Aspire T3-715 Is it necessary or a MUST to jump clear the CMOS for replacing CR2032 ??

Kuen

Acer Aspire T3-715

The PC is dead.  One of the many possibilities that cause the problem is the CR2032 bad or dead.
I plan to replace the battery.
Some say that it is necessary to jump clear the CMOS since the system is already having serious problems.
Others say, simple take the used one out and put the new in.
Which is the right way of replacing the battery, please??

William_mk2

Kuen

You can simply take the used one out and put the new one in.. 

Kindly go through the details from the link given below for reference purpose 

https://www.makeuseof.com/computer-battery-dead-how-fix-replace-cmos/

Kuen

William_mk2 said:

Kuen

You can simply take the used one out and put the new one in.. 

Kindly go through the details from the link given below for reference purpose 

https://www.makeuseof.com/computer-battery-dead-how-fix-replace-cmos/

Thank you.

Yes, I read the entire instructions on how to replacing the CMOS battery.  There is no where "short clear CMOS" is mentioned.
Yes, I believe this is how the CR2032 is changed if there is no troublesome issue already happened to the PC.
It seems to me that to short clear the CMOS is probably for the PCs already having serious issues.

What do you think, please?

billsey

The Clear CMOS jumper is only used when the CMOS data is so corrupted that it completely blocks the boot process. When you replace the CMOS battery, if you let the system sit with power disconnected and the battery out for a while, the CMOS data will be cleared anyway. It looks like the T3-715 models must have first shipped somewhere between 2015 and 2017, since the oldest drivers are dated 2015 and the newer ones 2017. If 2015 then a CMOS battery is just on the edge of the normal life expectancy, if 2017 it's early. Has that machine sat for significant periods of time pith power fully disconnected? CMOS batteries are only used when the machine is powered down... Normally though a dead CMOS battery presents as a system that boots up with the clock set to January 1st 1970, not to a dead machine. What symptoms are you actually seeing? Do the fans spin up when you turn power on? Do you get any beeps from the motherboard? Does the Acer splash screen appear?

Kuen

billsey said:

The Clear CMOS jumper is only used when the CMOS data is so corrupted that it completely blocks the boot process. When you replace the CMOS battery, if you let the system sit with power disconnected and the battery out for a while, the CMOS data will be cleared anyway. It looks like the T3-715 models must have first shipped somewhere between 2015 and 2017, since the oldest drivers are dated 2015 and the newer ones 2017. If 2015 then a CMOS battery is just on the edge of the normal life expectancy, if 2017 it's early. Has that machine sat for significant periods of time pith power fully disconnected? CMOS batteries are only used when the machine is powered down... Normally though a dead CMOS battery presents as a system that boots up with the clock set to January 1st 1970, not to a dead machine. What symptoms are you actually seeing? Do the fans spin up when you turn power on? Do you get any beeps from the motherboard? Does the Acer splash screen appear?

Thank you.  

with power disconnected and the battery out for a while, the CMOS data will be cleared anyway."

Yes.  This is the method I'll adopt to clear the CMOS.

But I'm still confused.  Someone told me the four pins are in fact two sets of jumpers.  The pair closer to the CR2032 is the jumper for CMOS.  To my knowledge, jumper is consist of three pins, say 1 2 3.  The jumper, the cap, is normally on pin 1 & pin 2.  Move the jumper to pin 2 & pin 3 to perform a jump.  There CMOS jumper on the of my PC is a pair of pins, only 2 pins.  How to perform a jump?

"Has that machine sat for significant periods of time pith power fully disconnected?"

The machine in deed sat idle for several months but not with power disconnected.  We have a few machines at home.  I like to use the one with Windows 7. Because of this personal bias I usually use two different PCs, one with Windows 7 and one with Windows 10. Windows 10 machine is used only for editing my photographic files.

"with the clock set to January 1st 1970,"

No, I never saw any incorrect time on this PC.  I usually edit my photographic files in the morning, and prior to this, I always watch NBC news first when the PC was turned on.  I, therefore, check the time every morning and there was and still is no clock in the room except the time on the PC.

"What symptoms are you actually seeing?"

What I actually saw was this:

I was going to re-install Windows 10 that morning.  I watched the PC's behaviors closely when I had it power on.  Around 5 to 6 seconds after power on, monitor was lit and acer logo came on and booing stopped here.  I did not know at first that it got stuck. Then, after a while, I realized the freeze.  

"Do the fans spin up when you turn power on?"

Now, the situation is like this:

1. The start button can switch the power on.

2. There is no beep signal.

3. There is a "poo" sound from the speakers when power on.

4. The light in front panel is on when power on.

5. CPU fan, GPU fan & PSU fan spin when power on.

6. Monitor & acer logo came on about 3 second after power on.

7. The start button can switch the power off. 

"Do you get any beeps from the motherboard?"

Now, there has been 2 occasions I hear a continuing beep.

One, when both RAM & GPU are removed from the slots.

Second, when only RAM is removed from its slot.

Have not heard any other beep signal no matter what I do.

"Does the Acer splash screen appear?"

What Acer splash screen?

Have

Larryodie

with the clock set to January 1st 1970,"

No, I never saw any incorrect time on this PC.  I usually edit my photographic files in the morning, and prior to this, I always watch NBC news first when the PC was turned on.  I, therefore, check the time every morning and there was and still is no clock in the room except the time on the PC.

If you reset or pull the battery then the clock and day would reset. I'd leave the battery overnight with the computer unplugged to let all the condensers drain. 

