Is my laptop dead? My ACER A515-51G- 55QD won't turn on

So basically my ACER won't turn on, like is dead. When unplugged there's no LEDs on. When plugged to the A/C it shows the blue LED, the other one (orange) stays off in both cases. When I press the power button there is no response.

I tried reseting the battery through the pin hole method, disconnecting the battery and pressing 30s the power button method, clearing the CMOS...but none worked. One thing I found out (Idk if it's relevant) is the blue LED is only on if the battery is connected, if I disconnect the battery it turns off even with the A/C plugged.

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JackE

You may be in luck. You probably have a normally-off spring-loaded mainboard safety switch that probably isn't being pressed hard enough by or misaligned with a pimple or protrusion inside the bottom case cover. Your job will be to remove the bottom cover and try to find this switch. I'll see what I can do, or someone else will beat me to it, to locate it for you. Jack E/NJ

Power on issue flow chart

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/77/burh7q1r9p1s.jpg

JackE

OK. The switch SWG1 you're looking for is located just below the RAM module slots. Give it a couple of presses to try to clean it's contacts. And tape a spacer on its button or its corresponding protrusion on the bottom case cover to depress it harder when the case is assembled correctly. Jack E/N J

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/09/xa8zk3zccb7n.jpg

Musclepanx

JackE said:

You may be in luck. You probably have a normally-off spring-loaded mainboard safety switch that probably isn't being pressed hard enough by or misaligned with a pimple or protrusion inside the bottom case cover. Your job will be to remove the bottom cover and try to find this switch. I'll see what I can do, or someone else will beat me to it, to locate it for you. Jack E/NJ

Power on issue flow chart

Thank you for the answer. I did try that solution as well. I even put some layers of electric tape to ensure the it was pressing the switch correctly. I tried pressing down the switch with my finger as well. But again no response.

JackE

Well, if you popped the safety switch and battery reset switch a few times with no luck, I guess the next suspect is the KB connector to the mainboard according to the flow chart. So try to re-seat it a few times. Jack E/NJ

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/ob/lhq6yzvv4ztl.jpg

Musclepanx

JackE said:

Well, if you popped the safety switch and battery reset switch a few times with no luck, I guess the next suspect is the KB connector to the mainboard according to the flow chart. So try to re-seat it a few times. Jack E/NJ

Ok. I'll try and let you know. Thank you!

Musclepanx

@JackE, I just tried to unplug the KB connector, and nothing, still no response.

JackE

Sorry, at this point, it's either the power button on the keyboard or the mainboard itself. The KB button isn't listed as a separate part so according to the flowchart, the whole top with the keyboard (part# 6B.GP4N2.001) would probably have to be replaced if the button or its mainboard connection can't be isolated from the rest of the KB. Cost of a new KB top is about ~$70 but no guarantees. If it's in fact a mainboard failure, a solder reflow might bring it back but again no guarantees. In my opinion, it'd be unusual for the mainboard to fail like this. So the KB button is my best guess. If the machine is no longer under warranty, I suggest your most practical next step might be to try to get a free evaluation & repair estimate from a local shop to see if it's worthwhile trying to save. Jack E/NJ

Musclepanx

JackE said:

Sorry, at this point, it's either the power button on the keyboard or the mainboard itself. The KB button isn't listed as a separate part so according to the flowchart, the whole top with the keyboard (part# 6B.GP4N2.001) would probably have to be replaced if the button or its mainboard connection can't be isolated from the rest of the KB. Cost of a new KB top is about ~$70 but no guarantees. If it's in fact a mainboard failure, a solder reflow might bring it back but again no guarantees. In my opinion, it'd be unusual for the mainboard to fail like this. So the KB button is my best guess. If the machine is no longer under warranty, I suggest your most practical next step might be to try to get a free evaluation & repair estimate from a local shop to see if it's worthwhile trying to save. Jack E/NJ

Yeah, I will do that. Thanks for your help.

Developer35

I know it is an old thread but I have the exact same problem and I already tried the solutions listed above. So @Musclepanx did you solve your problem and how?

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