Predator Orion 3000 (PO3-630) CPU temp up to 91°C - what to do?

You may have to replace the original cooler for a proper one. Acer will say that 90C is still within the normal specks. Sure, the CPU will not suffer from it, but the fans will be loud and the CPU is close to throttling temps.

Please take a look at this and follow the link on that post for even more infotmation.

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1075135#Comment_1075135

I'd change the cooler first and see how it affects the temps. I believe it will be enough, because NH-U9S weighs around 500g without a fan and has tons more heat dissipation area than the original HSF.

If the intake and exhaust fans are too loud after swapping the cooler, I'd go and replace them later.

Liquid cooling would be nice, but since the case is so small, you'll have difficulties installing it. You see, maybe the tubes are too long or don't bend that well etc. Most likely you would have to cut metal and maybe make new holes. Not really worth it in my opinion.

GotBanned said:

I'd change the cooler first and see how it affects the temps. I believe it will be enough, because NH-U9S weighs around 500g without a fan and has tons more heat dissipation area than the original HSF.

If the intake and exhaust fans are too loud after swapping the cooler, I'd go and replace them later.

Liquid cooling would be nice, but since the case is so small, you'll have difficulties installing it. You see, maybe the tubes are too long or don't bend that well etc. Most likely you would have to cut metal and maybe make new holes. Not really worth it in my opinion.

OK for noctua cooler then!

If I change exhaust fan with this (like the other user did) Noctua NF-A9 PWM chromax.Black.Swap, Ventola Silenziosa di qualità Premium, 4-Pin (92 mm, Nero) https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07ZHF2BPB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_E2JZNDGGVVR5TWJT6DK3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd lose 1200 rpm (from stock 3200 to 2000 of noctua). Isn't it risky?

Also, can I use the same fan for the input vent if I want to replace them both?

Thank you!

The fan speeds are controlled automatically just like they are now. You can even keep using PredatorSense. I believe PS has fan presets like silent, normal, overclocking or similar. Can't really remember.

Youtube has good videos how to clean the CPU and apply new thermal paste before installing a new cooler on the CPU.

Don't worry, you'll do just fine. It's not rocket science. ^^

All comments

You may have to replace the original cooler for a proper one. Acer will say that 90C is still within the normal specks. Sure, the CPU will not suffer from it, but the fans will be loud and the CPU is close to throttling temps.

Please take a look at this and follow the link on that post for even more infotmation.

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1075135#Comment_1075135

GotBanned said:

You may have to replace the original cooler for a proper one. Acer will say that 90C is still within the normal specks. Sure, the CPU will not suffer from it, but the fans will be loud and the CPU is close to throttling temps.

Please take a look at this and follow the link on that post for even more infotmation.

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1075135#Comment_1075135

Exactly what I feared: pure denial by Acer Support. I trust you, but just for the pleasure to collect their response I wrote the same issue also to them.

Is cooler + exhaust fans replacements the only things I have to do to solve the overheating problem? Thank you

GotBanned said:

You may have to replace the original cooler for a proper one. Acer will say that 90C is still within the normal specks. Sure, the CPU will not suffer from it, but the fans will be loud and the CPU is close to throttling temps.

Please take a look at this and follow the link on that post for even more infotmation.

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/comment/1075135#Comment_1075135

Would this liquid cooler be okay too for our motherboard and cpu? https://www.amazon.it/dp/B06WRRDS73/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apan_glt_i_ATDRV6XEMP8DWR5189DF?psc=1
Thanks

I'd change the cooler first and see how it affects the temps. I believe it will be enough, because NH-U9S weighs around 500g without a fan and has tons more heat dissipation area than the original HSF.

If the intake and exhaust fans are too loud after swapping the cooler, I'd go and replace them later.

Liquid cooling would be nice, but since the case is so small, you'll have difficulties installing it. You see, maybe the tubes are too long or don't bend that well etc. Most likely you would have to cut metal and maybe make new holes. Not really worth it in my opinion.

GotBanned said:

I'd change the cooler first and see how it affects the temps. I believe it will be enough, because NH-U9S weighs around 500g without a fan and has tons more heat dissipation area than the original HSF.

If the intake and exhaust fans are too loud after swapping the cooler, I'd go and replace them later.

Liquid cooling would be nice, but since the case is so small, you'll have difficulties installing it. You see, maybe the tubes are too long or don't bend that well etc. Most likely you would have to cut metal and maybe make new holes. Not really worth it in my opinion.

OK for noctua cooler then!

