NEW RAM NOT WORKING FULLY

egydiocoelho said:

@ctx1769 there is another possibility: some chipsets do not accept the ddr3 and ddr3L rams to work together. Ideally, it should send some screenshots of the rams memories settings, using the cpuz program.

aphanic said:

Let's see, don't worry and just keep calm

DDR3L is kind of a low voltage version of DDR3, it is pin-compatible with DDR3 (which means that you can put DDR3L where DDR3 is). Because it was meant to be compatible, all DDR3L modules support working at either 1.35v or 1.5v. The problem is not the voltage but something else.

The amount available issue has already been sorted I believe, to be able to use more than 4 GB of RAM you need to be using a 64-bit version of the operating system (in practice). So you did well by replacing your 32-bit Windows 7 installation.

The issue I see here has to do with the RAM frequency. I went into some detail in a thread I'll link you to in the end but basically your processor, the i3 330M, along with the chosen chipset by the manufacturer, determines the kind of RAM you can use.

Let's take a look at the specs of the 330M:



It reads there that it likes DDR3 either at 800 or 1066 MHz and from what you have posted your original RAM was 1066 MHz so that's good. The new is rated at 1600 MHz, which is more than what the processor and memory controller expect, but it is not the only frequency it can run at. It can run at lower frequencies as well, for example, take a look at the following picture of the RAM stick I have installed in my machine:



It's a different kind of memory (and you should think of those frequency numbers as half of what it is stated in the RAM sticks, the first D of DDR stands for double). The point is, that even though it is designed to be run at 2666 MHz, it can also run at 2400, 2133 and 1866 MHz. Well, the same thing happens to the RAM you bought, it is rated at 1600 but it has profiles to be run at lower speeds if the memory controller doesn't support 1600.

There's a catch though, they generally don't specify the profiles they embedded in the RAM, much less the timings of it at other speeds other than the one advertised.

But all of that is automatic, you don't have to do a thing, you just plug the memory in and they (processor, memory controller, etc.) agree on how it's going to work.

That's only half of the story though, that is when the module is alone. When there are more than 1 stick, not only they both need to be able to run at the same speed, but they need to do it at the same time so to speak. In that same screenshot, it is represented by the columns to the right of the frequency one: CAS (you may see this marked as CL in the stick), RCD, RC and RAS are the main ones.

That is where the problem may stem in my opinion, maybe, just maybe, even though the new stick is able to run at 1066 MHz which is what the processor expects it doesn't match the timings of the other stick and they don't work together.

I'd like you to run a test of sorts:

• Plug in only the new module.
• Upon powering your laptop press F2 repeatedly until you get to a bluish screen, there ought to be an information tab in there.
• Look for something along the lines of "Total memory" and tell us the number, then shut down your machine. You can repeat the operation with different configurations if you'd like, but I'm just curious if the machine is able to work with the new chip for now.

If that firmware configuration utility (kind of the heart of the thing) is able to see and recognize its size correctly, it means that the RAM chip works on your computer. We will not know at which timings, or speed yet, because we can't access Windows for now; but we'll know it's compatible. Reinstalling Windows could help you run the utilities you need if the BIOS is happy with just that chip, let us know if you needed assistance for that too.

If you heard some beeps upon powering up, or the number written in there was different or just plain 0 then the chip is not compatible with your machine (i.e. there's no way for it to run at 800 or 1066 MHz) and you'd have to return it, which being Amazon I bet there'd be no problem.

To delve more into the matter here's the thread I talked about earlier, but feel free to ask any doubts you may have: https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/608352/guide-how-to-find-out-if-you-can-upgrade-the-ram-and-which-one-you-need

aphanic said:

Sure, if/when you're able to access Windows we'd like to know information on the RAM chips themselves. There are 3 programs that display the kinds of things that are interesting, one is CPU-Z, and we'd be interested in the Memory and SPD tabs. 

aphanic said:

Don't worry, I have activated the option to be notified of new replies in topics I write to because it gets crazy following them otherwise.

From what I see here, both your older chips are running at 1066 MHz CL7, their primary timings are 7-7-7-20. That the new stick doesn't work tells me it isn't really compatible with your system, for some reason, because generally you can exchange RAM sticks without Windows crashing.

I think I would return that stick and find another, where are you based on? I mean, which Amazon are you using? I just checked in the Spanish one and there are still lots of DDR3 (L or not) at 1066 MHz and they even sell them in packs! Which is always preferable, getting a 2x 4GB pack for example, you'd end up with 8 GB of RAM and you'd know it works.

Search for "DDR3 1066 SODIMM", without the L, and you should be golden, I even saw some modules that are CL7 as well, just like the ones you have at that frequency.

aphanic said:

Voltage is standard depending on the RAM type, so yep, you can forget about that. DDR3 which is what you had works at 1.5v and DDR3L works at both 1.5v or 1.35v.

Frequency is important though, because your processor is the one setting the limit to 1066 MHz max. I just checked Amazon India and you're right, the supply of DDR3-1066 is somewhat limited over there , if you want to use any of your current modules as well the timings need to match, that's the problem, we're not going to know those timing numbers at frequencies lower than advertised until the chip is plugged in.

Out of the two you mentioned, I think I would get the first one and try my luck, see if that works. It's fulfilled by so it uses their logistics network and the memory chips in that "Simmtronics" seem to by made by Hynix as well which was the brand of the second link. Plus it's cheaper.

Another option would be eBay, there seem to be plenty of sellers over there, from China though so time of delivery wouldn't be as quick, selling even matching kits of RAM at 1066 MHz of different brands. But if they don't work returning those may be complicated...

aphanic said:

You're correct, the first number must be the same, but they only advertise the number for the main frequency, for the others they won't say it. So you can't trust that CL11 of the Simmtronics because that's the CAS latency at 1333 MHz, and your laptop will run that memory at 1066 MHz max. The latency is bound to be smaller, hell it could very well be 7 and it would play nice with the ones you have.

That's why when I upgrade the RAM of machines that have more than 1 slot I just discard whatever the machine has, sell that on eBay for example and get matching sticks, those sold in pairs. No headaches for me about timings and I'm guaranteed they work together for sure.

Maybe they're then incompatible with my machine for whatever other reason, but timing-wise, they're a perfect match.

And yes, I understand the relationship between India and China isn't at its best right now . Let's hope that module works at least! Even if you had to take out all of the other modules at least you would have increased your RAM to 4 GB.