon

    Oh, dear! A simple forum search would have made your upgrade a lot easier.

    Here's one video in French where a young kid replaces the cooler without removing mobo or backplate. All that was needed was M3 screws.

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    hi all. Thanks for all the help. I went ahead and installed the noctua u9s and I have never seen my temp go over 69 degrees yet. At idle it is at 30-40 and gaming eafc (more heavier than you’d think on PC) on ultra all and it doesn’t go over 65. Only issue for now is the loud noise the fans make. Which I am thinking about switching to noctua nf a9 pwm. I highly recommend this upgrade for both noise and temp reasons. All that was needed was m3x12 screws which were hard to find but I managed. Never touched a pc in my life before and this was easy. Thanks again.

  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 654 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon

    Awesome! Most of the noise comes from the exhaust fan. I'd replace it first, and if the noise still bothers you, then the intake.

    The front panel can be removed after removing a few screws (headphone stand) and by pulling the front panel from the bottom.

    One thing you might want to do is to remove the whole HDD tray. That is, if you don't use HDDs. It just blocks airflow. The tray is attached by a few screws and rivets. Rivets must be drilled out and they are hidden under the front rubber foot.

    Below is an old pic of the case I modded a bit to make the airflow better. I cut the mesh with a Dremel and installed finger guards. As you can imagine, case airflow got a lot better compared to what it was originally. You can ignore the gaping hole on the roof. Adding a fan there didn't help that much with the temps.

  • Viego03
    Viego03 Member Posts: 12

    Tinkerer

    Hi thanks for the suggestion. One question though, is it absolutely necessary to remove the rivets under the rubber footing or is that just in case you want the hdd tray removed for better airflow? And when you did all these holes in the mesh were you using the fans that the case included or some other quality fans? Thanks.

  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 654 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon

    You need to drill the rivets only if you want to remove the HDD tray. I was after better cooling and making the box as silent as possible. My reasoning was simply: Less air friction ⇒ lower revs on the fan ⇒ less noise. The tray and mesh must go!

    There are some small holes here and there, but the intake fan is where most of the cool air gets into the case. That is, if you use glass panel instead of the metal one with tiny holes.

    I replaced my intake and exhaust fans with Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM fans. These are slimmer 14mm ones, but regular 25mm fans shold fit too.

    There are cheaper options available from other manufacturers than Noctua. Some are black and possibly have even RGB on them if that is your thing. Unfortunately I don't know if Acer's RGB header is proprietary or not, so all RGB fans may not work.