If I change exhaust fan with this (like the other user did) Noctua NF-A9 PWM chromax.Black.Swap, Ventola Silenziosa di qualità Premium, 4-Pin (92 mm, Nero) https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07ZHF2BPB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_E2JZNDGGVVR5TWJT6DK3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd lose 1200 rpm (from stock 3200 to 2000 of noctua). Isn't it risky?

Also, can I use the same fan for the input vent if I want to replace them both?

Thank you!

Just start with the cooler swap and see what happens.

Although Noctuas have a lower max RPM, that does not tell the whole picture. These fans move tens of cubic meters of air in an hour and the volume of your PC case is few litres. Arctic makes quite good 92mm fans too, and they are considerably cheaper.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/z8/ok5xdoif3zp7.jpg

Some of the airflow is restricted by the front plastic panel, metal meshes on the case and the HDD shelf behind the intake fan. But even with all these restrictions a lot of air will be moving through the case.

I personally swapped the original fans with slimmer NH-A9x14 PWM fans and was happy with their performance. A good thing about these 14mm fans is that there is more space to install them.

Two of these? Noctua NF-A9 PWM chromax.Black.Swap, Ventola Silenziosa di qualità Premium, 4-Pin (92 mm, Nero) https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07ZHF2BPB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EBRPV63XMXSGP5GTNPWM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

BTW, I'm not a PC expert and I would rather make a 1 time fix to solve everything. I'm afraid I'd have to remove the cooler if a replace the exhaust fan in a second moment.
Thank you very much for your kind support!

No worries, as we all have been there! ^^ There's a first time for everything.

The ones you linked to are 25mm thick and should be fine. Like I mentioned above, I used NH-A9x14, which move less air. BTW, if you don't use that HDD storage shelf/caddy, I'd remove it. If I remember correctly, it's attached by two screws and four rivets (two hidden under the front rubber stand). To remove them, you need a drill.

While you are waiting for the fans and cooler to arrive, search the forum how to remove the plastic front panel. I remember seeing few good guides how to do it.

Take care and hope to hear good news in the form of drastically lowered temps!

Oh, PS: after having replaced the cooler what about its own fan speed management? Does it work automatically? Any software I must use to set working speed or maximum cpu temp? Do I have to access Bios?

The fan speeds are controlled automatically just like they are now. You can even keep using PredatorSense. I believe PS has fan presets like silent, normal, overclocking or similar. Can't really remember.

Youtube has good videos how to clean the CPU and apply new thermal paste before installing a new cooler on the CPU.

Don't worry, you'll do just fine. It's not rocket science. ^^

billsey

Yeah, rocket science usually has older computers...

UPDATE: today I installed the new cooler (Noctua NH-U9S).
I went for the best thermal paste (from 2021 rankings: Thermalright TFX), just to be sur

I did not touch the case fans.

The job was easy, I would say noob-proof, the only thing that got me worried was the past spreading: I used the "butter the toast" method as the paste said (even if I watched enough videos that tested the several methods concluding that nothing changes at all) and its consistence didn't help spreading it. Nothing serious thought.

RESULTS:

CYBERPUNK2077:
Before: case ventilation at maximum (game mode), Cyberpunk 91 degrees at main menu, during gameplay 84-85 at average with 90-91 at short peaks.
After: Case ventilation at minimum (auto mode), Cyberpunk 81 degrees at main manu, during gameplay it stays under 70 )short peaks), at average 64-67 C. I raised RTS effects to Insane setting, nothing changed.

btw, resolution at 1920, because I play on a TV. DLSS On, set on Quality.

BORDERLANDS:
Before: Game Mode, 91 C (!!!!!) during gameplay.
After: Auto mode, same as Cyberpunk, a single peak at 71, 64-65 on average.

CPUZ STRESS TEST:
CPU at 100%: starting peak of 84C, soon after it keeps 60!

IN SHORT: during gameplay I experience 20-25 C less on CPU!
IN SHORTEST: you guys saved my desktop! Thank you so much for your kind help!

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000HKDA0U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Can likely expect huge drops in heat at peak all times. My research shows that this thing performs better the more heat and stress increases. Idle temps at around 32-38 will likely not alter much, but when you throw the load on it, watch out, it's going to amaze, as from the reviews I have read out there. It's an oldie for sure, but they still sell these now, and that says a lot about it. It's designed to work as though it has 6 heat pipes, which it does at the connection point, but they did a figure 8 with three pipes. 100% cooper!

For anyone searching around these days for the best replacement heatsink and fan for the i5 or i7 systems, I came across this one. I ordered it but have not installed it yet, however, it is designed to fit LGA11XX which is the same as LGA1200 for the screw holes on the boards. I'll update the post when I do this eventually, but something to consider for those looking.

