Travel mate p259 model N16Q2 won't power on after display repair, LED blinks once, fan spins then stops

i have an acer laptop which i had to repair because of its white display the repair guy said it's a faulty transistor and fixed that but since then the display worked fine but sometimes but laptop wouldn't turn on the light used to blink and fan spins and go goes off now it doesn't turn on (also everytime this thing used to happen and later turned on somehow the time would always change) so i took it to that same repair shop he opened everything was checking those current thingy and later told me that "board is dead/processor bad' and i need to replace board.

[Edited the thread to add model number to the title]

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StevenGen

What is the model of your laptop. Try and do a Hard Reset and see if this fixes the problem, as you could have a frozen EC chip which this will reset, if not, then take your laptop to a technician so they can pinpoint the problem. Good luck and hope this helps you out.

Hard Reset - Remove the screws from the base cover to the upper case of your your laptop, starting from the upper side, pry to release the upper side latches, continue releasing the remaining latches. Then remove the lower case.

Press the power key for 15 seconds to release all power to the laptop and then disconnect the main battery cable from the mainboard, then take the main battery out. Then disconnect the RTC/BIOS battery and then short the bios batteries + & - pins at the mainboard plug to reset CMOS and then take all the ran out.

Leave the laptop like that for at least 30min so that EC and Chipset chips reset completely and then reconnect everything, if you have 2x ram modules, only connect 1x ram module and alternate the two ram modules and see if its not the ram that is faulty, as the laptop should turn on and boot properly with an image on the screen.

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Diya1811

Start by locating the hard reset pinhole on the bottom of the device.” Use a paperclip to gently press and hold it for 5–10 seconds, then wait 30 seconds before plugging in the charger and attempting to power it on. Make sure your charger is functioning properly—try using a compatible charger from another Acer laptop if available. Disconnect all external devices such as USB drives, SD cards, and monitors, and then try turning on the laptop with only the charger connected.

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arch_exo

i tried that many times but it didn't work

also its an acer travel mate p259 model N16Q2

arch_exo

its acer travel mate p259 model N16Q2

i did take it to a repairshop

and he did open it up removed the battery and the cmos battery (idk if he did that in the correct order or not )

and kept checking those voltages

tried with a different ram too and after all that he told me that its a board problem and i should replace the board

i asked chatgpt too he said that it could be a problem in mosfet ic or power rails

and i would need a skilled chip level repairer

are those repairable/replaceable? and worth it?

Axxo

When your Travelmate P259 (N16Q2) fails to power on after a display repair and only shows a single blinking LED with the fan spinning briefly, it indicates a hardware issue during the Post-Boot (POST) sequence. Common causes include improperly seated components, residual power, or damage that occurred during the repair process.
Begin with the most straightforward steps and progress to the more invasive ones.

Step 1: Perform a hard reset
A hard reset, also known as draining residual power, can resolve issues caused by static electricity and component errors.
Unplug the AC adapter and any other connected external devices.
Press and hold the power button for 30 seconds. This will discharge any residual power from the motherboard.
On Acer laptops with a non-removable battery, a small pinhole reset button may be located on the bottom of the device. Use a paperclip to press and hold this button for 15–20 seconds.
Reconnect the AC adapter and attempt to power on the laptop.Step 2: Reseat internal components
The fan spinning and stopping indicates that the motherboard is receiving power but failing to initialize fully. The most likely culprit is a loose connection from the repair, particularly the RAM.
Access the components: Carefully open the laptop to access the motherboard. The Acer support site or an online teardown guide may be helpful for your specific model.

Reseat the RAM: Locate the RAM modules. Unclip and remove each one from its slot. Re-insert the modules, ensuring they are fully and correctly seated. If you have more than one module, try booting with just one at a time and swap them between slots to check for a faulty stick or a bad slot.
Check the display and ribbon cables: Inspect the display data (eDP) cable for any signs of damage, and ensure it is properly connected and seated at both the screen and motherboard ends. Also, check the power button's cable if it was disconnected during the repair.
Try an external monitor: Plug the laptop into an external monitor via the HDMI port. If a display appears, the new internal screen is likely defective, or its connection is the source of the problem.Step 3: Reset the BIOS
A BIOS reset can help if the configuration was corrupted during the repair.

Remove the CMOS battery: With the laptop open, disconnect the main battery and the small, coin-cell CMOS battery from the motherboard for several minutes.
Discharge residual power: Press and hold the power button again for 15–20 seconds to be certain all power is drained.
Reconnect and test: Reconnect the CMOS and main batteries, plug in the AC adapter, and try to power on the laptop.
Step 4: Test without the new screen
If you still have the old, cracked screen, this is a useful diagnostic step.
Disconnect the new replacement screen completely.
Plug the laptop into an external monitor and attempt to boot.
If the laptop boots normally and displays on the external screen, the new display is defective or incompatible, or the data cable is faulty.
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billsey

The N16Q2 doesn't actually tell us which model P259 it is, though we can guess by using a search. There seems to be a TravelMate P259-M SKU that might have that number associated with it. Your full model number is usually on the same sticker as your serial number, it should look something like TMP259-xxx-xxxx. If I were to make a guess, I'd guess the repair didn't fix the underlying problem, which blew the transistor, and possibly other components, or the repair tech didn't ground themselves well enough and zapped something with static. If yours is a P259-M, then it's from 2016 and likely not worth further repair.