The acer website says the width of your computer is 175mm. That is probably the outside width so I cant know if this cooler i suggest will fit for sure but it might. This cooler is 155mm tall and it works with intel socket LGA 1200 (your i7 10th gen 10700 CPU). it is 34 USD without shipping and was reviewed favorably by reputable journalist gamers nexus on youtube. Here is the link to buy it and the video.

the dimensions of the cooler are 155mm tall by 135mm wide by 125 mm long so you can see if it will fit in your case.

Also, you can try to remove your current CPU cooler and clean the old paste off and replace it with new thermal paste and use THE SAME COOLER and that will probably make your CPU run cooler too.

These two smaller ones from Noctua are very common upgrades and more than enough.

• NH-U9S
• NH-D9L

If you want more options, you need to do a forum search.

You need to make sure the cooler will physically fit inside the computer, AND you need to make sure it has the proper mounting hardware for your CPU socket. Your CPU socket is LGA1200, according to the specifications on the manufacturer website here: (scroll down to "Package Specifications" and under that section is "Socket supported")

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/199316/intel-core-i710700-processor-16m-cache-up-to-4-80-ghz/specifications.html

if the cooler has both these things it should work for you.

None. Unless youre willing to remove the entire motherboard from the case and pry off the glued backplate. (which i did btw, have a Noctua NH-9dL on my N50-640, just a massive Pain to do…. solved my heat issues though)

Oh, dear! A simple forum search would have made your upgrade a lot easier.

Here's one video in French where a young kid replaces the cooler without removing mobo or backplate. All that was needed was M3 screws.

Awesome! Most of the noise comes from the exhaust fan. I'd replace it first, and if the noise still bothers you, then the intake.

The front panel can be removed after removing a few screws (headphone stand) and by pulling the front panel from the bottom.

One thing you might want to do is to remove the whole HDD tray. That is, if you don't use HDDs. It just blocks airflow. The tray is attached by a few screws and rivets. Rivets must be drilled out and they are hidden under the front rubber foot.

Below is an old pic of the case I modded a bit to make the airflow better. I cut the mesh with a Dremel and installed finger guards. As you can imagine, case airflow got a lot better compared to what it was originally. You can ignore the gaping hole on the roof. Adding a fan there didn't help that much with the temps.

You need to drill the rivets only if you want to remove the HDD tray. I was after better cooling and making the box as silent as possible. My reasoning was simply: Less air friction ⇒ lower revs on the fan ⇒ less noise. The tray and mesh must go!

There are some small holes here and there, but the intake fan is where most of the cool air gets into the case. That is, if you use glass panel instead of the metal one with tiny holes.

I replaced my intake and exhaust fans with Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM fans. These are slimmer 14mm ones, but regular 25mm fans shold fit too.

There are cheaper options available from other manufacturers than Noctua. Some are black and possibly have even RGB on them if that is your thing. Unfortunately I don't know if Acer's RGB header is proprietary or not, so all RGB fans may not work.