Because they designed this heat-sink to work on many models with their mounting kit which requires to pull the system apart and put in a new plate, I have not had the time to pull the system apart yet to confirm everything, but do not pay attention to the Amazon sizes listed for these. In the pics, you see the true size of it, by clicking on one of the actual images to bring it up in a popup window, there is the actual size listed there. Even appears that you will be able to have all RAM sticks in with this one. Below is vid and below that's the amazon listing. For 50$ total Canadian, it's a steal!

Images with size

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ZALMAN-CNPS-9500-AT-Processor-cooler-for-LGA775-LGA1156-LGA1366-LGA1155-LGA1150-LGA1200-copper-92-mm/23141221

I found a couple sites that show it is supported with LGA 1200, so those out there that may feel hesitant about the Amazon listing and newegg listing, Walmart US shows the 1200 support and another site I fond does too. I only put the walmart in below, though.

At time of post, all others selling this at 80-150 but Amazon has it on for 44 right now. Get it for that price while you can!!

StevenGen

Pippino said:

Hi, I've just bought a new Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 with 11th generation CPU (11700f), 32 Gb ram, RTX3070.
The CPU goes up to 91 only for starting Cyberpunk and staying on the main menu. During gameplay with CPU at about 50% it keeps 86°C with peaks of 90°C. FPS are fine, but I haven't dared to play long with that temp to avoid cooking CPU!

Wanna laugh? If I play Borderlands (a game from 2009!!!) it peaks 91°degrees with an usage of 20-30% of CPU. Nothing changes if I run those with the case-tower side opened and removed!

(Ventilation was set in GAME mode, btw)

Before using GAME mode (useless for my issue) this happened: yesterday, after a few hours of Borderlands, CPU must has gone in self-protection because I experienced a drastical drop of FPS (under 30fps). I checked CPU temp and it was 91°C, so I switched the fans to GAME mode, from AUTO mode (and I heard a noticeable and loudy fan speed increase, hence they were going slow before manual switching). No matter what I had to exit the game for it to cool off. And I ask myself what's the AUTO mode for, if it can't detect a heat danger and increase fans speed to the required speed?

Basically I've bought a pre-built desktop made for gaming and it can't run a game from 2009 without risking to cook the CPU (91°C).

What should I do? Does any of you had a positive experience with Acer Technical Support and Customer care?

Thank you!

PS: Basically I want it repaired or a substitution with a new not-overheating unit. Otherwise I would like my money back since those performances are not-compliant with a gaming desktop and unhealthy for the processor and motherboard.
Only as a last desperate attempt (in case Acer support denies the issue) I would try a technical solution by myself, maybe replacing CPU dissipator...but I have no idea about what to do. Any advice?

Seeing that your Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 with 11th generation CPU (11700f), 32 Gb ram, RTX3070. is under warranty and only new I would NOT touch it and/or open it and/or change anything on it, send it back to Acer Service in your area and tell them about the overheating issues and that there could be something wrong with either the CPU paste or its fan and/or case fans, as opening this desktop could void your warranty and Acer will reject your service call. Also and as its advised in the comments, Acer’s fans and cooling solutions are at best very average and not of the highest quality for a 10th or 11th Gen i7 CPU and especially with an RTX-3070Ti that pushes it further and therefore you will need to upgrade to the superior CPU cooling solution like the Noctua NH-U9S series (that fits as another community member has fitted to a PO3-6xx) type dry cooling or fitting a superior AIO water cooling like the Gigabyte Waterforce and also upgrading to the Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm superior and quitter case fans for your Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 to operate at optimal temps while gaming and general use.

Btw and just as an example as I speak from experience with a much more intense and higher end system, as I’ve just built an AMD Ryzen 9 desktop system with the 5950X CPU a similar Gigabyte RTX-3070Ti 8GB Eagle and 64GB DDR4-4000 RAM and I’m using the excellent Gigabyte Waterforce AIO 360mm water cooler and 3x Noctua NF-F12 PWM case fans (btw I don’t go for all that RGB nonsense the only RGB on this system is the Gigabyte 3x GPU and Waterforce 3x fans that I had no control over). Also and note, that this in due that I play hard core games and use very intensive CPU and GPU demanding software and I have no problems with overheating so this is just an example of what can be done with higher end cooling components to control overheating.

if those readings are happening in the actual predator sense, this it right, send it back for repair under warranty. However, 100-105 is within the intel specs before the CPU shuts off. So it's normal and mines does this too, but only in other sensor programs, predator sense shows it at 55 when it is actually at 100. They use stock and thatis not ideal for turbo boost running all the time. For now till I replace the heatsink and fan, I set 99% max in the power management. It still performs excellent with this setting and stays at around 50 when load is on.

