My 27” 165hz VG270Sbmiipx loses portion of screen and goes black at higher frequencies

dariodario

Hi, this started happening a while back but now i’m more bothered about it and want to use 165hz. My screen started glitching about on 165hz on which id reduced the frequency lower and lower and the glitches and black patch would stop. Does anyone have a solution for this. Yes, I have installed a brand new DisplayPort cable capable of over 165hz.

JackE

> >this started happening a while back > >

What is GPU temperature when this happens?

dariodario

GPU temps are around 40-70’C

JackE

> >GPU temps are around 40-70’C> >

Should be a lot higher than 40°C during games, not after or before. What are you using to monitor processor temperatures during game when this happens?

What is your GPU? For example, an nvidia 1660 or 2040 mobile chip or desktop?

dariodario

Hi, my RX 580 4GB tends to idle around 40 but ramps up to 70’ under stress e.g Fortnite or Assetto Corsa. My case fans are always on 10% due to in being quite cold in my room, but I ramp those case fans to around 80% during the summer time as my room gets quite hot. I use Task Manager to monitor these temps.

JackE

> > this started happening a while back but now i’m more bothered about it and want to use 165hz.> > RX 580 4GB > >

Has your RX580 ever achieved 165Hz at any resolution?

dariodario

Yes it has in fact, it ran for a few months fine with no issues but then problems started happening.

JackE

Your the first user I've seen so far who claims to have achieved 165Hz with the 4GB-RX580 GPU. The highest that I saw before your report was 144Hz at FHD resolution from a few other users.

A Win10 update might've caused your issue. These updates occasionally try to update or corrupt original display drivers. So I suggest that you go to this link to download and re-install the monitor's OEM Win10 driver.

dariodario

I am running windows 11, could this be the fault and should I try install that driver still?

billsey

Your monitor needs overclocking to get the 165Hz refresh, the default highest refresh without overclocking is 144Hz. Perhaps a driver update just turned off your overclocking?

JackE

> >I am running windows 11, could this be the fault > >

Depends on if you recall achieving 165Hz before on Win11 or Win10?

dariodario

I’ve reverted to Windows 10, and it’s still happening even after installing driver. I’m installing fresh drivers so will update soon.

William_mk2

@dariodario

If it is still not working then we have to do a refresh and reset

click on start - settings - update and security - recovery - reset this pc - get started 

or 

on start - type here to search - type reset this pc - click on reset this pc on the top  - click on get started 

or

Try windows + r using keyboard
on run window - type systemreset

It will show you keep my files and remove everything
chose keep my files 
chose the account - type the password - click on local reinstall - click on reset 
It will be in progress.. 
login to computer and start using the computer. 
If it is still not working 

click on start - settings - update and security - recovery - reset this pc - get started 
chose remove everything 
click on local reinstall - just remove my files - click on reset
It will be in progress

Note:

If you do refresh ( keep my files ) -  all your personal files like pictures, music , documents , videos  will still be intact.   Only the applications will be lost

If you do reset  ( remove everything )  - you are doing a factory default.   It will become like a day one computer.    It will wipe out everything and take your computer to day one like a new computer. 

You can also do the recovery in an alternative way..

There are two alt keys on the keyboard.  If you look at the bottom row of keyboard you can see the one on the left side of space bar and the other on the right side of space bar.  The alt key on the right side will be looking like alt, alt gr or alt car.  Turn off the computer.  Hold the alt key on the left and tap f10 continuously.   It will go to repair mode. It will show you chose an option, continue, troubleshoot.   If it is not going to repair mode, turn off the computer.  Turn on the computer.  Hold the right alt key ( alt gr or alt car or alt )  and then tap f10 continuously.  It will go to chose an option continue and troubleshoot..

It will show you chose an option, continue, troubleshoot
Go to troubleshoot  -  click on reset this pc
click on keep my files  ( only applications will be lost )   chose your account and type your password   - click on local reinstall  - click on reset
It will be in progress 

If the keep my files option is not working 

Go to troubleshoot  -  click on reset this pc – click on remove everything – click on local reinstall – just remove my files – click on reset 
It will reinstall windows. 

If the just remove my files is not working..

Go to troubleshoot  -  click on reset this pc – click on remove everything – click on local reinstall – Fully clean the drive – click on reset 
It will reinstall windows. 

Note: You can also go to chose an option , continue , troubleshoot by holding the alt key + tapping f10  or alt gr + tapping f10 on the keyboard while turning on the computer.    Once you see the troubleshoot option, you can stop tapping the f10 and stop holding the alt key.    Then you can try the keep my files and remove everything ( just remove by files and fully clean the drive ) by following the steps which was mentioned above. 

JackE

Did you revert to the original Acer OEM factory Win10 version from a factory backup image? Or did you revert to the generic Microsoft Win10 online version using the USB media creation tool? They are NOT the same.

dariodario

I used the generic ISO creation tool, is there a way to refresh and use the Acer OEM backup image?

JackE

Probably not. Generic Win10 & Win11 installations usually overwrite or otherwise block access to the original hidden factory image partition.

You can however still try by using the Acer Care Center recovery tool or the ALT+F10 cold boot method to try to re-install the original factory image. Most folks report getting an error or wind up re-installing the generic version from its own hidden recovery image partition, not the factory recovery image partition.