Upgrade SSD on Acer Aspire E 11 ES1-111M-C40S.

peterjang78 Member Posts: 5 New User

I purchased Acer Aspire E 11 ES1-111M-C40S. Is there anyway to upgrade SSD from 32G to a bigger one?

Thank you.



  • sathya0403
    Thanks for posting here,. Yes you can its a regular SATA interface,.
  • peterjang78
    peterjang78 Member Posts: 5 New User

    Thank you for your reply, sathya0403.

    I opened the back cover I found the momory slot (I upgraded it to 8GB).

    But I was not able to find the current SSD location inside.


    Would you have any instruction or guide to replace the SSD?

    I appreciate for your help ahead of time.


  • peterjang78
    peterjang78 Member Posts: 5 New User

    Hi sathya0403,  

    I keep researching on this matter, and found the wonderful article on E11 ES1-111M "http://www.umpcportal.com/2014/11/acer-aspire-e11-es1-200-netbook-first-impressions-video/#comment-188727". It says " the header for the 2.5-inch drive bay has been removed" as attached the picture from article.


    Is there anyway to go further to install SSD or mSSD?


    Thank you for any comments.Acer-Aspire-E11-internal-_1_.jpg

  • nav2014
    nav2014 Member Posts: 7 New User



    What kind of RAM did you get and is it easy to upgrade the RAM from 2 GB to 8 gb. If you can write up some steps and post pictures of where and how to install, it will be much appreciated.

  • peterjang78
    peterjang78 Member Posts: 5 New User

    Hi Nav2014,


    The memory is:

    Kingston Technology 8GB 1600MHz DDR3L (PC3-12800) 1.35V Non-ECC CL11 SODIMM Intel Laptop Memory KVR16LS11/8.

    I bought it at Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQ35HBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    I got the hint on how-to from Youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoL3IXBTt4A


    Actually, I returned the Acer Aspire E 11 ES1-111M-C40S because the SSD cannot be installed additionally.


    I wish you enjoy it though.

  • nav2014
    nav2014 Member Posts: 7 New User

    Thanks for the info. I did see your posts on ucmportal site discussion regarding removing the Recovery partition. So you returned it eh...I have had this for a week now, another 3 to go before I decide if I keep this. RAM is $75 bucks and that slowly keeps increasing the cost. So far RAM has not been a problem for the viewing of videos purpose that I got this puppy for. The internal C drive free space is bothering me. I had 14.3 GB when I got it and now after a week it dropped to 9 GB even though I hardly installed 4 tiny programs. The C:\Users\username\AppData folder is chewing up space and according to the KB on Windows site, you should not delete anything from there.


    I have concluded that you cannot ge that 10 gb partition with Recovery files freeded up even after preparing a USB Recovery memory stick.


    Other than that, I like this cheap laptop so far to be use a a low cost HTPC.

  • peterjang78
    peterjang78 Member Posts: 5 New User

    Hi nav2014,


    It is good for you, but was not for me. 

    I needed at least 50 - 60G of free HD for my business trip.

    I wished this Acer has a little more room for my Quickbooks and other apps.

    Anyway other than that, it is quite a good notebook.


    Instead, I bought Lenovo Thinkpad X140e Ultrabook. It is a little expensive($80) and heavier than this Acer but has a 500G HD. I don't complain about it. I am just a happy guy.


    Just enjoy your Acer.


  • nonaak
    nonaak Member Posts: 1 New User

    i did the HDD mod. now 640GB HDD int this laptop.

    i use 4 capators (100nF) and a sata connektor. its working now :-)

    if you do this mod, the risk is yours not mine!!!


    look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=2&v=SVTVis7vK3Y

  • bhender2
    bhender2 Member Posts: 1 New User

    Where did you purchase the 4 capators (100nF) and a sata connektor?


  • razvanu
    razvanu Member Posts: 4 New User

    I also want to do the mod, I've found one conector on an old asus motherboard, hope it will fit.


    The capacitors are 100nF, smd type i guess, it was a link above


    I have another model, it's a ES11 ES1-131-C273, but I think are the same...


    sata pinouts.jpg



    sata connector.jpg

  • fredcee
    fredcee Member Posts: 1 New User

    I've got a SATA edge connector with pins and some 100nF caps (1.6mm * 0.8mm size) (both removed from an old SATA HD enclosure). I've already done a RAM upgrade, so I'm familiar with dis-assembly.


    A couple of questions tho:


    Firstly am I correct in thinking that the caps go on the underside of the board (as viewed when case is first opened), nearest to the data pins of the SATA connector?

    The caps I've got show values between 120 and 150nF. Am I correct in assuming they are just de-coupling, and will be fine for this?

