Need a Like-for-like replacement PSU for XC-1660, GameMax GT 300 not compatible

After 3 years of good service, the OEM PSU for my Acer XC-1660 gave up a couple of days ago, since when it will not power on, and I noticed a quiet ticking noise when it's connected to the mains.

So I bought what I thought was a like-for-like replacement in the GameMax GT-300. While it has a fat loom of cables coming out of the back with all sorts of options, it doesn't have the ones I need. Additionally I guessed (incorrectly, of course) that TFX was a standard form-factor and so didn't bother measuring up. Obviously, another stupid mistake that I won't make again in a hurry.

I have seen posts here asking about upgrades, but I don't really need an upgrade. I just need to get this machine back up and running as soon as possible and I have no clue as to what I need to make that happen.

The broken PSU has a 6-pin (2x3) connector with 5 wires connected; white, white, black, black, green. And a 4-pin (2x2) connector (that goes into an 8-pin socket for some reason) with 2 pairs of black/yellow. Like in this picture:

The new PSU's loom has an 8-pin (4x2) connector, which I just noticed can split into 2 x 4-pin connectors all with yellow and black wires, but it's clearly still useless to me.

Can someone point me to a replacement that will fit and work, please? I am losing money every day this machine is out of service. Not to mention my mind!

Thank you.

Accepted answers

Larryodie

Have you removed your RAM and disconnected all hard drives, keyboard, mouses or anything that is unplugging to see if the tick goes away. Possibly RAM short.

Have you had lightning storms in your locale.l ?

All comments

Larryodie

Check this post. If not then search this board on XC-1660

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1290442#Comment_1290442

EasilyConfused

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I have read that post, several times. However I am struggling to find any ATX PSU that has this (apparently proprietary) 6-pin connector.

The ridiculous prospect of having to buy another computer rather than just source and fit a new PSU becomes increasingly likely as every hour passes.

Larryodie

I see some on EBAY that are 500 W per my link

FSP500-20TGBAB

PLEASE post your complete model # and part numbers off of your power supply. I'll google the numbers that you provide or you can easily do so.

A google search or search here. amazon, ebay or Acer parts in your country should provide easy access to procure.

EasilyConfused

I did indeed search for the exact product number: DC.30018.00C and did find it. But only in China or Sweden, with no certainty of the item even being in stock.

I can't wait another week, let alone a month to wait for a replacement that costs nearly £100 when the computer itself only cost £400 in the first place. So I guess this one is going in the bin. What a waste.

Well done, Acer. I won't be buying any of your products again. What a ridiculous idea that proprietary connection was.

The model number you suggested isn't cheap either, and I can only find used ones of those. As my original only lasted 3 years, I don't see great value in refurbs or used. But thanks again for taking the time.

Larryodie

I see new ones on Ebay UK for like 80 pounds BUT Are you sure that the PS unit is bad ?

Have you checked the volts without being connected ?? The ticking may be a results of a part shorted on the mother board.

I'd suggest taking it to a computer store to fix.

I don't work for ACER, I just try to help in my spare time but I'm sure that they'll listen to your complaint..

Larryodie

Edit

Take to a computer repair shop to diagnose and possibly fix. Good Luck.

EasilyConfused

Thanks again for taking time out to help me through my rage!

I would have ordered that £80 job were it not for the fact that the delivery estimate is over a week away. Perhaps the seller is taking a break.

I will find time for some simple diagnostics on the "faulty" PSU tomorrow for sure before deciding what to do next.

Larryodie

Have you removed your RAM and disconnected all hard drives, keyboard, mouses or anything that is unplugging to see if the tick goes away. Possibly RAM short.

Have you had lightning storms in your locale.l ?

EasilyConfused

Update:

You were absolutely right, it wasn't the PSU after all. With the case open, I could see that the ticking was (mobo) fan trying to start up, but failing to; it was kinda "twitching".

After removing the RAM (no change) I removed the hard drives. Having installed an SSD about a year ago, the drive configuration was different to how it was out of the box. New configuration being:

C Drive: New m2 2TB SSD

D Drive: The original 1TB spinning drive (currently empty)

H Drive: a salvaged 2TB 2.5" laptop hybrid drive (dumping ground for old and mostly unimportant files)

I first removed the old spinning drives but that didn't change anything. I then removed the m2 SSD. No change. I cleaned the m2 connections and replaced it, at which point my machine sprung back into life!

It's not all good news though; when I connect the H drive, it won't start. And when I connect the D drive, it tries to start Windows repair. Now, while I said that the D drive was empty, there is a chance that I left the Windows image on that disk "just in case", I can't really remember.

I had no idea that a failed D or H drive or drives could cause issues with a machine starting up. I thought it would always look for the boot drive, and if all was well, it would carry on regardless, even if Windows can't see it or use it. Apparently not!

So my machine is back up and running, albeit with 2 (non boot) drives now unavailable to me. Any idea what might be going on?

Larryodie

I'm a little confused BUT connect your BOOT DRIVE only.

Boot with F12 with boot enabled in BIOS.

Then select the BOOT drive, should be only one.

Once established then you can add extra drives.

YOU have to establish the boot drive VIA F12 Booting, I think. Others may say different.

EasilyConfused

I have ordered a docking station to see what's up with these 2 old drives. I've been meaning to buy one for ages anyway as I have loads of old drives I would like to grab data from if it's still there.

The old 2.5" drive has made a funny noise occasionally for at least half of its lifetime, which probably totals 8 years. I suspect that's the root of the problem, but I'll know for sure in a few days. Any data that was on there isn't a great loss if so.

I just wanted to say thanks for taking time to reply (and being 100% right about the PSU actually being fine). I have now returned 2 PSUs at my own expense, when I didn't need either of them.

Kudos!

Larryodie

Good Luck

I need to buy a "CADDY" to check some of my hard drives but in the long run , I think that it's best to go to all SSD drives thus no mechanical parts nor any "funny noises"

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