Ascer Aspire v3-772g randomly turning off

Ever since i changed thermal paste and thermal pads to fix overheating issue my laptop has been randomly turning off and failing to turn on until i do hard reset or just wait a bit. At first when the problem started my laptop would beep a few times before turning off after a week or so beeping sound disappeared. If i'm with battery and power cable plugged in laptop makes sound as if i disconnected power cable, the screen goes darker for a few seconds and then turns off. If i'm with power cable or battery alone there is no warning before laptop turns off. Turns off more often if i play any game, didn't have any overheating issues since. I have been trying to fix this for over a month, trying different solutions i find on the internet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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JackE

Sounds like the safety interlock switch or battery reset switch on the mainboard is not aligned properly with the case cover when you put it back together. First check the battery re-set switch under the battery reset pinhole if it has one to make sure something protruding from inside the bottom case can't depress it. If all seems OK, then look for another obvious protrusion inside the bottom case that is supposed to be depressing a mainboard safety switch when the cover is on. The purpose of this switch is to cut power if the bottom case is taken off. Sometimes this other protrusion inside the case doesn't fully depress the switch and the system shuts off when moved or when you're using the keyboard or touchpad. The solution is to apply tape or spacer to the case protrusion so it presses harder against this switch to keep it on. Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

JackE said:

Sounds like the safety interlock switch or battery reset switch on the mainboard is not aligned properly with the case cover when you put it back together. First check the battery re-set switch under the battery reset pinhole if it has one to make sure something protruding from inside the bottom case can't depress it. If all seems OK, then look for another obvious protrusion inside the bottom case that is supposed to be depressing a mainboard safety switch when the cover is on. The purpose of this switch is to cut power if the bottom case is taken off. Sometimes this other protrusion inside the case doesn't fully depress the switch and the system shuts off when moved or when you're using the keyboard or touchpad. The solution is to apply tape or spacer to the case protrusion so it presses harder against this switch to keep it on. Jack E/NJ

Is it possible for my laptop model not to have those? I can't find it

JackE

It's possible. The only way to find out is to remove the back cover and look for switch activation protrusions inside the cover that would be aligned with anything looking like a spring-loaded push-button switch on the mainboard. Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

Don't have it then. It's been a few days since the last time i had the problem i haven't played anything since then, i think it's safe to assume at this point it's only when i do play games. Do you know what else could be the cause of this issue?

JackE

Games should freeze or show signs of throttling like drops in FPS just before the machine turns off. In other words, there should be warning signs that the CPU/GPU is starting to reach temps consistently above 90*C and close to automatic shutdown. Is this the behavior you see while gaming? Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

No, nothing of that kind, games run as smooth as ever, since i changed my thermal paste and thermal pads temperatures don't go above 60*C.

JackE

Then sure still sounds like a cover misalignment with a mainboard switch. Does the bottom cover have a small pinhole with a battery symbol? Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

No it doesn't. Could it be somehow related to gpu since it happens while gaming?

JackE

I think it's somehow related to re-pasting. Did you remove anything other than the heat sinks under the thermal module hoods? Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

You might be right, everything did start after i replaced thermal paste, i'm pretty sure i only replaced the old tape around heat sink with new electrical tape, was following a disassemble video. Could the new thermal paste be faulty or something?

JackE

>>>Could the new thermal paste be faulty or something? >>>

Probably not unless a bit got smeared on mainboard solder bumps or exposed conductors. What paste did you use? Wearing a wrist-strap?

Jack E/N

brolumbus

I really want to thank you for helping me out, means a lot. I used this https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T. It didn't get smeared on anything, i checked. Didn't use a wrist-strap, when i was looking into the whole thermal paste replacing process i didn't see anything about it. Is it something i should have used?

JackE

MX-4 is a good choice. High thermal conductivity yet lower electrical conductivity than metals. Less prone to inadvertent smearing issues. And yes, the wrist strap should be used but most folks --- including me --- don't always.

But I re-read your first post and changed my mind due to your comment >>>At first when the problem started my laptop would beep a few times before turning off after a week or so beeping sound disappeared. If i'm with battery and power cable plugged in laptop makes sound as if i disconnected power cable, the screen goes darker for a few seconds and then turns off. >>>

Because something similar happened to me about 2 months ago. I kept hearing beeps as if unplugging the charger or battery charge warning below 10%. But no real consequence except an occasional random shut down. Turned right back on, sometimes with the warning that Windows didn't properly shut down, sometimes not.

Took me a week to figure it out. Only because I finally noticed the charge indicator wasn't lit even though the laptop was and had been plugged in. It wouldn't turn on at all now. Oh-oh. Re-seated both the laptop plug and charger's wall plug. Wall receptable live. Still no light. Jiggle laptop plug and wire. Stll no light. Jiggle wall plug and wire. Finally some orange light flashes from the charge indicator. Spread charger wall plug prongs a bit for a tighter fit. Steady orange light now. Turned right back on again. Whew. Check battery charge level, 7% and charging. Finally turned blue after several hours. The beeps were in fact intermittent AC power losses and below 10% battery charge warnings. And the random shutdowns were the battery reaching critically low levels.

Jack E/NJ

brolumbus

After these random shutdowns my battery is usually full, sometimes its on 95% no idea how since its always plugged in and doesn't always turn right back on, sometimes it starts booting but shuts down after a second, sometimes just have to wait a bit . The only light i lost was the led from my power button, i also noticed that my power button ribbon cable is somewhat damaged, lost one of those metal bits (pulled imagine from google). Could it be causing these issues?

Image: https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAAuL.jpg

JackE

Possible. You might try extend the broken trace with copper stained-glass tape so it's actually connected inside the mainboard connector. The tape must be folded back over on what's left of the existing trace since it's usually not too conductive on the adhesive side. Might at least restore the LED indicator function. Jack E/NJ

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