    Finally, when the laptop is re-assembled, did you need to use anything to keep the drive in place - I notice there are some aluminium fins that sit about 2mm away from the edges of the drive. Would it be best to place some rubber pads on these to wedge the drive in place?


    One point for others to consider if attempting this, ACER seem to have modified the underside case plastic on my laptop, and have placed a raised section where the drive would go. I'll be removing this in order for the drive to actually fit. It looks quite easy to remove, but its important, as the case won't close properly if its left in place.


    I'll put another message in the forum when I've done the job, with pictures showing the various steps.

  • YDE
    YDE Member Posts: 3 New User

    Aspire e11 es1-111m-c7da SSD upgrade Y.Desfarges 31/05/2016

    Be aware you do this modification at your own risks. If you are not familiar with micro-electronic, not sure of how to do it, or if you do not have the right tools, DO NOT ATTEMPT to do it as you may damage you mother board (I saw some forum talks about drilling the holes to insert the connector! never do that as you may cut the internal layer links to the tracks) .

    My first idea was to use a right angle connector taken from a cheap IDE to Sata converter, which seemed to be a good idea, then I tried it but I ended up with the SSD not lined up (1-2 mm) with the motherboard so that when the SSD is plugged in, it would push up the mother board stressing it dangerously when its fixing screws are tighten (may brake ceramic caps) (Fig1).


    I know I could have been using a Sata connector with top mount but the problem would have been the same opposite side of the motherboard, the SSD being too high in its location.

    As I did not find the correct “offset” right angled connector for this type of mounting, I decided to go for a straight edge connector, never mind if not designed for through hole mounting as I used pieces of wire to go through the holes and soldered them to the pins. The good thing is that the pins are alternate top/bottom so that the resulting pitch between pins on one side is 2.54mm making it easier to solder.

    The other concern was about those “4 missing capacitors”, which appeared to be in fact coupling capacitors to reject DC voltage in case of long distance connections like using external cables . As we are here fully inside the PC with direct connections to mother board, there is no real need for those capacitors and they can be replaced by jumpers to allow the RX and TX pairs to be connected (Fig 7).

    Personally, I used very thin soldering iron, solder pump, desoldering wick, binoculars, Polyimide Kapton Tape and micro wire 30AWG 0.05mm² to do it. The pads for the 4 missing capacitors are 0402 size which is very small ! beware of short circuits and orientations! and do not shake like a leaf! Not to mention to clean up the pcb before and after soldering for a good job using alcohol or cleaning spray with brush.

    You can find the Sata edge connector on the web for cheap on Alichinese if you are not in a hurry, as for me I got it from local Amazcom for a few euros in a SDD USB3 enclosure within a few days (Fig 2):


    I removed the connector using a solder pump and desoldering wick.

    Then I put a strip of Polyimide Kapton Tape on the edge of the motherboard on both sides because as it seems to be designed for a right angle connector, the pins are not supposed to lay on the edge, I noticed there is a copper track with connecting vias on the motherboard in this area. As my connector pins may scratch some varnish or silk screen paint while positioning it, it is best to avoid short circuit underneath the pins anyway.

    Then I positioned the connector correctly for the pins to be lined up with the holes and I secured the connector on the mother board using hot melt adhesive, so that it is not free to move anymore. Be very careful not to overheat components around, do not use welding torch! At worse use soldering iron but at low temp (Fig 3).


    Then, I inserted in each hole, one at a time, pieces of wire long enough to reach the pins. Soldered, cut short the wire. Did all on one side first, and other side afterwards (Fig 4).


    Here is a drawing of how the pins are linked to the motherboard. Only one side is shown, the other side is the same but alternate (Fig 5-6):



    The SSD in place in the PC (Fig 8-9):


    The SSD is then lined up with motherboard:


    The PC cover needs to be modified to leave room for the SSD. Simply break the partitions with pliers as follows (Fig 10-11):



    Then, I used thin cardboard piece around the SSD as I had no mounting tray for it, just to wedge it in place because it is rather loose. I bent the cardboard all around and make it overlay a bit on top. When the cover is back in place, the SSD may not move anymore (Fig 12-13).



    That all and it works…SSD recognized straight at boot up on a Linux Ubuntu. I just had to format and mount the partition using Gparted to be able to use it for data and kept the full 32Gb emmc for system. 120Gb SSD 53€ + connector 10€ + accessory 10€ + time spent = worth doing it !


    If I had to use 4 capacitors instead of the jumpers, I would have chosen 10nF as we can find in manufacturer’s application notes of Sata drivers.

    If anybody finds the correct “offset” right angle Sata connector, please post !


  • iiee
    iiee Member Posts: 1 New User

    Very nice and thank you for a detailed description with pics. Might try the mod try myself.


    BTW: Could you use the sata (SSD) drive also for the system partition or only for data?

