any compatible heat pipes for Aspire ES1-522 ?

SMaaaaaa
SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

Tinkerer

edited March 2022 in Aspire Laptops
I have an Acer Aspire ES1-522 with cooling problems probably related to the heatpipe (it does not conduct heat properly to the heatsink), so I am searching on Internet for a replace to it. Do anyone know if other heatpipes (in particular, ES1-523 ones, but also others) can be also used to replace it?

[Edited the content to add model name to the title]

Best Answer

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    edited March 2022 Answer ✓
    Hi, here I am again with some updates:
    I ordered that piece (not "so" cheap tbh - at least I think-, but I was expecting something real worse than that...) and it was shipped to me: mounted it and... problem is vanished! With no (intentional) workload the average temperature is between 44 °C and 48 °C, the fan starts to work only if needed and no more sudden shutdowns due to overheating.

    Fun fact: at the first boot I forgot to connect back the fan to the MoBo, so temperature was like 56 °C with no (intentional, again) workload. Connected the fan back and... temperature started to drop down at an average rate of 1 °C per second, and in a really short time, reached 44 °C, the fan stopped itself because was literally no more needed... just like a normal computer :)

    The piece also came with a "ready-to-use" layer of thermal paste applied to the contact square, so no extra paste was needed... or at least I think it is, do anyone knows if any (little!) extra paste can do better than 44/48 °C of average temp? I don't think so but I want to ask, just to know.

    Anyway, many thanks to @JackE and @AnhEZ28 for your help and your patience! I really appreciate it and I am really grateful to you.

«1

Answers

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    A heat pipe is simply an air duct that circulates air from the fans intake to the cpu/gpu heatsinks. If it's not operating properly, it is likely clogged with dust inside the ducts that can be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner or compressed air. It is rare that they need to be replaced unless they are crushed.

    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    edited March 2022
    JackE said:
    A heat pipe is simply an air duct that circulates air from the fans intake to the cpu/gpu heatsinks. If it's not operating properly, it is likely clogged with dust inside the ducts that can be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner or compressed air. It is rare that they need to be replaced unless they are crushed.

    Hello, and thanks for your answer. I have already removed the dust inside the heatsink, but still got the same problem (overheating till the critical temperature, basically), and also changed thermal paste. How could I know if heatsink is crushed? The only thing I observe is that heatpipe becomes slightly hot while heatsink remain cold and emits (by fan) only cold air, and when I force fan to turn off the situation does not change, thus I thought that the problem is in the heatpipe, maybe related to the internal refrigerator liquid
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    >>>. I have already removed the dust inside the heatsink>>>

    Yes, but you haven't vacuumed the copper colored heat pipe. The heatsink only sits on top of the cpu under the heatpipe The copper colored heatpipe runs from the heatsink to the fan module. The heat pipe must be open inside. From your description, it seems clogged with dust balls inside. You can certainly tell if its crushed just by looking at the heatpipe. If you unsure, post a phone photo of your heat pipe and I'll give you an evaluation.


    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Oh ok, I think I was missing that. And I also don't know where to see the pipe opening, so... here are two photos of it:

    (Too much thermal paste maybe - I know, in the first place I thought the problem was too less of it... could not find any solution at the time :D )


  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    Can you easily remove the black vents so you can access the  copper colored tube ends with a vacuum cleaner?


    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    edited March 2022
    I think I don't know how to remove the two elements at the ends (they are "hardly" fixed to the pipe), and also I don't know how to put them back again after vacuumed
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    OK. Then please show a phone photo of the bare cpu with this thermal module removed.

    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Of course! Here it is, thermal paste removed:

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    OK.

    (1) First, way too much paste was used. It obviously oozed and covered coils & resistors surrounding the cpu. Clean more of the paste off the board and surrounding components with a soft cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. Use only a thin coating of paste

    (2) You must also try to separate the black heat sink from the copper tube & square cover. The heatsink fins and tube are probably clogged with dust cutting off air from fans to cool the cpu. The black heat sink should be simply nested in the square copper cover. If you hold the heat screw handle with one hand and the copper tube in the other hand you should be able to gently lift the black heat sink away from the square copper cover.

