Does the Aspire TC-886 motherboard have PWM for CPU fan?

Larryodie

I would think that screws would be a better mount than a push-pin ? 
Are your old screws too short ? 
If so then take them to a hardware store and determine the size with their gauge die. Then add the length.

Larryodie

Remove the backplate as in this video. I still would prefer to use the screws for a much more solid mounting. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf18PhvFbBs

JackE

@ttttt

"Thinking inside the box" is just an expression used by some people to describe attaching heatsinks by traditional or standard ways.

"Thinking outside the box" means attaching heatsinks by non-traditional or non-standard  or proprietary ways that could be more efficient or easier to manufacture. Could be glues. Could be Velcro, Could be any other way that's not a standard way of attaching heatsinks.

That said, many users simply don't want to deal with the hassle of trying to make standard things fit in non-standard or non-tradtional or proprietary equipment.  

JackE

Larryodie

Looks good Larry. I'd even try that because it looks so easy to do. 

ttttt

@JackE

Still do not know how Velcor Dots can help in @chumbo's case.

@Larryodie
The video is a case of perfect fit CPU cooler.

I only have a TC-885 PC and no expereiences with the Acrtic Alpine 12 LP cooler to duplicatre the issue. Hope @chumbo's DIY can sort out the issue and report back.

chumbo

Larryodie said:

I would think that screws would be a better mount than a push-pin ? 
Are your old screws too short ? 
If so then take them to a hardware store and determine the size with their gauge die. Then add the length.

I'm not sure what you are getting at? 
Are suggesting I replace the push-pins on the cooler with screws? How would I even do that? Just rip/pry out the push-pins and...then what? The remaining hole would likely be too large for the screws anyway so...I don't understand?
I didn't understand the second part about the hardware store either but nevertheless, I don't know where you are but here in Belgium where I am, I don't know of any hardware store where I could bring screws to have their 'gauge die' measured (don't know what that even is btw).

As for the video...do you know for a fact that there is a backplate on the Acer MB or are you just guessing/presuming so? The photo I took of the screw was done with an endoscope which I also used to explore the thin space between the case and MB and although it was hard to see, I didn't notice anything like a backplate?
I think those screw fittings I showed on my previous photo are built in the case or MB and don't look to be removable 😒.

I certainly am in no mood to remove the MB as it would be a real PIA to do! Yes, maybe only a few screws but due to how space is managed inside the case, it would involve taking it apart completely, beyond just the few screws holding the MB to the case. I'm looking at possibly a good hour to remove and put it back and possibly for nothing so...I'm going to pass on that.

My next option is replacing only the fan which appears to be attached with 4 standard screws much like any other fan I've seen before but that's the thing...will Acer have another surprise up it's sleeve and reveal it doesn't take 'standard' fan screws!?
I dread and fear but I'm going to take the plunge and let you know.

The cooler is going to be sent back (amazon).

One quick question about fans....
Oddly, I notice that few manufacturers advertise fans as being for the CPU. Usually it will be sold as a cooler, i.e. a heatsink + fan combo but if I only want a fan, I see mostly case fans?
My guess is there is no difference between a case and CPU fan and that I should be able to easily replace the stock fan on the Acer cooler with a case fan...right?
If so, are there any specs I should take into consideration other than size (it's a 80 mm fan)?

Larryodie

Yes, I see your point on replacing the screws. But in the future, hardware stores should sell screws and have a thread gauge to measure the threads.
I still think their is a backplate per the Amazon Reviews.
My opinion is to get a unit that has the screws included. Those push pins are flimsy considering the vibration and heat. 

What's wrong with this unit ??

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-I71C-20PC-R1-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B07H1VZ11F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2CIAH4VP1ZO84&keywords=intel+air+cooler+with+screws&qid=1658757128&sprefix=intel+air+cooler+with+screws,aps,83&sr=8-3&th=1

chumbo

The Cooler Master you linked to has a backplate and as explained, I don't want to have to bother with removing the MB. 
But the idea of a cooler that uses simple screws might be worth trying...hoping again that Acer didn't go non-standard on the size of those screws!?

