RAM MEMORY SPEED UPGRADE Predator Helios 500 PH517-61

Commodore_1995#

@GlitchedAtBirth Check here:
https://youtu.be/pjkac5hq_Wk

I think that all ram sockets support at least 2666mhz.

GlitchedAtBirth

Thank you for linking the video.  I've seen the diagram you posted before and I was mostly curious that if I were to only populate the two "B" channel DIMMS that it would (or rather should, since we can never guarantee anything) run at the full 2666 speed?  Basically I'm wanting to know if it doesn't matter if the two sticks are in channel "A" or in Channel "B" as long as only ONE of the channels is populated and not both?  If I ONLY populate channel "B" with my RAM DIMMS, will it give me the same performance as if I were to use Channel "A"??? Is there anything particularly special about Channel "A" that would give some sort of advantage than if I used Channel "B" or are they completely identical (AS LONG AS ONLY ONE OF THE TWO CHANNELS IS POPULATED)?? 

As far as I'm aware, if both channels ARE populated, the DIMMS in Channel "A" are used for their JEDEC tables in those DIMMS regardless of the quality/spec/speed of the JEDEC rating of the DIMMS in Channel "B" is currently the only actual reason to populate A over B, correct???  Or is there another advantage over populating Channel "A" instead??  I don't plan to install more than 64gb of RAM, so I will only be populating one channel.  The ONLY way I would install more is IF a good quality 32gb SINGLE RANK SODIMM is made available that makes it possible of installing 128gb at 2400mhz instead of topping out at 2133.. But it likely will quite some time before this is possible, and not likely to be of any benefit to me unless I ocasionally reach my limits of my available RAM..

GlitchedAtBirth

deksman2 said:

I found a REDDIT post regarding the disassembly (and accessing the extra memory modules) : 

Repasting the CPU / GPU was surprisingly easy but wasn't worth it.

I gained 5 degrees C under load on the CPU at best. No real change on the GPU from what I can tell but it ran cool anyway. Used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

It's a lot of screws but they're all the same length. Procedure is:

1. Remove 2 screws holding the access panel

2. Remove the access panel

3. Remove ALL the black screws on the underside of the machine

4. Remove 2.5" SATA cage

5. Remove SSD shield / all SSDs and Battery

6. Remove SATA cable from motherboard if attached (gently pull up on the little handle on the connector)

7. Remove 2 small 3 pin connectors that connect the bottom case to the motherboard (subwoofer / speaker connectors)

8. Carefully remove the bottom cover of the laptop. No clips, so just go slow and be gentle.

9. Loosen the screws holding the CPU / GPU cooler in reverse order (they are numbered, start with the highest number)

10. Remove fan cables and pull the cooler gently up. Careful of the thermal pads!

Again, not really worth it, but nice to know it's easy for when the paste dries out.

Accessing the RAM under the motherboard was not hard either

Follow the above procedure and disconnect all the ribbon cables from the motherboard. They're all flip-up ribbon cable clamps and are extremely easy. Motherboard is only held on by 2 screws once you have the CPU / GPU cooler off. Just make sure you plug everything back in!

I could consider doing this myself as it forgoes complete teardown which shouldn't be necessary to reach the RAM slots).

Any chance you could post a link to this Reddit thread??

Also, do you think it might be at all possible to be able to remove the 2 original (back side) sticks of RAM without having to completely remove the heatsink?  As in, could the heatsink remain screwed on the board, and still be able to get the board to a point it can be lifted JUST ENOUGH that there is space to be able to just REMOVE the sticks??  I want to attempt populating the two "B" channel DIMMs with 2x32gb 2666 and leave "A" empty.  I just need to get just enough space to be able to disconnect and remove those 2 DIMMs, and won't need the extra space normally needed to put in new DIMMs in their place..  Do you feel that this is at all possible or are there necessary connectors/screws/attachments that hold the board in place that can only be accessed after the heatsink is completely removed, making it impossible to remove the DIMMs with the heatsink still attached?? You have the first hand experience, so I trust your judgement..

