Acer v3-571g keyboard keys not working

NokkoNokko Member Posts: 2 New User
edited March 2018 in Legacy Windows
Hello guys,please Help me,i Have an old Acer v3-571g and some keys are nor working.
For example keys S D M G and H aren't working.If I plug an external keyboard IT works just fine.
I Tried cleaning it,reinstalling drivers and nothing.I dont know why but when i play CS GO it stops working again.
Please Help,my dad is angry

FAQ & Answers

  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    Key contacts often get dirty and corroded with age. This is normal wear & tear. For less than $20 with free shipping, it's best to replace it with a new one. Google "v3-571G" "replacement keyboard". Jack E/NJ  
    Jack E/NJ
  • macromarcomacromarco Member Posts: 1 New User
    JackE said:
    Key contacts often get dirty and corroded with age. This is normal wear & tear. For less than $20 with free shipping, it's best to replace it with a new one. Google "v3-571G" "replacement keyboard". Jack E/NJ  
    I'm also in need of a new keyboard since I'm having the same problem on some different keys.
    I have been planning on just pulling it a part, but I'd rather get my hands on a new keyboard if possible
  • JeffreyLevineJeffreyLevine Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer

    I have the same problem with certain keys (5) not working  on an Acer Aspire Laptop Model V3-575T.   This problem started ALL AT ONCE on multiple keys, and for no apparent reason.  One day, they worked.  The next day they didn't.  Are you telling me that this is the result of all five of these keys getting "dirty and corroded with age" at the same time??!!!!   And that there was no point in time that they worked intermittently... but quit working totally, all at once.   Sorry, but this makes no sense.  Is there something else that these particular keys all have in common?    
    The keys that are not working are:  
    1. vertical bars and backslash key in Row 4
    2. the M/m key in Row 2
    3. The right-hand Shift key in Row 2 
    4. The "Fn-Volume Up/Up Arrow Key  in Row 1.5  
    5. The "Dot/Del" key in the embedded number pad in Row 1
    I will replace the keyboard if I can have some assurance that this will fix the problem.   Based on the information provided (That every one of these keys got "dirty and corroded with age" simultaneously) is insufficient to justify this. 
    (BTW...  I'm typing this on an external keyboard, which works fine.) 
    Thanks.   
  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    JeffreyLevine>>>Are you telling me that this is the result of all five of these keys getting "dirty and corroded with age" at the same time??!!!! >>>

    Yep. Often happens in sustained higher heat/humidity either with individual keys or the KB/mainboard connector. The latter being a somewhat easier fix simply by re-seating the connector several times to help clean it. However, before you try anything, you should first uninstall the KB driver from Device Manager. Then exit without re-installing anything. Then reboot and let Windows auto re-install the driver. If still no joy, you can check ControlPanel for an automatic update restore point that might've caused the problem. If still nothing, then it's time to pop the bottom cover and try reseating the KB/mainboard connector. Jack E/NJ



    Jack E/NJ
  • JeffreyLevineJeffreyLevine Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer

    Thanks to https://community.acer.com/en/profile/JackE for your helpful reply.  I've already tried all the other proposed fixes, and will try re-seating the KB/Keyboard main connector.   Oops...   Ha-ha....   I guess I never clicked the "Post Comment" button.   In any case, I'm now ready for an update:  

    What you described as "pop[ping] off the bottom cover" was a bit more difficult than those few syllables would suggest.  
    Being unable to find a video, or any other instructions for my specific model, I tried to follow the general procedure shown for other similar models.  
    The 18 machine screws came out easily, but the bottom cover did not just "pop off" at that point.  There were two obstructions:   the audio jack in the lower left corner, and the CD-ROM drive on the upper right.  Maybe I could have slid the CD-ROM out,....  but I didn't know for sure what to do.  I managed to pry the cover over the audio jack, but the other side, around the CD-ROM was considerably more obstinate.  I eventually used what my former Engineering Mechanics professor (Dr. Hu) referred to as "brutal force", and eventually it came free, with only minor damage to the case.  Unfortunately, three connectors (shown in the picture below) fell free.  I DON'T KNOW WHERE THEY CAME FROM OR WHETHER THEY NEED TO BE REINSTALLED SOMEHOW.   Fortunately, none of the case actually cracked, although I think I was lucky in that regard.   

