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Issue with Nitro 5 AN515-52
Answers
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And when I press the power button and leave it, the blue charge LED turns off for a moment0
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What is the exact model of your notebook? Example an515-51-75kz! In addition, here should inform the revision of the motherboard:
Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
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Detection tool click here to find the serial number or partnumber of your model!
egydiocoelho
TrailblazerFor users of the English, Spanish, French and German community, I will be using google translator!
ProductKey clique aqui para descobrir o serial do windows! click here to discover the windows serial!
Para usuários da comunidade inglesa, espanhola, francesa e alemã, usarei o google tradutor! 0 -
I guess it's possible that, instead of mechanical switch, the safety might've been changed to a magnetic reed or hall effect switch like on the lid-close sensor. I had assumed that this hall sensor was for the lid. Maybe not. Does the bottom cover have a magnet that might align with the hall sensor on the mainboard? Jack E/NJ
Jack E/NJ
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egydiocoelho said:What is the exact model of your notebook? Example an515-51-75kz! In addition, here should inform the revision of the motherboard:
Model AN515-52-50VR0 -
I didn't find any similar magnet under the coverJackE said:I guess it's possible that, instead of mechanical switch, the safety might've been changed to a magnetic reed or hall effect switch like on the lid-close sensor. I had assumed that this hall sensor was for the lid. Maybe not. Does the bottom cover have a magnet that might align with the hall sensor on the mainboard? Jack E/NJ
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Where would the hall sensor line up on the inside of the cover? I can't tell from your image? Jack E/NJ
Jack E/NJ
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If this is an i5, there were at least 3 different mainboards used. The UPC label posted earlier is probably the detailed part number for this board. I'm gonna guess it's this one. Jack E/NJ
Jack E/NJ
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Hi guys, no news about this revision?0
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Do you see any capacitor burned or something? It's strange this problem, but I've seen other users report a similar situation, but that occurred when installing a ssd m2!Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
Se você gostou da minha resposta, marque como solução clicando em sim! If you liked my answer, mark it as a solution by clicking on yes!
Aceite somente a resposta que ajudou a solucionar o seu problema! Please accept only the response that helped to solve your problem!
Detection tool click here to find the serial number or partnumber of your model!
egydiocoelhoTrailblazerFor users of the English, Spanish, French and German community, I will be using google translator!
ProductKey clique aqui para descobrir o serial do windows! click here to discover the windows serial!
Para usuários da comunidade inglesa, espanhola, francesa e alemã, usarei o google tradutor! 0 -
egydiocoelho said:Do you see any capacitor burned or something? It's strange this problem, but I've seen other users report a similar situation, but that occurred when installing a ssd m2!I've posted several photos before to show that the mobo has no such problems. The capacitors are ok, and the mainboard is perfect.
I believe these models are defective.
I have read many people complaining about the Nitro series.
So I honestly can't explain this problem. It's not the first time I've opened a laptop.
I've never seen anything like it.
I installed SSD M2 without any problems, and I installed windows and some programs.
Performing some tests I realized that the temperatures were crazy (a common problem on these laptops) and so I decided to replace the thermoconductive paste.
The work I found on the CPU and GPU was really ridiculous.
I wonder how you can put a notebook with poor thermal conductive paste so loosely on the market.
A PC that leaves the factory and makes 95/96 degrees of temperature, is not serious!0 -
Yeah, that part no. was only a guess on the un-revised MB so not much help. The empty solder bump MrKrakeen found on this obviously revised mainboard was probably where the safety switch was once located. But it seems to me that if the charger is plugged in, and the battery's charge LED is lit with the base cover on but unlit with the base cover off, then a safety of some kind must be in there somewhere. Jack E/NJ
Jack E/NJ
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I have this model AN515-52-582P, and when I put my smartphone (POCOPHONE F1) to the left side of the trackpad my laptop screen turns off, and when I remove the smartphone it turns back on0
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@solaresmty This is because the smartphone must have a magnet that interferes with the sensor hall.
Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
Se você gostou da minha resposta, marque como solução clicando em sim! If you liked my answer, mark it as a solution by clicking on yes!
Aceite somente a resposta que ajudou a solucionar o seu problema! Please accept only the response that helped to solve your problem!
Detection tool click here to find the serial number or partnumber of your model!
egydiocoelhoTrailblazerFor users of the English, Spanish, French and German community, I will be using google translator!
ProductKey clique aqui para descobrir o serial do windows! click here to discover the windows serial!
Para usuários da comunidade inglesa, espanhola, francesa e alemã, usarei o google tradutor! 0 -
Hello folks.