Larryodie

Just use what you have.
I saw several reviews that said that it screwed in to the existing nut holders but no mention of Brand or Model. On Amazon search the reviews on  "screw"

chumbo

Yes but too risky. I think I'll just set aside an hour and try to install the Arctic cooler since I still have it here with me. I'll go ahead and remove the MB and see how it goes from there.
Wish me luck 🙄

Larryodie

Good Luck. Just go slow. Take pictures or videos before you tear it down. I'm 81 years old and still able to fix electronics when asked as I had a TV repair shop for 45 years after a short career of fixing IBM mainframes in the and late 70's. They were monsters then. 

chumbo

Ok, thanks for your wise advice 

chumbo

So I took out the MB and as expected, Acer had another unpleasant surprise in making things difficult for customers.
There is a backplate but it cannot be removed! It's really two parts in one. There is the backplate for attaching the cooler and then the backplate of sorts for the CPU attachment.
And the two are basically one part. The cooler backplate is glued to the CPU 'backplate' which you of course cannot remove unless you're ready for some serious DIY butchery!
So I will be sending back the Arctic cooler and will be buy just a fan. Arctic recommended the P8 PWM PST which he said is best suited for CPU installation.

The fan installed by Acer is a Cooler Master FA09025H12LPB so at least that sounds pretty standard (although I couldn't find any detailed specs on it).

Larryodie

A small thin paint scraper will lift the two (3 panel pieces) off of the heat sink. Very easy.

chumbo

I didn't understand this? 
"...will lift the two (3 panel pieces)..." the two...what two? what are you talking about exactly? And "3 panel pieces"? Didn't understand that either?

All I can say is that I tried pretty hard to separate the black plastic backplate from the metal one...to no avail. The plastic was bending almost to breaking point so I stopped. It doesn't seem to me that a paint scraper would have made a difference?

JackE

07/07>>>I'm looking to replace the stock Intel CPU fan that comes with the Aspire TC-886 with a more silent and efficient one. >>>

07/27 >>>So I will be sending back the Arctic cooler and will be buy just a fan. Arctic recommended the P8 PWM PST which he said is best suited for CPU installation.>>>

After 3 weeks, you seem to have completed a full circle on this. Congratulations.

chumbo

JackE...yeah, depending on the responses and advice I got here in this thread, I have been changing my mind a lot, even more than what you pointed out. 
Also, now that you quote me, I realize I initially misspoke in my first post when I said I wanted to change the fan while in fact I meant the whole cooler. However, I was concerned about how the fan on that cooler would be performing and how compatible it would be with regard to PWM (to keep the noise down, as that was the whole reason of this thread).
This was immediately evident in my 2nd post where I speak of a cooler and no longer of a fan only.

Larryodie

If you have a hot air station then a few seconds of heat will melt the glue. DO NOT use a hot air gun as you have discrete components that are liable to melt away. But a thin paint scraper underneath will get the job done. Good Luck with whatever you do and I'll just watch your progress.

chumbo

Well, when I posted I had already remounted the whole PC so I really don't have the courage to do it all over again and attempt something that is not even guaranteed to work (for me, I have little doubt that with your experience, it would be easy for you) so I'll go with replacing the fan.
Thanks for the advice just the same!

chumbo

I changed the fan and I'm a little disappointed. It is definitely much quieter but...also less efficient. 
Although the PC was very silent before as long as I wasn't doing anything very intensive, what prompted me to want to change my fan/cooler was when I did some video conversion with Handbrake and there the fan speed started ramping up to a very annoying level.

So now the noise is way down (a very low-pitched and faint humming when under full CPU load) but the temperatures are a bit higher as well (higher average, spikes and takes longer to cool down).
Still, no regrets but I was hoping for a better performance. Since I had no option but to stay with a 80 mm fan, I guess I couldn't really hope for a drastic change.