PREDATOR G6-710 won’t turn on

Toroxin
Toroxin Member Posts: 3 New User
edited February 15 in 2019 Archives
it’s flashing a red light under the power button when plugged into a power source, can’t get it to do anything else. 

Answers

  • brummyfan2
    brummyfan2 ACE Posts: 28,470 Trailblazer
    Hi,
    Switch off the laptop, disconnect from mains and follow the instructions in the video:https://us.answers.acer.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/34843/~/acer-internal-battery-reset

    Acer Predator PT516-51s Performance Results - UserBenchmark

  • Toroxin
    Toroxin Member Posts: 3 New User
    Is a desktop, shouldn’t that make a difference?
  • brummyfan2
    brummyfan2 ACE Posts: 28,470 Trailblazer
    Toroxin said:
    Is a desktop, shouldn’t that make a difference?

    Hi,
    Sorry, it was my mistake, disconnect from mains, press the Power button for 30 seconds, let it rest for a while, then reconnect and try switching on.

    Acer Predator PT516-51s Performance Results - UserBenchmark

  • stfy
    stfy Member Posts: 1 New User
    Hi, I have the same problem with my brand new predator g6-710. 
    The following problem solution doesn't work, any suggestions?
    Disconnect from mains, press the Power button for 30 seconds, let it rest for a while, then reconnect and try switching on. 
  • brummyfan2
    brummyfan2 ACE Posts: 28,470 Trailblazer
    stfy said:
    Hi, I have the same problem with my brand new predator g6-710. 
    The following problem solution doesn't work, any suggestions?
    Disconnect from mains, press the Power button for 30 seconds, let it rest for a while, then reconnect and try switching on. 

    stfy said:
    Hi, I have the same problem with my brand new predator g6-710. 
    The following problem solution doesn't work, any suggestions?
    Disconnect from mains, press the Power button for 30 seconds, let it rest for a while, then reconnect and try switching on. 
    Hi,
    Remove the memory modules one by one and check whether it helps, make sure they are seated properly.

    Acer Predator PT516-51s Performance Results - UserBenchmark

  • Toroxin
    Toroxin Member Posts: 3 New User
    I also tried this, didn’t work. Could it be power supply issue?
  • Sobe
    Sobe Member Posts: 138 Skilled Fixer WiFi Icon
    Try disconnecting the HDD_LED wires from the motherboard. If still the same, reconnect them and disconnect the Power LED.
  • Proxlamus
    Proxlamus Member Posts: 10

    Tinkerer
    Best thing I found is to turn off the power supply switch.  Let it sit for a minute and flip the power supply back on.  Then press the power button in the front.   
  • ABarista
    ABarista Member Posts: 4 New User
    Has there been any progress on this issue, I recently had this happen?
  • ABarista
    ABarista Member Posts: 4 New User
    Update, I replaced my PSU and problem went away
  • Stuey
    Stuey Member Posts: 5 New User
    edited October 2018

    I have a similar problem with my Predator G6.  The desktop worked the night before.  The next morning, it wouldn't turn on - no red lights, no fans, no noise - nothing.

    I cleaned it, reset the electronics, replaced CMOS battery, and put in a new power supply unit - still nothing - no change at all. 

    It acts like it's not connected to power - which I have checked 10 times.  Could this be the on/off switch?  I tried researching it & Acer uses some proprietary switch & wiring.

  • Commodore_1995#
    Commodore_1995# ACE Posts: 98,322 Trailblazer
    You can try resetting the bios with the CMOS jumper:
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  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 34,234 Trailblazer
    You can use an ohm meter to test the switch itself. Unplug it from the motherboard and test between the wires at the connector. You should get infinite resistance until you push the button where it drops to near zero. If the switch itself is working, plug it back into the motherboard and check to see if the system is now working. If so it was likely some corrosion in the connector. If the switch works but the system still doesn't turn on inspect the motherboard connector closely. Perhaps there's a bad solder joint on of of those pins. Let us know what you find out and we'll take it farther if need be.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Stuey
    Stuey Member Posts: 5 New User
    The switch has four wires coming from it.  I'll check resistance.  I called a local computer store & they don't have a replacement switch like this.
  • Stuey
    Stuey Member Posts: 5 New User
    Ok.  Of the four wires, there's two blue ones, a green one and a white one.  There is nothing between any of them before hitting the on/off button - no volts or Ohms.  When I press the button, the only activity I get is .4 ohms between the two blue wires.  Nothing else between any combination. 
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 34,234 Trailblazer
    That actually is good for the switch. I'd guess the other two wire light the power LED when power is applied. So the switch itself is good. Next step is to verify the power supply itself works. It's an ATX supply so there's an enable wire on the main connector to the motherboard (PS_ON). If you jumper it to one of the ground wires the power supply should turn on. Here's a short YouTube showing it. Let us know if the supply turns on when jumpered and not connected to the motherboard.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Stuey
    Stuey Member Posts: 5 New User
    Ok, I finally was able to address this again.  I did the jumper on the power supply main connector and it turned on when I flipped the switch on it to "on" (I have a brand new power supply in it that has an external switch).  When I removed the jumper and plugged it back into the main board, nothing - zip. 
  • Stuey
    Stuey Member Posts: 5 New User
    I also did the CMOS jumper reset & removed memory modules again - nothing.   I'm wondering if the mother board is fried?  How hard is it to replace that?  Can I salvage the CPU chip?
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 34,234 Trailblazer
    That's what it's looking like. The switch works, the power supply works, there is only the motherboard between them. :( It's likely the components like memory and processor are still good, it's just the power switching circuit that's gone bad. You might be able to test this by doing the same jumper, but from the top of the connector to force power on but I'd spend some Google time first to make sure that's not going to zap anything. If the system powers up and runs with the jumper in than the processor and memory are fine.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • marcusliassides
    marcusliassides Member Posts: 2 New User
    Stuey said:
    I also did the CMOS jumper reset & removed memory modules again - nothing.   I'm wondering if the mother board is fried?  How hard is it to replace that?  Can I salvage the CPU chip?
    Did you ever find the solution here? Mine is doing exactly the same and I've tried everything I can find online.

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