I have followed this issue and followed all steps you guys spoke about
I have a AN515 52, basically the same model. Gtx 1050,i5 8th gen.
I don't have that trigger thingy below the ram slots, nor was there signs of a safety mechanism.
Today I received a new m.2 ssd nvme. I opened my laptop, not the first time ever done, I did repastes before and dust cleanups.
During the installation of my new SSD, I accidentally pressed the battery reset button, I also didn't unplug the battery since I forgot.
After reassemblance, the display refused to turn on. There were keyboard lights and a momentarily fan spin that stopped.
I am unable to use my nitro 5 at all, I checked external monitors, no signal. I unplugged battery and cmos both individually and simultaneously, nothing. I refit my ram, nothing. I followed through the entire battery reset process, nothing. All this was done while reverting back to my old m.2
My last two attempts is doing the battery reset process again which is being done as I write, and the last being completely leaving my battery outside for the night before testing it again in the morning before deciding to go to a repair shop.
I am HIGHLY confident that nothing is broken, cause there is no sense in anything breaking at all after a m.2 swap.
My only two viable solutions is anything to do with the battery reset button and the magnetic lid possibly keeping my display closed, I had a friend test their laptop connected to a TV while simulating closed lid and it did not replicate, so that's a possible theory.
I know this thread is old but I pray that someone will answer, maybe even the OP himself.
Last thing, is it possible that the lid sensor can be unplugged so that the display stays on?
Thank you all for the help.
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>>>During the installation of my new SSD, I accidentally pressed the battery reset button, I also didn't unplug the battery since I forgot.>>A definite no-no. If Windows was shut down in fast startup mode in ControlPanel's power button app (which is often default), then the SSD was installed while the mainboard was essentially hot. Have you also removing the SSD with the charger unplugged and battery disconnected so the machine is back to where you started?
Jack E/NJ
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I think so yeah, Ive done a bunch of things involving disconnecting my battery. Swapped between both SSDs like twice, and yes I think I have fast start up enabled.JackE said:>>>During the installation of my new SSD, I accidentally pressed the battery reset button, I also didn't unplug the battery since I forgot.>>A definite no-no. If Windows was shut down in fast startup mode in ControlPanel's power button app (which is often default), then the SSD was installed while the mainboard was essentially hot. Have you also removing the SSD with the charger unplugged and battery disconnected so the machine is back to where you started?0 -
Nvm, I don't have fast startup, I know cause I disabled it to prevent my laptop from staying booted for over 24hours as shown in task managerKaramTNC said:I think so yeah, Ive done a bunch of things involving disconnecting my battery. Swapped between both SSDs like twice, and yes I think I have fast start up enabled.0 -
>>>Nvm, I don't have fast startup, I know cause I disabled it to prevent my laptop from staying booted for over 24hours as shown in task manager >>>What do you mean 'prevent laptop from staying booted for over 24 hours' ? Fast startup only keeps RAM charged & populated with startup boot files so RAM doesn't have to loaded from SSD or HDD. Even if RAM was not kept charged, you still have hot mainboard pins, bus lines and bare wire connections with battery still connected.At any rate, if it's no longer under warrany and you've got the system back together the way it was before you opened it up but the problem remains, I suggest that you take it to a local laptop repair shop for an evaluation and repair estimate. At this point, without having the machine in front of me or using diagnostic tools to evaluate the problem further, it sounds like the graphics subsystem has failed since even an external monitor shows no screen signal.
Jack E/NJ
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I remember long ago noticing that my task manager has shown my laptop to have been on for multiple days, I googled and found that fast startup was the cause of that so I disabled it.JackE said:>>>Nvm, I don't have fast startup, I know cause I disabled it to prevent my laptop from staying booted for over 24hours as shown in task manager >>>What do you mean 'prevent laptop from staying booted for over 24 hours' ? Fast startup only keeps RAM charged & populated with startup boot files so RAM doesn't have to loaded from SSD or HDD. Even if RAM was not kept charged, you still have hot mainboard pins, bus lines and bare wire connections with battery still connected.At any rate, if it's no longer under warrany and you've got the system back together the way it was before you opened it up but the problem remains, I suggest that you take it to a local laptop repair shop for an evaluation and repair estimate. At this point, without having the machine in front of me or using diagnostic tools to evaluate the problem further, it sounds like the graphics subsystem has failed since even an external monitor shows no screen signal.
I am already gonna visit a technician tmr since all options have been used, thank you anyway.0
I don't see anything like the JHS1 magnet on this motherboard
