JackE said:

OK. I suspect the problem is related to the Samsung drive operating in iRST with optane SATA mode. Might've worked OK in Win10 but apparently not well in Win11. Probably should be changed to the standard, more reliable AHCI mode but there is some risk in losing data if not done correctly.

You have 3 choices.

(1) Live with the intermittent freezing until future MicrosoftWin11 and AcerWin11 and Intel boot mode updates hopefully fix the problem --- a good possibility but hard to predict when

(2) Back up your personal information and perform an ACER OEM factory Win10 system reset from the hidden Acer recovery partition. This should return the system to a factory fresh Win10 system state as when you first acquired the machine.This is a long process since all the Win10 updates would then have to be re-applied up to and including the latest Win10 updates

(3) Change the Samsung from iRST with optane to AHCI mode operation in Win11. This has to be carefully done via Win11 SafeBoot mode to try to avoid corrupting the drive.

If it was mine, I'd probably go for #3 as it's probably the quickest way to try to resolve the issue. Furthermore, AHCI mode seems to have less sensitivity to major operating system changes. But it's not mine. So you have to make the decision and we can help walk you thru whichever you want to do. 

.

Hi, I have the same problem as the user. Regarding your recommended solution of #3.

Can you elaborate on or point me in the direction of instructions of how to do such a thing? Since you said "corrupting the drive", is this something that I should just not do because I don't want a high possibility of bricking my laptop because it's generally vital for my work and personal life.

JackE said:

TopHat17

Basically you start out by making sure Windows is set to boot into Safe Mode only.  Then you enter the BIOS menu by tapping F2 on startup. Some of the newer BIOS you have to press Ctrl+S in the BIOS MAIN tab to reveal  a VMD contoller option and change it to disabled. F10 to save settings and exit to boot into Safe Mode again. This should automatically install the AHCI  sata mode driver. Then you can change Windows  back from safe boot to normal boot. Changing from iRST or VMD sata mode to AHCI also carries a risk of losing access to or disabling the hidden ACER factory reset partition.

When I went into BIOs after setting into Safe Boot only, I didn't have a VMD controller option. I was hitting Crtl+S and it didn't do it anything.

I however had the certain options that seemed to connect to the topic, which are attached via some pictures I took of my monitor. I noticed the SATA Mode option if I select it gave me 3 options which involved talking about RST and AHCI which sounds like what you were talking about. I didn't change anything yet though because wanted to double check with you first.

Should I swap it to AHCI then boot into safe mode like that?

I have the same laptop model (315-52) in this thread, though my BIOs is currently at the latest available via the Acer Drivers (v1.12) which I updated in an earlier vain attempt to try and solve this problem, though that caused a separate issue making all my CPU cores running at max turbo power mode (and making my idle CPU temps skyrocket from 48-55 to 55-70, and I had to search for another solution which involved setting Max Processor Power load to 99% which fixed that.

Hey there. HAL here… …Good morning Dave…

I have a slightly older model Predator, and I've experienced the same thing you are describing, even while NOT gaming, though it has occured while gaming once or twice. I've had this problem more than once, but the error codes can be very different with each itteration. First, you need to check the config of the drive placement physically in the machine. If you have more than one slot and they are both full, you want the main drive closer to the outside, with plenty of ventilation behind it. That means no heat spreaders on the drive underneath unless paper thin. It does sound a bit like an overheat for your problem, and the optane engine can have some issues relating to caching and multichanneling with some drives, this is not new or even uncommon. You need to get a card specifically designed for that engine in order for it to work, and that means $$$$. Most gaming drives are capable of using standardized AHCI for faster throughput without extra code. I know it's fun to try and pull every microsecond of response you can, but that just isn't feasible in smaller form factors. Pick one advanced part that you believe in, go with that as the extra response and the rest, go standard, you'll see longer life and often enough, better overall performance, but without all the excessive benchtesting to weed out the problems in compatibility. AHCI is a host-client-controller interface. The optane engine is coded differently in how the drive talks with the board and vice versa, but is still just an AHCI engine. I doubt it's your problem, but it might be.

I suspect that your issue may be similar to one I faced back when I upgraded the first time, which was not easy to find, but easy enough to fix. I just had a repeat and redid the fix, along with a quick check of ssd spacing and a swap of the two disks in the slots. Theres a plastic-rubber block on the inside of the small plate over the ssd\RAM\Disk area. This block must impact a small "button" on the mobo when you put the panel back on, and must have a fairly consistent pressure, for the system to function normally. Otherwise, the disks don't boot. It's an older "tamper-resistance" thing that was originally part of the secure-boot 0.8 standard that isn't required these days, but many gaming laptops are built from old board layouts with new chipsets, which still use the darned thing. You can usually slide the block off a little, then take some thermal spreading gummy stuff that you can get on amazon or newegg, cut small strips of the thinnest you can find, and stick them under the block, against the plastic panel\cover, and then make sure you push the panel on carefully but fully. This may stop those pesky BSOD. If not… Maybe heat is the issue, and go back to AHCI standard for disk controllers.

That said, there are two ways to shorten your pathway. First, you'll want to image the drive out to a backup, but this can have problems if you bsod over and over, so you'll want one of the following programs to help you: Hirens BOOT USB, Disk Genius, Paragon Hard Disk Manager, Acronis TrueImage, DiskDrill. Any of those have a BOOTABLE USB creation mechanism. Next, you want to get your hands on an enclosure for your SSD, so you can run it externally if needed. You may want 2 of them if you buy another ssd to hold a bootable copy of your system. Hirens boot can be booted from usb, and can be used to dupelicate one disk of ssd to another, or HDD to HDD but most of the tools are freeware and will not be capable of going from SSD to HDD or vice versa. Once you have a bootable copy of your system, you must look up the registry code for your AHCI, then put that into your registry, save and shut down completely. Then boot and immediately press the function key for your UEFI\BIOS, switch the mode, save and reboot. If your system will not boot normally, you could always use your backup copy, and your imaging software boot usb to get it back.

I've also found that having a copy of Laplink PCMOVER is usually a good idea. You pay for each full move. If you seriously want to kind of… …start over? Follow this path: First you'll want to download the windows media creator, and get a current image of the windows installer for your system. You'll want to go to the acer website and download any drivers you see there for your model, and then you can put them into the bootable installer. Once you are finished, you have options. If you are still experiencing many BSOD, you are better off using a bootable rescue USB to duplicate your disk out to an external first. Then you can go into your BIOS\UEFI and set the AHCI mode, and then run the windows installer to format the internal disk and install windows. Once that finishes, most of your drivers will be functional, but if there are newer ones (as in my case, for the graphics card there is a different set of drivers from nvidia that function better, and there are drivers from intel for my i7 cpu graphics —I try not to use intel graphics for much but whatever you do with this is up to you). Once drivers and OS are happy and no BSOD, download PCMover and put in your key then have it move directly from your duplicated system disk, and pick and choose what you want (profiles can be moved easier if they are local only, but that doesn't mean you absolutely have to, and if you are in the cloud mostly for docs, don't move those, you'll get those back when you login to your cloud from your new system; pick your programs etc, and any loose files you want, then tell PCMover where to put them; finally, begin the move. It should take about an hour and ten minutes for a few hundred gigs of system, and I use it in offices that upgrade PC's regularly—I have a technician license so I can buy the move license a little cheaper; no I'm not a salesperson, I just use this stuff and I know it works.

So there you are. I hope all this helps.