Upgrade SSD on Acer Aspire E 11 ES1-111M-C40S.

peterjan78,

What kind of RAM did you get and is it easy to upgrade the RAM from 2 GB to 8 gb. If you can write up some steps and post pictures of where and how to install, it will be much appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I did see your posts on ucmportal site discussion regarding removing the Recovery partition. So you returned it eh...I have had this for a week now, another 3 to go before I decide if I keep this. RAM is $75 bucks and that slowly keeps increasing the cost. So far RAM has not been a problem for the viewing of videos purpose that I got this puppy for. The internal C drive free space is bothering me. I had 14.3 GB when I got it and now after a week it dropped to 9 GB even though I hardly installed 4 tiny programs. The C:\Users\username\AppData folder is chewing up space and according to the KB on Windows site, you should not delete anything from there.

I have concluded that you cannot ge that 10 gb partition with Recovery files freeded up even after preparing a USB Recovery memory stick.

Other than that, I like this cheap laptop so far to be use a a low cost HTPC.

i did the HDD mod. now 640GB HDD int this laptop.

i use 4 capators (100nF) and a sata connektor. its working now :-)

if you do this mod, the risk is yours not mine!!!

look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=2&v=SVTVis7vK3Y

Hi,
I also want to do the mod, I've found one conector on an old asus motherboard, hope it will fit.

The capacitors are 100nF, smd type i guess, it was a link above

I have another model, it's a ES11 ES1-131-C273, but I think are the same...

Aspire e11 es1-111m-c7da SSD upgrade Y.Desfarges 31/05/2016

Be aware you do this modification at your own risks. If you are not familiar with micro-electronic, not sure of how to do it, or if you do not have the right tools, DO NOT ATTEMPT to do it as you may damage you mother board (I saw some forum talks about drilling the holes to insert the connector! never do that as you may cut the internal layer links to the tracks) .

My first idea was to use a right angle connector taken from a cheap IDE to Sata converter, which seemed to be a good idea, then I tried it but I ended up with the SSD not lined up (1-2 mm) with the motherboard so that when the SSD is plugged in, it would push up the mother board stressing it dangerously when its fixing screws are tighten (may brake ceramic caps) (Fig1).

I know I could have been using a Sata connector with top mount but the problem would have been the same opposite side of the motherboard, the SSD being too high in its location.

As I did not find the correct “offset” right angled connector for this type of mounting, I decided to go for a straight edge connector, never mind if not designed for through hole mounting as I used pieces of wire to go through the holes and soldered them to the pins. The good thing is that the pins are alternate top/bottom so that the resulting pitch between pins on one side is 2.54mm making it easier to solder.

The other concern was about those “4 missing capacitors”, which appeared to be in fact coupling capacitors to reject DC voltage in case of long distance connections like using external cables . As we are here fully inside the PC with direct connections to mother board, there is no real need for those capacitors and they can be replaced by jumpers to allow the RX and TX pairs to be connected (Fig 7).

Personally, I used very thin soldering iron, solder pump, desoldering wick, binoculars, Polyimide Kapton Tape and micro wire 30AWG 0.05mm² to do it. The pads for the 4 missing capacitors are 0402 size which is very small ! beware of short circuits and orientations! and do not shake like a leaf! Not to mention to clean up the pcb before and after soldering for a good job using alcohol or cleaning spray with brush.

You can find the Sata edge connector on the web for cheap on Alichinese if you are not in a hurry, as for me I got it from local Amazcom for a few euros in a SDD USB3 enclosure within a few days (Fig 2):

I removed the connector using a solder pump and desoldering wick.

Then I put a strip of Polyimide Kapton Tape on the edge of the motherboard on both sides because as it seems to be designed for a right angle connector, the pins are not supposed to lay on the edge, I noticed there is a copper track with connecting vias on the motherboard in this area. As my connector pins may scratch some varnish or silk screen paint while positioning it, it is best to avoid short circuit underneath the pins anyway.

Then I positioned the connector correctly for the pins to be lined up with the holes and I secured the connector on the mother board using hot melt adhesive, so that it is not free to move anymore. Be very careful not to overheat components around, do not use welding torch! At worse use soldering iron but at low temp (Fig 3).

Then, I inserted in each hole, one at a time, pieces of wire long enough to reach the pins. Soldered, cut short the wire. Did all on one side first, and other side afterwards (Fig 4).

Here is a drawing of how the pins are linked to the motherboard. Only one side is shown, the other side is the same but alternate (Fig 5-6):

The SSD in place in the PC (Fig 8-9):

The SSD is then lined up with motherboard:

The PC cover needs to be modified to leave room for the SSD. Simply break the partitions with pliers as follows (Fig 10-11):

Then, I used thin cardboard piece around the SSD as I had no mounting tray for it, just to wedge it in place because it is rather loose. I bent the cardboard all around and make it overlay a bit on top. When the cover is back in place, the SSD may not move anymore (Fig 12-13).

That all and it works…SSD recognized straight at boot up on a Linux Ubuntu. I just had to format and mount the partition using Gparted to be able to use it for data and kept the full 32Gb emmc for system. 120Gb SSD 53€ + connector 10€ + accessory 10€ + time spent = worth doing it !

Note:

If I had to use 4 capacitors instead of the jumpers, I would have chosen 10nF as we can find in manufacturer’s application notes of Sata drivers.

If anybody finds the correct “offset” right angle Sata connector, please post !

Hi iiee,

Actually, I did not try to install the system on the Sata SSD, because it was already on the emmc and because 32GB is enough for linux. I can not see why it would not be possible...

Good luck if you do the mod and remember that if you find an offset connector it would be easier.

Regards

Hello i just got this pc and i am really upset that it is faulty ive always told everybody go buy an acer its a good quality brand but i am disapointed that the laptop i got for school is hardly functioning propperly eg. keyboard glitching. Trackpad not working sometimes plz respond to me please

[edited for privacy-please do not post personal or unique information such as but not limited to full names, email addresses, phone numbers, full serial numbers, etc.]

Hi,

Congratulations your success.

I finally added a 240GB SSD but I couldn't install Windows 8.1 with error message of 0x80300024. Can you share your experience of installing OS on the added HDD or SSD to ES1-111M-C40S?

Hi, just throwing this out there as maybe thinner alternative to a normal SSD that you used.

once the port is soldered onto the motherboard normally with out any fancy wiring it may be an option to look into MSATA cards vs SSD SATA drives.

Smaller thinner format only 3 to 4mm tall and an adapter such as this: a SATA to MSATA adapter  https://www.startech.com/ca/Cables/Drive/Micro-SATA/Micro-SATA-to-SATA-Adapter-Cable-with-Power~MCSATAADAP  probably has a lot of plastic on the top and botton that can be sanded down carefully to make it thinner to fit into the case with out touching the wires inside.  the MSATA's are a little bit pricier but it just might make it an easier option than your soldering job you did for others to do this as well.  

**woops wrong adapter**

If anyone attempts the above route might be best to purchase the sata to msata adapter first and sand it down to see if its indeed possible to get it thin enough.

a third option would be to look into M2 SATA  (NOT M2 PCIE!!!!) cards and sata to M2 adapters as well seeing if any are thinner than 7mm when combined with a m2 card.

yet another option is to remove the SSD from its case and put something in there to insulate the ssd so you dont get a bad bend happening due to the offset difference.