    Once inside, I had to try to determine which cable connections to try to reseat.  Once again, I didn't have a specific photo or diagram for my model, but based on a diagram I found online for a similar model of Acer Aspire, I guessed that the ribbon cable in the lower left of the mother board (see picture) was the one to focus on.  I don't know if any others could be targeted as well.   I have a set of DeOxit contact cleaners in tiny vials, and tried the ones for "Gold" connectors, as well as for general connectors....  Inserted and removed the connector several times....  but this ultimately provided no benefit whatsoever.  The same problem as before still continues.   

    I'm uploading some pictures below showing my computer.  The first just highlights the keys that are not functioning.  The second shows the three UMCs  "Unidentified Mystery Connectors".  The last two show what I believe is the ribbon connector to the keyboard.     

    I'm presently using my computer with the bottom cover removed, with an external USB keyboard.  I didn't want to re-assemble it if I'm going to try replacing the keyboard.   I have the following questions at this point:  
    1. Given the failure of cleaning the cable connection to correct the problem, would the next step be to try replacing the keyboard, and just "hope" that this fixes the problem?   (I'm not anxious to go "stabbing in the dark", but I don't know what else might be at fault.)  
    2. Where might I find better, more detailed instructions, both for removing & reinstalling the bottom cover, as well as for removing and re-installing the keyboard?  (I suppose I could just take everything apart...  but some instructions would be nice.)  
    3. Can anyone identify the mystery connectors that came off?   
    Thanks very much for your help.  







  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    edited July 2019
    The plastic parts that popped/broke off are probably because the DVD should've been slipped out before removing the bottom cover.  It was held in there by a single screw on top of the DVD. Breaking plastic catches and other case parts is par for the course in trying to get these crammed laptops apart. :)
     
    Once the bottom cover is off (specs say 21 screws), then for your disassembly inconvenience, the palmrest/touchpad must be "pried" off starting on the right side and its mainboard cable connector(covered with messy sticky tape) removed from its backside.  
    Then a single screw affixing the KB to the mainboard must be removed. This *should* allow you to lift the KB to access its sticky-taped connector to the mainboard without breaking too many more plastic parts. Jack E/NJ







    Jack E/NJ
  • egydiocoelhoegydiocoelho ACE Posts: 80,040 Trailblazer
    This video will definitely help you better:

    Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
    Se você gostou da minha resposta, marque como solução clicando em sim! If you liked my answer, mark it as a solution by clicking on yes!
    Aceite somente a resposta que ajudou a solucionar o seu problema! Please accept only the response that helped to solve your problem!
    Detection tool click here to find the serial number or partnumber of your model!                                                          

               
      egydiocoelho Trailblazer
     
    ProductKey clique aqui para descobrir o serial do windows! click here to discover the windows serial!
    Para usuários da comunidade inglesa, espanhola, francesa e alemã, usarei o google tradutor! :)
    For users of the English, Spanish, French and German community, I will be using google translator! :) 
  • JeffreyLevineJeffreyLevine Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer

    REPLY:  CURRENT & POSSIBLY FINAL DISPOSITION:   UNSOLVED 

    Thanks to JackE and  egydiocoelho for your replies.   Both were helpful in their own way.  The original problem, however, has not been solved:  the five keys indicated in the picture above still do not work, and unless I am able to get some reassurances that replacing the keyboard will fix the problem, I will not attempt this repair, as a) the keyboard replacement would be VERY difficult and time consuming, b) I still do not have good instructions how to do this repair, and c) I still have less than 50% confidence that replacing the keyboard will fix the problem.    

    IMPORTANT:  I found a discussion in Acer Community for my EXACT model of Acer Aspire V3-575T-7008, and it sounds like a really messy problem to fix. (See the final answer by Leendo (https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/545163/keyboard-replacement-acer-aspire-v3-575t-7008)   I've decided not to fix it, but to use an external keyboard instead, which kinda pisses me off, because the MAIN REASON I retired my previous (Samsung) laptop which I really liked, and bought this one was because ONE KEY went bad on the keyboard, and the keyboard was reportedly a very difficult to replace.  Otherwise it worked well (FULL DISCLOSURE:  It was Windows 7....  which I was perfectly happy with, but is no longer supported).   