Easwar

Hi @Kuen,

Contact acer tech support,

https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/service-contact

billsey

The Acer splash screen is that logo you see on your monitor. Since it shows up we know something about how far the system gets before running into an issue. The sequence is something like this:

• You press the power button, it tells the startup circuit on the motherboard to turn on the power supply, which powers up the fans and the rest of the stuff on the motherboard.
• When the power gets to the rest of the motherboard it initializes the CPU and the first bit of memory, then loads the BIOS and executes the first commands.
• The BIOS runs a test on the memory as the start of POST (Power On Self Test), then initializes the video and displays the Acer splash screen.
• The rest of POST happens, testing everything else important to make sure everything is ready for normal use. This includes the drives, ports, etc...
• When POST is complete it loads the EFI portion of the BIOS off the drive, which initializes the file systems and looks for boot information.
• If there's only one OS to boot it starts the boot process. If there is more than one it either starts the process with the default or asks the user which OS to boot.
• It then starts to load the OS off the system partition.

Now, you are obviously failing somewhere in that process. You get the splash screen, so you are at least into POST. You aren't getting error messages on the screen or diagnostic beeps, so likely POST is completing. You don't get an error message saying no OS was found, so likely the EFI is loading and choosing the OS. That means the failure is most likely in the OS load. That could be a corrupted boot menu entry, a bad disk or issues with the Windows loader files. Can you get into the BIOS?

Kuen

Larryodie said:

with the clock set to January 1st 1970,"

No, I never saw any incorrect time on this PC.  I usually edit my photographic files in the morning, and prior to this, I always watch NBC news first when the PC was turned on.  I, therefore, check the time every morning and there was and still is no clock in the room except the time on the PC.

If you reset or pull the battery then the clock and day would reset. I'd leave the battery overnight with the computer unplugged to let all the condensers drain. 

Thank you. " I'd leave the battery overnight with the computer unplugged to let all the condensers drain." OK. The battery is taken out & all the cables are disconnected. The battery will be re-installed tomorrow. See what will happen.

Kuen

billsey said:

The Acer splash screen is that logo you see on your monitor. Since it shows up we know something about how far the system gets before running into an issue. The sequence is something like this:

• You press the power button, it tells the startup circuit on the motherboard to turn on the power supply, which powers up the fans and the rest of the stuff on the motherboard.
• When the power gets to the rest of the motherboard it initializes the CPU and the first bit of memory, then loads the BIOS and executes the first commands.
• The BIOS runs a test on the memory as the start of POST (Power On Self Test), then initializes the video and displays the Acer splash screen.
• The rest of POST happens, testing everything else important to make sure everything is ready for normal use. This includes the drives, ports, etc...
• When POST is complete it loads the EFI portion of the BIOS off the drive, which initializes the file systems and looks for boot information.
• If there's only one OS to boot it starts the boot process. If there is more than one it either starts the process with the default or asks the user which OS to boot.
• It then starts to load the OS off the system partition.

Now, you are obviously failing somewhere in that process. You get the splash screen, so you are at least into POST. You aren't getting error messages on the screen or diagnostic beeps, so likely POST is completing. You don't get an error message saying no OS was found, so likely the EFI is loading and choosing the OS. That means the failure is most likely in the OS load. That could be a corrupted boot menu entry, a bad disk or issues with the Windows loader files. Can you get into the BIOS?

Thank you. "

The Acer splash screen is that logo you see on your monitor"
Yes. The "acer" logo displays and the booting freezes right here at the same time as the logo shows.

 "... the failure is most likely in the OS load. That could be a corrupted boot menu entry, a bad disk or issues with the Windows loader files."
Another SSD with same OS is borrowed from another PC, a normally running PC, of the same brand & model, and has been tried on my PC. It makes no, not any difference.

 " Can you get into the BIOS?"
All USB ports are dead. Keyboard & mouse of this PC are linked to USB ports. Cannot get into BIOS by keyboard.
Tried to get into BIOS by disconnecting SSD & SATA & then power on. No luck. It did not make any difference.

billsey

I am afraid it is sounding more and more like the motherboard has failed.

Kuen

Larryodie said:

with the clock set to January 1st 1970,"

No, I never saw any incorrect time on this PC.  I usually edit my photographic files in the morning, and prior to this, I always watch NBC news first when the PC was turned on.  I, therefore, check the time every morning and there was and still is no clock in the room except the time on the PC.

If you reset or pull the battery then the clock and day would reset. I'd leave the battery overnight with the computer unplugged to let all the condensers drain. 

Thank you.

" leave the battery overnight with the computer unplugged to let all the condensers drain. "
Did this for 13 hours & it did not make any difference at all.

Kuen

billsey said:

I am afraid it is sounding more and more like the motherboard has failed.

Thank you.

Anyway for a common home user without tools & devices to find out whether the motherboard is in fact failed?

Larryodie

A cheap volt/ohm meter would help as you can check the DC Volts out of the PSU and leakage of the on/off switch as you say that it is coming on by itself even disconnecting  wire off the switch. 
Also a sub hard drive unit would help or switch the hard drive to a working unit. 

Larryodie

Subbing a power supply unit is always nice but a meter is good too, look for low readings. 5% or so low. 

Larryodie

I also would advise to make a new post with step by step procedure as to what is happening and what you have check as I'm very confused
But a voltage check and elimination of the switch as it comes on by itself would be a MUST DO.