StevenGenif those readings are happening in the actual predator sense, this it right, send it back for repair under warranty. However, 100-105 is within the intel specs before the CPU shuts off. So it's normal and mines does this too, but only in other sensor programs, predator sense shows it at 55 when it is actually at 100. They use stock and thatis not ideal for turbo boost running all the time. For now till I replace the heatsink and fan, I set 99% max in the power management. It still performs excellent with this setting and stays at around 50 when load is on. said:

Pippino said:

Hi, I've just bought a new Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 with 11th generation CPU (11700f), 32 Gb ram, RTX3070.
The CPU goes up to 91 only for starting Cyberpunk and staying on the main menu. During gameplay with CPU at about 50% it keeps 86°C with peaks of 90°C. FPS are fine, but I haven't dared to play long with that temp to avoid cooking CPU!

Wanna laugh? If I play Borderlands (a game from 2009!!!) it peaks 91°degrees with an usage of 20-30% of CPU. Nothing changes if I run those with the case-tower side opened and removed!

(Ventilation was set in GAME mode, btw)

Before using GAME mode (useless for my issue) this happened: yesterday, after a few hours of Borderlands, CPU must has gone in self-protection because I experienced a drastical drop of FPS (under 30fps). I checked CPU temp and it was 91°C, so I switched the fans to GAME mode, from AUTO mode (and I heard a noticeable and loudy fan speed increase, hence they were going slow before manual switching). No matter what I had to exit the game for it to cool off. And I ask myself what's the AUTO mode for, if it can't detect a heat danger and increase fans speed to the required speed?

Basically I've bought a pre-built desktop made for gaming and it can't run a game from 2009 without risking to cook the CPU (91°C).

What should I do? Does any of you had a positive experience with Acer Technical Support and Customer care?

Thank you!

PS: Basically I want it repaired or a substitution with a new not-overheating unit. Otherwise I would like my money back since those performances are not-compliant with a gaming desktop and unhealthy for the processor and motherboard.
Only as a last desperate attempt (in case Acer support denies the issue) I would try a technical solution by myself, maybe replacing CPU dissipator...but I have no idea about what to do. Any advice?

Seeing that your Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 with 11th generation CPU (11700f), 32 Gb ram, RTX3070. is under warranty and only new I would NOT touch it and/or open it and/or change anything on it, send it back to Acer Service in your area and tell them about the overheating issues and that there could be something wrong with either the CPU paste or its fan and/or case fans, as opening this desktop could void your warranty and Acer will reject your service call. Also and as its advised in the comments, Acer’s fans and cooling solutions are at best very average and not of the highest quality for a 10th Gen i7 CPU with an RTX-3070Ti and therefore you will need to upgrade to the superior CPU cooling solution like the Noctua NH-U9S series (that fits as another community member has fitted to a PO3-6xx) type dry cooling or fitting a superior AIO water cooling like the Gigabyte Waterforce and also upgrading to the Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm superior and quitter case fans for your Predator Orion 3000 PO3-630 to operate at optimal temps while gaming and general use.

Btw and just as an example as I speak from experience with a much more intense and higher end system, as I’ve just built an AMD Ryzen 9 desktop system with the 5950X CPU and the same RTX-3070Ti and 64GB DDR4-4000 RAM and I’m using the excellent Gigabyte Waterforce AIO 360mm water cooler and 3x Noctua NF-F12 PWM case fans (btw I don’t go for all that RGB nonsense the only RGB on this system is the Gigabyte Waterforce 3x fans). Also and note, that this in due that I play hard core games and use very intensive CPU and GPU demanding software and I have no problems with overheating so this is just an example of what can be done with higher end cooling components to control overheating.

if those readings are happening in the actual predator sense, this it right, send it back for repair under warranty. However, 100-105 is within the intel specs before the CPU shuts off. So it's normal and mines does this too, but only in other sensor programs, predator sense shows it at 55 when it is actually at 100. They use stock and thatis not ideal for turbo boost running all the time. For now till I replace the heatsink and fan, I set 99% max in the power management. It still performs excellent with this setting and stays at around 50 when load is on.

FYI the one I posted above other than the one he recommends, it works better than a water cooling CPU. Everyone recommends the Noctua NH-U9S because they have it in theirs, but I know as a professional IT person, the Zalman is better. I just need to prove it on the posts once I have the pics and install guide