  • YDE
    YDE Member Posts: 3 New User

    Hi iiee,

    Actually, I did not try to install the system on the Sata SSD, because it was already on the emmc and because 32GB is enough for linux. I can not see why it would not be possible...

    Good luck if you do the mod and remember that if you find an offset connector it would be easier.


  • Member Posts: 4 New User

    Not sure if this is of interest to all. I have a acer es1-131 which also came with 32 GB eMMC. Good enough for Lubuntu Linux, but using external HDD for files was always a pain... Since I found this thread and youtube video [1] I thought of modding mine as well.

    Disclaimer: Please do it; think of it as a learning experience. Have fun but please do not blame others.


    As you know by now soldering the SATA port is perhaps pain - may kill your motherboard if done wrongly. So I was thinking of adding HDD a easier way. After a bit of searching I found this RAIDSONIC USB housing [2] to be very slim (think it was 10 mm). Now the idea was simple, just solder the USB 2.0 interface on the USB port of motherboard. Disssemble the USB/SATA housing - it was plastic. Just open it using a toothpick.




    Now remove old cable from the USB-SATA adapter. Solder some thin wires. Solder to motherboard. Remove the screws for the WLAN card and central screw near the (absent)motherboard SATA port. Then you can gently slide the mini-PCB of the USB-SATA connector under the motherboard. (YES, do it gently). See pics.


    You need to break the plastic partitions in the back cover (see image 10 in previous mod)..  do not put that central screw. Since I used a conventional 2.5 HDD I needed to slide the USB-SATA connector under the motherboard. If you use a SSD, and it is slim it should easily slide below without any stress on the motherboard.

     Of course, I lost the USB2.0 port. But hey, there is still another USB3.0 port available.



    Let me know your comments.




    Solder new cables. sorry for blurry image. My good old Moto E is not the best in camera!





     Zoom of the sliding under motherboard.





    [1] www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVTVis7vK3Y

    [2] www.raidsonic.de/products/adapter_multidocking/hdd_ssd_adapter/IB-AC603/pdf/datasheet_ib-ac603_sarl.pdf

  • devaughnte
    devaughnte Member Posts: 1 New User

    Hello i just got this pc and i am really upset that it is faulty ive always told everybody go buy an acer its a good quality brand but i am disapointed that the laptop i got for school is hardly functioning propperly eg. keyboard glitching. Trackpad not working sometimes plz respond to me please


    [edited for privacy-please do not post personal or unique information such as but not limited to full names, email addresses, phone numbers, full serial numbers, etc.]

  • Member Posts: 4 New User

    With such a basic/slow CPU, this is NOT designed for school. Since I formatted and installed linux, I have NO idea about tons of ***** ware from MS/acer. here are your options:

    1. Get a laptop with better CPU. Even for a better laptop, please do step (2)

    2. Reinstall windows 10 fresh download from microsoft.com (NOT recovery)

    3. Install Linux

    4. Try Chrome OS derivative -> Cloudready. www.neverware.com Everything is synchronised to google-cloud.


    I am not affiliated with anyone, so this is not any advertisment.

  • Spitfire
    Spitfire Member Posts: 3 New User


    Congratulations your success.

    I finally added a 240GB SSD but I couldn't install Windows 8.1 with error message of 0x80300024. Can you share your experience of installing OS on the added HDD or SSD to ES1-111M-C40S?

  • Member Posts: 4 New User

    No idea about win8.1 As I said I use Linux. Perhaps remove the SSD. Install windows in eMMC; then reattach the SSD as DATA partition.

  • kan
    kan Member Posts: 1 New User

    Hi, just throwing this out there as maybe thinner alternative to a normal SSD that you used.


    once the port is soldered onto the motherboard normally with out any fancy wiring it may be an option to look into MSATA cards vs SSD SATA drives.


    Smaller thinner format only 3 to 4mm tall and an adapter such as this: a SATA to MSATA adapter  https://www.startech.com/ca/Cables/Drive/Micro-SATA/Micro-SATA-to-SATA-Adapter-Cable-with-Power~MCSATAADAP  probably has a lot of plastic on the top and botton that can be sanded down carefully to make it thinner to fit into the case with out touching the wires inside.  the MSATA's are a little bit pricier but it just might make it an easier option than your soldering job you did for others to do this as well.  


    **woops wrong adapter**


    If anyone attempts the above route might be best to purchase the sata to msata adapter first and sand it down to see if its indeed possible to get it thin enough.



    a third option would be to look into M2 SATA  (NOT M2 PCIE!!!!) cards and sata to M2 adapters as well seeing if any are thinner than 7mm when combined with a m2 card.


    yet another option is to remove the SSD from its case and put something in there to insulate the ssd so you dont get a bad bend happening due to the offset difference.