PO3-620 PSU upgrade

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messer89
messer89 Member Posts: 54 Devotee WiFi Icon
edited February 2022 in Predator Desktops
I've been using the stock PSU although it was emitting that quiet clicking sound (Common thing, many users reported that on this forum, not a serious problem I believe, apparently it is a manufacturing defect), but two days ago it literally SPARKED when I turned on the PC, so I decided enough is enough, I'm not gonna get my components burned. I wanted something stronger to have a power reserve for possible future upgrades so I bought Seasonic Focus FX 1000 (1000W), ridiculously overpowered but that was the only one model small enough to fit the PO3 case without the necessity of removing the disc holder, I bought it cause it was available in my local store and it was pretty cheap.

The problem is, everything fits perfectly but the PSU has 24pin mobo connection and the PO3 mobo has 6pin or something (My fault, I didn't check it before).

So - Can I do something with it or I have to return this PSU?

I'll be grateful for a response.

Best Answers

  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,779 Trailblazer
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    Yes, that 24 pin connector has a lot of junk on it that's not needed with the new motherboards. You want to choose a PSU that provides only +12V from a single rail internal to the PSU. The six pin connector has two pins each for +12V and ground, plus a PSU enable and it's associated ground. The four pin connector has just two each +12V and ground. Some motherboards (like the one you have on your PO3-620) have another four pin connector with the same layout as the first one. The Seasonic site doesn't show any 12VO PSUs, so it's up to the user to decide if they want to try one by building an adapter cable to go between the 24 pin and the 6 pin to only pull +12V and the enable...
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 617 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon
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    Now that you already bought a new PSU the easiest way to get things working again would be to buy a new motherboard and possibly a new case.

    A normal mobo will cause some problems with your power switch and front I/O. At least the power switch can be made to function again, because I remember seeing posts about this. Those front USBs need more tinkering. Below is just an example. What you need (USB type, length of the cable, how easy it is to mount to the case etc.) depends on your new mobo:

    Dual Port USB 3.0 Female to Motherboard 20pin Header Cable

    The good thing about a new motherboard is that most likely you will be able to run your RAM at faster speed, although the difference in performance is not that big.

    If you also get a new case, which I recommend, I have only good things to say about Fractal Design's Meshify 2 cases. They are bit pricey, but you can keep using it for years to come just like your new PSU.

Answers

  • messer89
    messer89 Member Posts: 54 Devotee WiFi Icon
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    UPDATE:
    This is not exactly my mobo but it's very similar. It has two separate 4pin connectors and one 6pin connector. My PSU cable looks like this. I've been looking for adapters, but there are mostly "24pin to 8pin", not what I need :((


  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,779 Trailblazer
    Answer ✓
    Options
    Yes, that 24 pin connector has a lot of junk on it that's not needed with the new motherboards. You want to choose a PSU that provides only +12V from a single rail internal to the PSU. The six pin connector has two pins each for +12V and ground, plus a PSU enable and it's associated ground. The four pin connector has just two each +12V and ground. Some motherboards (like the one you have on your PO3-620) have another four pin connector with the same layout as the first one. The Seasonic site doesn't show any 12VO PSUs, so it's up to the user to decide if they want to try one by building an adapter cable to go between the 24 pin and the 6 pin to only pull +12V and the enable...
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • GotBanned
    GotBanned Member Posts: 617 Seasoned Specialist WiFi Icon
    Answer ✓
    Options
    Now that you already bought a new PSU the easiest way to get things working again would be to buy a new motherboard and possibly a new case.

    A normal mobo will cause some problems with your power switch and front I/O. At least the power switch can be made to function again, because I remember seeing posts about this. Those front USBs need more tinkering. Below is just an example. What you need (USB type, length of the cable, how easy it is to mount to the case etc.) depends on your new mobo:

    Dual Port USB 3.0 Female to Motherboard 20pin Header Cable

    The good thing about a new motherboard is that most likely you will be able to run your RAM at faster speed, although the difference in performance is not that big.

    If you also get a new case, which I recommend, I have only good things to say about Fractal Design's Meshify 2 cases. They are bit pricey, but you can keep using it for years to come just like your new PSU.
  • messer89
    messer89 Member Posts: 54 Devotee WiFi Icon
    edited February 2022
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    Thanks for answers, that was pretty helpful.

    I brought the original PSU to the PC repair service and a day after they called me and told there was a problem with some cable that got torn out from the PCB inside of the PSU and they can fix it, most likely I broke it accidentally when installing a new SSD and doing cable management. It also turned out the Original PSU isn't that bad, cause it has the Japanese 105C capacitors.

    I decided to return Seasonic - I got your point of view GotBanned, but I didn't buy this PC to replace almost all components after a year, if they ain't broken.

    I also asked guys in the service if they can build an adapter for Seasonic for me billsey, but after an inspection we found out the PSU cable is 28pin, not 24pin, and they prefer not to risk with it, cause no one did this before.

    To sum up - much of confusion and lost time, but the problem is finally solved.
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,779 Trailblazer
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    I am surprised the connector was 28 pin, I don't think I've ever seen that before. Almost all the older style PSUs use a 24 pin ATX connector. Just doing an adapter cable to bring out the +12V and PS Enable might not work well with some PSU designs. You really want all the +12V to be in the same rail internally or else you won't be able to get enough amperage and some PSU designs expect a draw on the +5V to fully trigger the rest of the voltages. With a single rail design and no requirement for a threshold current on +5V or 3.3V an adapter ought to work.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • messer89
    messer89 Member Posts: 54 Devotee WiFi Icon
    edited February 2022
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    billsey said:
    I am surprised the connector was 28 pin, I don't think I've ever seen that before. 
    Same thing I heard from the service technicians, yet we counted it really carefully and it was 28pin.

    They said there are different adapters, even they could build one for me on their own but only for 24pin PSU, cause "they prefer not to risk with something neither they nor anyone else have never done before."

    So Idk, as for now my original PSU is fixed (I just picked it up from the service and installed in my PC), maybe if one day I'll have to upgrade it I need to remmember to search for a 24pin or 2x4+6pin PSU if it's possible.

    By the way have you ever seen a PSU with 2x4pin for CPU and 6pin for mainboard? It would be the best for PO3-620 and -630, cause no need for any adapters.

    I'll look for one, If I find something I'll write about it here.

    EDIT: I've found for example such 24 pin to 6 pin adapter, but where to plug the white connector? It reportedly works for Hp, but will it work for Acer?
    https://www.amazon.com/COMeap-Power-Adapter-Workstation-12-inch/dp/B06XW7RWNH
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,779 Trailblazer
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    It looks like that one, with the additional 4 pin +12V connectors that come with most supplies, would work. The white connector would be left disconnected, it looks like it's only used on some HP systems and the wire colors don't make sense for a 12VO design.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.