     

    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    edited March 2022
    Yes, too much thermal paste.
    For the second point, is this the part I have to remove? It seems to be an electrical insulator for the electronics near the CPU, and also I don't know how to stick it back over the copper square when I'm done

  • AnhEZ28
    AnhEZ28 ACE, Member Posts: 4,277 Pathfinder
    @SMaaaaaa I'm not sure why would that black tape insulator has to be removed because it prevents those small capacitors from shorting to the copper surface. Secondly, we cannot seperate the heatsink contact and the tube as they are soldered together. You can use a double sided tabe or glue to stick that black tape on. What is the thermal paste that you are using?
    Please remember to include @AnhEZ28 when you want to reply back to my comment so that I can check your response.
    Thank you and have a nice day!
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    Can you find air vent opening around square copper cover? There must be an air vent opening for air to escape.

    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    @AnkEZ28 yes, the pipe and the "square" are soldered together, and I have not fully separated the black insulator. For the thermal paste: I don't know how to specify what type of it I am using, can only say that I tried two different ones, with different quantities

    @JackE No, it seems that no opening are present in the area, confirmed also by "touching" the black insulator trying to find any under it 
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    Don't worry about insulator right now. Can you blow air in the end that connects to the fan and feel air coming out anywhere around the cpu cover?


    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    No, cannot feel any, tried even with a hair dryer to blow into the fan side.
  • AnhEZ28
    AnhEZ28 ACE, Member Posts: 4,277 Pathfinder
    edited March 2022
    @SMaaaaaa I don't think that is how the heatsink works. The heatsink helps cool the CPU by transferring the heat from the CPU contact through the copper pipe to the vent. The copper tube is like a vapor chamber and enclosed because it contains a small amount of liquid for evaporation. A fan blows the air through the vent to cool down the heat inside the tube but should not have any air going out from the CPU contact. The heatsink won't work if the pipe is punctured but upon looking at your heatsink, this looks fine. You can try to use a well-known thermal paste like MX-4, MX-5, or Kryonaut because some cheap paste won't work well.
    Please remember to include @AnhEZ28 when you want to reply back to my comment so that I can check your response.
    Thank you and have a nice day!
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer

    Yes, I think you may be correct. If this is the case, then it's entirely possible that the tube has sprung a leak at a solder joint. And  thus  the  heat-transfer fluid has leaked out and can no longer cool by evaporation. Google search the part no for this thermal module for vendors who ship to your location. "60.G2JN2.003". This might be a fairly expensive part and difficult to find.
      


    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    Yes, I think @AnhEZ28 is right too, and what I just did is that I found the piece on the Internet and ordered it, so at the moment I am waiting for it... I will update you as soon as it will be possibile, and in the meanwhile... thank you for your help!
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,869 Trailblazer
    Yes, please let us know how it works. Was it reasonably priced?

    Jack E/NJ

  • SMaaaaaa
    SMaaaaaa Member Posts: 11

    Tinkerer

    edited March 2022 Answer ✓
    Hi, here I am again with some updates:
    I ordered that piece (not "so" cheap tbh - at least I think-, but I was expecting something real worse than that...) and it was shipped to me: mounted it and... problem is vanished! With no (intentional) workload the average temperature is between 44 °C and 48 °C, the fan starts to work only if needed and no more sudden shutdowns due to overheating.

    Fun fact: at the first boot I forgot to connect back the fan to the MoBo, so temperature was like 56 °C with no (intentional, again) workload. Connected the fan back and... temperature started to drop down at an average rate of 1 °C per second, and in a really short time, reached 44 °C, the fan stopped itself because was literally no more needed... just like a normal computer :)

    The piece also came with a "ready-to-use" layer of thermal paste applied to the contact square, so no extra paste was needed... or at least I think it is, do anyone knows if any (little!) extra paste can do better than 44/48 °C of average temp? I don't think so but I want to ask, just to know.

    Anyway, many thanks to @JackE and @AnhEZ28 for your help and your patience! I really appreciate it and I am really grateful to you.