    The reply by JackE indicated there were a total of 21 machine screws holding the bottom cover in place.  Three of them, however, are not visible until the optical drive is removed.  These were the three "Mystery Connectors" I referred to.  When added to the 18 that I removed properly, this accounts for all 21 listed in the specs.   Thus, each of the three parts shown in my picture above consisted of the male threaded machine screw still screwed into the female threaded base, which was supposed to remain in the cover, but which I tore out when I applied "brutal force".  I was able to repair this by separating the screw from the base, by grabbing the female part (as Donald Trump might do with impunity, but in my case using a long-nose pliers), and then turning out the machine screws with a precision phillips head screwdriver.  Then, I reinstalled the female part in the plastic housing using "superglue", which worked fine.   

    The rest of the information provided by JackE was less valuable, because my keyboard cover comes as a single panel, not a split panel (touch pad/palm rest & keyboard) as shown .   There are other videos showing replacement of two-part top panels  (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywBj7wFPxZA) which is for an Acer Aspire V3-771G).   The video is funny because it begins by "accidentally" spilling a glass of beer on the keyboard, and then provides a video-within-a-video to provide the fix; however, this keyboard can be replaced "from above"....  which seems much easier than for my model. There are other videos for similar keyboard design (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsQCChilIRg    

    The video link provided by  egydiocoelho, even if in Russian, indeed "helped me better" with the basic disassembly and reassembly of an Acer Aspire with a single top panel like mine, including prying apart the top and bottom using a guitar pick, just as João Gilberto :'( might have used, if he were not using his fingers alone.  (NOTE: When reassembling the case, fitting the lower left corner over the audio jack is still tricky.  I recommend inserting one jaw of a long-nose pliers into the jack, then squeeze gently against the cover to snap it back into place.)   However, this video did not continue the disassembly to the point of removing the keyboard, and there are a great many more steps involved, so unfortunately, I can't list it as providing a "Solution".   

    By the way, the ribbon cable that I guessed might be for the keyboard is actually for the display.  The keyboard cable is on the other side of the mother board.  (I really should have seen this.  Sorry for the error.)   I did remove the keyboard connector, and all the other connectors, and cleaned using DeOxit, but still without success.   

    The only video I have found that shows complete removal of the keyboard for an Acer Aspire with a one-piece top panel like mine is this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKpbg0ZNEpQ), but it's still not for my exact model.   It has no narration or instructions, other than pointing.   Due to the "portrait" orientation of the camera, some steps occur outside of the frame of view.   This video is enough to make it apparent, however, that it would be a lot of work, would involve some cost (Not much, though), but with no guarantee of success, and the possibility of causing more harm. 

    So that's it.  I now have a pretty good laptop that works with an external keyboard.  I now know how to easily replace my 1 TB HDD with a SSD, if I want, or how to upgrade from  8 GB to 16 GB of RAM.    DO YOU HAVE ANY RECOMMENDATIONS IN THIS REGARD?  

    Thanks again for your suggestions.  



       
  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    Sorry for the hassle. I've found that sometimes the bad keys can be temporarily salvaged in place by massaging under the keycovers with a faceblush brush while blasting them with canned air to remove hygroscopic debris/crumbs, then moving the laptop to a less humid environment for a day or so.  I was able to salvage all the bad keys on mine except the right arrow/brightness key for almost a year till the hot humid weather returned. Then I finally replaced it. I saw that same integrated KB replacement video made by the fellow who spilled the beer on it. Seemed like a lot of work replacing only the KB by melting and remelting the plastic tabs. Jack E/NJ  
    Jack E/NJ
  • JeffreyLevineJeffreyLevine Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer

    Thanks to https://community.acer.com/en/profile/JackE for your helpful reply.  I've already tried all the other proposed fixes, and will try reseating the KB/Keyboard main connector.   
    Will update after I've tried it.   
  • I've got and continually had/have these problem also, with the OEM V3-571G keyboard! Its absolutely the strangest and worst keyboard setup/driver and functionality that I've ever experienced in over 30 years of working and using computers! 

