Guide to replacing the stock cooler on PO3-630

CatalystCanada

I know all of this information exists across a number of threads but I didn't find one that laid it out clearly enough and I made a bunch of mistakes. So I thought I'd share exactly what I did to get rid of the stock cooler that comes with this system using the existing backplate and without removing the motherboard.

So here's what I did:

1. Bought a Noctua NH-D9L cooler

2. Bought four 3mm x 10mm screws and lock washers. (Do not try to use 3mm computer screws as they are too short to reach the backplate posts below the spacers. Computer stand off screws are 3mm and 6mm long. They are also not long enough to reach the posts on the backplate.

3. Remove the old cooler and thermal paste

4. Place the black spacers provided by Noctua over the existing posts.

5. Screw the mounting plates (threaded side up) on top of the spacers using your 3mmx10mm screws with lock washer. Be sure to orient the plates so that the cooler fan will blow front to back.

6. Apply included thermal past to chip.

7. Install the cooler and fan according to included instructions.

8. Marvel at the decrease in noise and CPU temps.

My results:

Before:

75 degrees CPU temp at idle

100 degrees CPU temp at full load (at least until it starts throlttling which is almost immediately)

Loud af nearly all the time

After:

45 degrees CPU temp at idle

71 degrees at full load with no thermal throttling (still throttles when the 3070 is working hard due to an underpowered PSU IMO)

Almost silent at idle and medium load and much quiter under full load

messer89

The PSU isn't underpowered, look here, I have counted the max. power draw. And if your cpu throttles, you may find sollutions there.

How much ram do you have and on what speed does it work? If you have i7 and for example only 16gb ram on 2400Mhz, then the ram may be the bottleneck for cpu. 

Idk how exactly does it work in benchmarks but sometimes I use programs like game installators without the max. ram usage limiter and my cpu after cooler replacement works on 90-100% and 70-75 celsius with no throttling, and i have i7 10700f, that consumes max. even up to 200W.

ReforgedSoul

CatalystCanada said:

I know all of this information exists across a number of threads but I didn't find one that laid it out clearly enough and I made a bunch of mistakes. So I thought I'd share exactly what I did to get rid of the stock cooler that comes with this system using the existing backplate and without removing the motherboard.

So here's what I did:

1. Bought a Noctua NH-D9L cooler

2. Bought four 3mm x 10mm screws and lock washers. (Do not try to use 3mm computer screws as they are too short to reach the backplate posts below the spacers. Computer stand off screws are 3mm and 6mm long. They are also not long enough to reach the posts on the backplate.

3. Remove the old cooler and thermal paste

4. Place the black spacers provided by Noctua over the existing posts.

5. Screw the mounting plates (threaded side up) on top of the spacers using your 3mmx10mm screws with lock washer. Be sure to orient the plates so that the cooler fan will blow front to back.

6. Apply included thermal past to chip.

7. Install the cooler and fan according to included instructions.

8. Marvel at the decrease in noise and CPU temps.

My results:

Before:

75 degrees CPU temp at idle

100 degrees CPU temp at full load (at least until it starts throlttling which is almost immediately)

Loud af nearly all the time

After:

45 degrees CPU temp at idle

71 degrees at full load with no thermal throttling (still throttles when the 3070 is working hard due to an underpowered PSU IMO)

Almost silent at idle and medium load and much quiter under full load

Could you link the screws you used?

Wekfinn

Thank you for this info!

MMJT

CatalystCanada said:

I know all of this information exists across a number of threads but I didn't find one that laid it out clearly enough and I made a bunch of mistakes. So I thought I'd share exactly what I did to get rid of the stock cooler that comes with this system using the existing backplate and without removing the motherboard.

So here's what I did:

1. Bought a Noctua NH-D9L cooler

2. Bought four 3mm x 10mm screws and lock washers. (Do not try to use 3mm computer screws as they are too short to reach the backplate posts below the spacers. Computer stand off screws are 3mm and 6mm long. They are also not long enough to reach the posts on the backplate.

3. Remove the old cooler and thermal paste

4. Place the black spacers provided by Noctua over the existing posts.

5. Screw the mounting plates (threaded side up) on top of the spacers using your 3mmx10mm screws with lock washer. Be sure to orient the plates so that the cooler fan will blow front to back.

6. Apply included thermal past to chip.

7. Install the cooler and fan according to included instructions.

8. Marvel at the decrease in noise and CPU temps.

My results:

Before:

75 degrees CPU temp at idle

100 degrees CPU temp at full load (at least until it starts throlttling which is almost immediately)

Loud af nearly all the time

After:

45 degrees CPU temp at idle

71 degrees at full load with no thermal throttling (still throttles when the 3070 is working hard due to an underpowered PSU IMO)

Almost silent at idle and medium load and much quiter under full load

I just created an account so that I could, firstly, thank the OP for this (cheers, mate, absolutely spot-on) and to, secondly, drop in links to the exact things I used to upgrade my daughter's Predator 3000 which had become quite noisy and hot when running RDR2 and even Rainbow 6.

The cooler:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D9L-Premium-Cooler-NF-A9/dp/B00PIPCFX2

The screws:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/10mm-Phillips-Head-Machine-Screws/dp/B08DZGFN31?th=1

The star lock washers: (bought a box of different sized ones)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Internal-Stainless-Starlock-Fasteners-Assortment/dp/B09FPJ2VND/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3HJS7RWOUSNOX&keywords=3mm+10mm+star+lock+washers&qid=1655666673&s=diy&sprefix=3mm+10mm+star+lock+washers,diy,84&sr=1-10


Just pay attention to the installation instructions that come with the cooler. You don't need to do the part at the beginning of the NOCTUA instructions about fixing the backplate, though, as with OPs setup you can use the posts which are already there after removing the stock cooler and not worry about what would otherwise be an absolutely pain-in-the-bum to deal with if you had to access the rear of the mobo.

I can confirm that this upgrade is brilliant and really does make a massive improvement to the Predator 3000 performance under load.

Thanks again OP!

V4n0n

Are the washers absolutely necessary?

Unrighteouss

Hello,

Found this page and thought I'd finally give upgrading the CPU cooler on this machine a shot. All I've done up until now is change GPUs and RAM (and even that could pose issues at times).

I was very hesitant, but hearing that I could do this without taking out the motherboard really motivated me (along with the horrendous noise/throttling and the anxiety that I'm wrecking my CPU).

I just wanted to give thanks.

I bought the Black Noctua NH-D9., I didn't follow the steps exactly, I kind of cut some corners, and I was a bit confused at times, but the results are fantastic.

I used to get 70-80c at idle, and 90-100c when gaming (obviously throttled as my performance would tank at close to 100c). Now I'm getting ~40c at idle and quickly testing Elden Ring I was at ~60c. I haven't tested all that much, but it's already so much cooler, and so much quieter.

I fastened the cooler in the jankiest way possible (didn't wait for the 3x10mm screws in the mail and just used parts that came with the cooler), but it seems pretty solid, and it's working great!

Thanks!

billsey

Make sure you replace those screws when they come in. It's will stay solid and you won't have to worry about anything rattling loose.