AN715-51-75N8 Laptop CPU overheats incredibly quickly and crashes as soon as plugged in.

Ja_Ba
Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

Tinkerer

edited November 2022 in Nitro Gaming

Hi there,


So this issue started about a month ago but I have largely avoided solving it as I have had other commitments. I first thought my laptop (specs included in photos) needed to be repasted (Which it did as repasting it lowered average temps by a lot). But temps will go from 40c idle unplugged to 90-95c idle IN UNDER A MINUTE of plugging it in (I'll include a photo of this)!!! It's insane.. If I keep using it on these temps it will eventually just freeze and I'll have to hard reset it (video of it crashing: https://youtube.com/shorts/AzKEwsOZ2wc?feature=share). As soon as I unplug it from power temps will begin falling back down to 50-60c. I did a malware check and it was clear too so no crypto stuff as far as I know. In the minitoolbox.txt there might be some ideas to what is causing the crashes but idk anymore...

So my main question is: What is causing my laptop to overheat and crash soon after I plug it in?!

I included lots of other information and specs and stuff in the photos but if anything else is needed please ask! :) THANK YOU!!!!


[Edited the thread title to update model name & issue in detail]

Best Answer

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer
    edited November 2022 Answer ✓

    Those seem to be copper tubes or ducts on the opposite side of the fan thermal module. The fan compartment heat exchanger on the right is connected to these tubes. So it's likely liquid cooled which cools better but is unfortunately more fragile than an open air system. Because the CPU/GPU heats up so quickly, I suspect a leak and the freon-like coolant is gone. Sorry, the module should be replaced if you want to keep using the machine's full power capability. Otherwise you risk frying the processors. It is usually sold as a complete module with fans. Google part no. "24.Q5HN2.001" for vendors who ship to your location. About $90usd



    Jack E/NJ

Answers

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    Plugging it in usually boosts default CPU power plan performance and makes the CPU fully available for whatever program or app is trying to use it full bore.

    Try this. Open Task Manager processes tab on battery alone. Then plug the charger in to try to identify which process(es) is causing it. Also try turning on NitroSense coolboost. CPU fan speed should increase to over 5000rpm at those temps.

    Jack E/NJ

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    Plugging it in usually boosts default CPU power plan performance and makes the CPU fully available for whatever program or app is trying to use it full bore.

    Try this. Open Task Manager processes tab on battery alone. Then plug the charger in to try to identify which process(es) is causing it. Also try turning on NitroSense coolboost. CPU fan speed should increase to over 5000rpm at those temps.

    Jack E/NJ

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Hey mate,


    It doesn't really seem like any processes are causing it to occur. Even the ram usage and CPU usage doesn't increase much compared to how much the CPU temperature increases.


    Like is it normal for CPU usage to be at 2% and for CPU temps to be 65C?

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    >>>Like is it normal for CPU usage to be at 2% and for CPU temps to be 65C?>>>

    No. Abnormal. Should be mid-50s or less at idle usage. This model might be liquid-cooled. When you re-pasted, did you notice if the tubes from the fan compartments to the CPU & GPU were sealed? There also would've been heat exchangers in the fan compartment if sealed.


    Jack E/NJ

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    I'm confused on what you mean by sealed or open tubes.. I'm assuming you mean are the tubes connected to the fan or separate. I know when I lifted the fans up the tubes also came up but I did not try to separate them so I'm unsure. Is there anyway to confirm without opening up the fan compartment? I've attached a photo of the tubes if that explains it for you.



    Thanks for your help thus far.

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    Two types of cooling.

    The old type is simple air cooling. Cool outside air gets sucked in by the fans. Then pushed through the tubes and exiting directly over the CPU and GPU.

    The newer type is liquid-cooled. The tubes are sealed with a coolant inside. Convective flow carries heated CPU & GPU coolant to the fan compartment where heat exchangers (similar to CPU/GPU heatsinks only in the fan compartment) cool it down and returns flow in a convection loop back to the CPU & GPU heatsinks.

    I can't tell from your photo or the specsheet photo or the part nos if they are open air tubes or sealed tubes. If they're open air, they might be clogged with dust bunnies that can be vacuumed or blown out. However if they're sealed tubes, they might have developed a coolant leak from vibrations or mechanical stress during re-pasting --- requiring replacement.

    Jack E/NJ

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Ah okay, thanks for explaining that so nicely.

    I can open it up and take a photo of the fan compartment so you can tell which it is if that would help :)

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    I've just opened it up now so I'll attach a photo of the fan compartment for you.

    Thanks :)

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer
    edited November 2022 Answer ✓

    Those seem to be copper tubes or ducts on the opposite side of the fan thermal module. The fan compartment heat exchanger on the right is connected to these tubes. So it's likely liquid cooled which cools better but is unfortunately more fragile than an open air system. Because the CPU/GPU heats up so quickly, I suspect a leak and the freon-like coolant is gone. Sorry, the module should be replaced if you want to keep using the machine's full power capability. Otherwise you risk frying the processors. It is usually sold as a complete module with fans. Google part no. "24.Q5HN2.001" for vendors who ship to your location. About $90usd



    Jack E/NJ

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    ***** man your knowledge is admirable as hell!

    Thank you so much for helping me with this, I will look into getting a replacement and let you know how it goes to update the thread in case anyone else runs into the same problem.

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    OK. Thanks. Good luck.

    Jack E/NJ

  • Ja_Ba
    Ja_Ba Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Hi, is it too late to bring this thread back to life? - I don't think this is the issue anymore...


    I left it for ages, waiting for the part to arrive which could take months.


    Recently I opened it back up and its now crashing without getting hot at all.. I don't think the heat is the primary cause of the crashes merely an additional influence.


    I've been trying to reset it but unfortunately it keeps getting stuck though this is beyond my point.


    For some reason, after a failed reset the laptop is now displayed as a Predator PH315-52 which is definitely not what I was sold (AN715-51-75N8).


    I'm wondering if this is the problem, some faulty software or something..


    I'm just wondering if I manage to hard reset it (wipe all data) could this fix this issue?


    Thanks in advance greatly!

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,891 Trailblazer

    >>>>For some reason, after a failed reset the laptop is now displayed as a Predator PH315-52 which is definitely not what I was sold (AN715-51-75N8).>>>


    Did you do the ALT+F10 cold boot reset as shown in this video?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GleJNW3VTEs

    Jack E/NJ