    I replaced the OEM keyboard with an exact copy none OEM (which is an exact quality and copy of the OEM) and I'm still having the same problems, as the OEM, its not that any specific key doesn't work, its that the keyboard activates the 'highlighting' (for no apparent reason) and all of a sudden, while typing, it highlights an area and automatically, that area is deleted (as it happens so quickly that touching any key while typing) deletes the highlighted sentence and/or areas that I'm trying to either type and/or work on, its very strange!

    Is there any solution to this problem? As I've replaced the keyboard and while doing that, I've completely opened and taken apart this laptop, I've cleaned it, I've repasted the GPU and CPU, heat sinks, I've changed the CPU fan, I've checked all the contacts of the keyboard to the motherboard and its insulation, I've checked the clear film that protects the keyboard from touching the motherboard, which was completely fine and there was no apparent melting of the film and/or touching of any components of the keyboard with the motherboard. 

    Btw and as far as the known extreme heat in this laptop and its inadequate CPU and GPU cooling, I'm using both a 'Laptop USB Cooler Pad' and a 'Vacuum USB Laptop Extraction Cooler Fan' which btw, keeps the GPU at between 45c to a max of 75c (while playing all games that the GeForce GT640M can handle) and the CPU (which I've changed from OEM i7-3610QM) to an i7-3920XM (which works perfectly and doesn't overheat at all) and its temp range is between 55c to a max of 85c (I've also drilled extra holes in the bottom chassis for more venting, especially around the CPU and GPU) so heat is not a problem. I've also tried the 'Device Manager' deletes and reinstall of the 'standard PS/2 Keyboard' but it hasn't done anything, is there another driver to this keyboards instead of the 'Microsoft driver version 10.0.18362.1 dated 20/06/2006'? Does anybody have other solutions and/or suggestions? Thank you! 
  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    >>>is there another driver to this keyboards instead of the 'Microsoft driver version 10.0.18362.1 dated 20/06/2006>>>

    Yes. Microsoft driver version 10.0.10586.0 dated 06/21/2006 or maybe it's 21/06/2006 in your date notation. There are plenty more versions. But all are WinXP era KB drivers that seem to be on all WinVista, Win7, Win8.x and Win10 machines. Do you think KB hardware has changed that much since 2006 that newer drivers would fix these KB issues?  :)   Jack E/NJ  
    Jack E/NJ
  • JackE said:
    >>>is there another driver to this keyboards instead of the 'Microsoft driver version 10.0.18362.1 dated 20/06/2006>>>

    Yes. Microsoft driver version 10.0.10586.0 dated 06/21/2006 or maybe it's 21/06/2006 in your date notation. There are plenty more versions. But all are WinXP era KB drivers that seem to be on all WinVista, Win7, Win8.x and Win10 machines. Do you think KB hardware has changed that much since 2006 that newer drivers would fix these KB issues?  :)   Jack E/NJ   

    I don't know JackE? That is why I'm asking as this keyboard issues is a very strange one, I've never ever experienced this sort of a messy behavioural keyboard and its specifics to the V3-561G as everyone is complaining about it. Very strange? I'll try to sole this and post a solution to this messy issue(s), thanks for your reply!=) 

  • JeffreyLevineJeffreyLevine Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer

    I have nothing new to report here, but will just reply to the more recent comments.  The five keys that quit working still are not working.  I'm using an external keyboard it plugs into one of the USB ports. It works fine and I'm happy with it. It does make the computer less portable than it was before, but frankly, 95% of the time, I'm using it as a desktop anyway.  
         I did get a multi-outlet USB port to provide more ports than the three that were installed in the original unit, and that's working fine.  Sorry, that's the best I can offer. 
  • JackEJackE ACE Posts: 31,090 Trailblazer
    Thanks for your comments JeffreyLevine . Jack E/NJ
    Jack E/NJ
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