e5-774g-503h wifi network adapter

DaveInOttawa
DaveInOttawa Member Posts: 7

Tinkerer

Would like to upgrade the wireless AC network adapter to a Wifi 6 model, but does anyone know the form factor of the wifi adapter in the e5-774g-503h?

I've had the laptop open before, but I'd rather not open it up again unless I absolutely have to, in order to determine the adapter form factor.

Answers

  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,868 Trailblazer
    It's an m.2 form factor socket. AKA next generation form factor (NGFF) socket. Same form factor as an m.2 SSD card socket.  However, the wifi NGFF socket's pinout & keyslots are the most important considerations. They should be the same as the following part nos for your E5 if you're shopping around for wifi cards other than those certified/tested to work in your mainboard. Some higher performance cards might not work properly even if they fit the socket. 




    Jack E/NJ

  • DaveInOttawa
    DaveInOttawa Member Posts: 7

    Tinkerer

    Excellent, thanks for the quick response.  So it appears form factor-wise, the item below will fit the socket, but hasn't been certified/tested and may not work for reasons of hardware/software compatibility.


  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,868 Trailblazer
    The pinouts and screw hold-downs positions clearly aren't the same. It might fit the m.2 socket but the pinouts don't match the corresponding socket wires and can't be held down properly to make good contact anyway. If it were mine, I would not attempt to use the one on the right.

    Jack E/NJ

  • DaveInOttawa
    DaveInOttawa Member Posts: 7

    Tinkerer

    Good catch, Jack - thank you.  I have acquiesced, and ordered the DWA-X1850 Wifi 6 USB adapter.  I'll just have to teach my wife how to enable/disable the internal adapter.  The laptop only needs fat bandwidth when it's being used in one area of the home, the internal adapter will be fine everywhere else.  Cheers and thanks for the advice.
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,868 Trailblazer
    >>> The laptop only needs fat bandwidth when it's being used in one area of the home>>>

    Hold on!  Sounds like speed reduction is primarily due to weak signal/antenna orientation, not due to the old adapter's bandwidth capability. You'd probably be better off with a router repeater to increase signal strength in the house with the least hassle. The USB wifi's are notorious for having poor antenna gain. Having wifi adapter with bigger bandwidth doesn't mean much if its antenna gain is poor --- it'll also reduce its speed considerably with low signal strength.

    Jack E/NJ

  • DaveInOttawa
    DaveInOttawa Member Posts: 7

    Tinkerer

    I already have a mesh wifi 6 system (router + two satellites).  I have a satellite not 8 feet from the laptop, but it's struggling to keep a reliable connection when my wife is using videoconferencing on the E5 laptop.  When I bring my laptop (Acer Nitro 5 w/wifi 6) into the same room, it's rock solid and fast.  My internet is 1 Gbps FTTH, and the E5 laptop struggles to get above 200 Mbps speed tests at the best of times.

    It's not an OS issue, or a driver issue - the laptop is relatively recently reimaged.  I'm beginning to wonder if perhaps the antenna wire is busted, or the internal wifi adapter is on its last legs.  I'll find out tomorrow when the DWA-X1850 arrives.
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,868 Trailblazer
    >>> I'm beginning to wonder if perhaps the antenna wire is busted, >>>

    I think you're wondering pretty good. The mini-coax and -connectors are  flimsy & fragile. The only reservation I have with this kind of wondering is that you also said

    >>>>>> The laptop only needs fat bandwidth when it's being used in one area of the home>>>>>>

    which sorta misled me to believe it was consistently OK in other parts of the  house.

    Jack E/NJ

  • DaveInOttawa
    DaveInOttawa Member Posts: 7

    Tinkerer

    Okay, lots of troubleshooting done.  

    I moved the satellite into the same room as where the laptop will be used.  It gets maximum ~250 Mbps using the internal AC network adapter.  It gets reasonably good speed at other locations in the home, so I think I can rule out a broken antenna.

    I get 700-750 Mbps using an ethernet cable to the satellite.

    I got the DWA-X1850.  Installed the drivers, and then disabled the internal adapter via Device Mangler.  Plugged it into the blue USB 3.0 ports on the left side of the laptop.  Lots of device connection/disconnection dings from the speaker.  So I did the same again, but had device manager open.  One of the USB 3.0 ports refused to connect to it, while the other one did a few connect/disconnects and then eventually connected.  Set up the wifi password.  Connected fine to the router.  Speed test shows max 250 Mbps no matter where I am in the house.

    So, I suspected a problem with the USB ports or drivers.  Installed the USB Device Tree Viewer.  Shows the DWA-X1850 connected, but the Device Bus Speed is listed as 0x02, or USB 2.  Refuses to connect at USB 3.0/Super speed, even after rebooting.

    So I wondered about the USB 3.1 port (USB C).  I had a USB A female to USB C male adapter cable (USB 3.1 gen 1 rated), so I plugged the DWA-X1850 into the USB-C port.  Device bus speed 2.  Rebooted.  Device bus speed 3 (Super speed), finally.  It gives me 550-650 Mbps over wifi.

    But it doesn't always connect at bus speed 3.  Sometimes it does, sometimes it needs a reboot.  Sometimes it just needs to be unplugged and plugged back in again.

    So now I'm thinking USB drivers.  Listed as Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft).  I don't see any USB drivers on the Acer website, and Intel says they discontinued this driver with Win 7 (it's built into every OS after that).

    Scratching my head here...
  • JackE
    JackE ACE Posts: 44,868 Trailblazer
    >>>I don't see any USB drivers on the Acer website>>>

    That's because they're now part of the i/o and/or chipset packages.

    You might first want to try uninstalling the controller's driver. Then exit Device Manager without re-installing anything. Then shut down Windows normally. Then turn it back on an let windows auto detect the controller and auto install a fresh copy of its driver to see what happens.


    Jack E/NJ