My Predator Helios 300 G3-571 is better than a radiator, change my mind?

I've had this laptop for 1 year and 3 months, the temps were acceptable. I've had an issue with predator sense not opening that had to be fixed with a windows fresh restart. Now, that issue is gone but I've gained the ability to boil water... Note: Haven't modified hardware, just once cleaned the fans w/air compressor (also known as lungs).

Specs:
Acer predator Helios 300 G3-571 (2017 version)
Intel Core i7-7700HQ @2.80GHz
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB(GP106M/N17P-G1)
8x2GB DDR4-2400
Windows 10 Home Build 1803
Nvidia driver 388.31
Other drivers downloaded from acer website/stock versions.

I am using throttlestop 8.70 to undervolt and have been using it before the reset, worked fine before. Now if I dare to open let's say Overwatch, the temps go +90°C with fans set to max, undervolt, laptop lifted from behind to make air flow,... just in the menu, that's right, without even playing the game. When reached a certain temperature, normally about 92 the laptop says **** off and freezes the system with a beautiful static sound that lasts a few seconds, no BSOD or error message, never ever.

Actual ThrottleStop Configuration:

Windows is optimized following Hotel Hero's video.

Processor power management --> Maximum processor state: Set at 75%

No game overlays, recorders,...

HWiNFO's screenshot of a 2-minute test playing overwatch w/undervolt + max fans (with coolboost), all the maximum values were achieved from idle to gaming in 2min, then I quitted the game before the pc froze to avoid losing this post omegalol:
Note (idk if relevant): Before window's reset max GPU clock speed achieved was about 1,4GHz not overclocked, now it goes +1,7GHz not overclocked.

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Outside's temperature 11°C, cold, but I'm sweating thanks to Acer.

I really don't know what to do, help is really appreciated.

Accepted answers

All comments

JackE

Sounds like the thermal module needs to come off. And the heat sinks pasted to make better GPU & CPU thermal contact. Jack E/NJ

sri369

Can you try the links in my signature to undervolt your GPU? Also, try creating a custom power plan with lazy core parking; this might help. But it also seems like you need a repasting (but this is worth a try before you head that route).

BetterThanARadiator

sri369 said:

Can you try the links in my signature to undervolt your GPU? Also, try creating a custom power plan with lazy core parking; this might help. But it also seems like you need a repasting (but this is worth a try before you head that route).

I've just followed the second post, will proceed to undervolting the GPU. This is via msi afterburner, isn't it?

BetterThanARadiator

No luck, it made no difference. I guess I'd have to repaste

sri369

Screenshot and post your MSI curves, and usage graph covering CPU temp, GPU temp, GPU core clock, GPU temp, GPU utilization.
Are you sure you enabled MSI? The settings/changes you make need to be applied, and turn on "auto start with windows" option. The settings would apply only as long as MSI is open. So keep this program open at all times, minimized to tray.

reaLEtyx

@BetterThanARadiator
I'v pretty much had your exact same problem for over a year now and have found no solution of lowering the temperatures under 90 while under intense long gaming sessions. If you do find a result/fix can you please help me out?

BetterThanARadiator

sri369 said:

Screenshot and post your MSI curves, and usage graph covering CPU temp, GPU temp, GPU core clock, GPU temp, GPU utilization.
Are you sure you enabled MSI? The settings/changes you make need to be applied, and turn on "auto start with windows" option. The settings would apply only as long as MSI is open. So keep this program open at all times, minimized to tray.

3-minute test from idle, of Overwatch at 1080 low settings, undervolted, fans maxed:

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/m4/0lz0k6av72no.png

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/an/sf29ac8jw3mx.png

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6029997/uploads/editor/uw/50wcpe9db3xs.png

Stopped the test because this is already the second test I made, 2 degrees more and it would've frozen. I still believe Windows had something to do with this, just because it all happened with the clean reset...

JackE

A full ALT+F10 cold boot factory reset will return the Windows system to as shipped from the factory. Accordingly, this sounds like the thermal module needs to come off. And the heat sinks pasted to make better GPU & CPU thermal contact. Did I just hear an echo?

Jack E/NJ

BetterThanARadiator

JackE said:

this sounds like the thermal module needs to come off. And the heat sinks pasted to make better GPU & CPU thermal contact.

I'm close to buying needed products to repaste both. But I still don't understand what you mean with "the thermal module needs to come off" sry x)

JackE

After the screws are removed and the case bottom is popped off, the fan thermal module is what must come off. It's held on by 11 screws. You can't miss it nor the GPU or CPU chips on the right side of the main board. Jack E/NJ

BetterThanARadiator

Oh god my fault, I couldn't catch what you were saying because I was thinking of "come off" as to happen/success,... lol

And yes, I knew that from before thanks to Red-Sand's tutorial.

Thanks a lot for the help, will post results once I repaste it... we will see.

JackE

Good luck! Hope you can pull it off! Successfully!

Jack E/NJ

xapim

Yup definitely need a repaste it's advisable to repaste it at least once every year because it's a gaming laptop the components heat up much more that a normal laptop this is why its advisable at least once a year with a good thermal paste like for ex kryonaut or another non conductive with similar specs

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