Commodore_1995#

This video explains in more detail:

https://youtu.be/wL8sIJEDMUE

GlitchedAtBirth

egydiocoelho said:

This video explains in more detail:

https://youtu.be/wL8sIJEDMUE

So actually ended up having this video playing while I was disassembling the system, as well as having that collection of photos from, what I'm assuming, is some sort of Acer tech manual posted earlier.  While the video is of the Intel variant, both are nearly identical in how they are constructed and there really wasn't anything in it that confused me or made me mess up since, luckily, there wasn't any instance where, for example, they might require on one variant to be done in A, B, C, D order, but on the other variant it had to be A, C, B, D order, so luckily this video can be followed by Helios 500 owners in general regardless of which version.

So, here is an update as to what I've experienced so far....  I disassembled nearly the entire system and removed the stock RAM from the underside (channel A) DIMMs and removed the stock Killer 1550 WiFi m.2 networking card.  I then installed a Killer 1650 m.2 WiFi card as an upgrade and installed my new 2x32GB 2666 Hyper X SoDIMMs into the 2 DIMMs accessible when you simply remove the back plate (channel , hoping that if "channel A" was left empty, I could populate B for convenience (also wondering if there is any temp difference for one side over the other)..  So after getting the system to post and boot, i check my RAM and see (according to CPUZ) that I'm running at 1063 or roughly at 2133...  No bueno... Assume that this result is because I used "Channel B"... COMPLETELY disassemble again, remove the DIMMs out of "channel B" and get them into "Channel A", repaste my CPU and GPU, reassemble... No change...  After much stress, was able to manually get it running at 2400 at 16 16 16 thru Ryzen Master, but can't get it to the 2666 speeds I was so excited to be able to reach that the diagram alluded to... Since then, have poked around, checking if it was a result of not doing something correctly or if I overlooked anything, but ultimately it makes me question the diagram.  Saw another post elsewhere that IS definitively from the -61 version's documentation that seems to allude to 2400 being the top speed for the AMD version... So then, is that diagram exactly from the ph517-61 manual, or is it from the -51 tech manual/specs, or, if it IS in the AMD version's specs, was it simply copied over directly from the -51 to the -61 but the data is only fully applicable to the -51 and the necessary edits not getting made were just an oversight???

The previously posted diagram reads like this:

1 of 2/CH (xR-0) : SR(2667), DR(2400-2667)MT/s

2 of 2/CH (1R-1R): 2133-2400 MT/s

2 of 2/CH (2R-xR): 1866-2133 MT/s

(going to put my personal interpretation of exactly what I believe it's saying in parentheses. If I'm misinterpreting, someone PLEASE show me where I've screwed up) To me, this says that Chan 1 of 2 (interpreting that as long as 1 channel, not both, is occupied) xR-0 (interpreted as it doesn't matter what Rank (single or dual) the DIMMs are, but only that one is occupied and that the other channel is empty) : SR (2667) , DR (2400-2667) MT/s (i'm interpreting this as "if its single rank DIMMs, then JEDEC 2667 is the speed it will run, but if it's dual rank it will run off either JEDEC specs for 2400 to 2667). then the others with 2 of 2/CH are for if both channels, as in 4 DIMMs, are occupied then if both are single rank, you get 2133 to 2400 and if you have dual rank exclusively or a mix of dual and single rank, you top out at 1866-2133 speeds. Ultimately, this leads me to believe that it's completely possible to upgrade my RAM, regardless of single or dual rank, as long as I only occupied either channel A or B, used DIMMs that had the appropriate JEDEC tables for 2666 specifically, not anything higher or lower, and the system would go off the built in SPD tables and simply run at 2666mhz stock.  This made me think that I could get a 2x32GB JEDEC 2666 kit to achieve 2666 (1333mhz) speed AND have 64GB at a higher speed than others using the method Acer says to get 64GB by using 4x16GB DIMMs. While SOME using this method still had the stock 2400 their stock RAM ran at, most saw that by occupying 4 DIMMs they were also getting a speed reduction ranging from 1866-2133mhz, and sometimes even much lower in very rare scenarios.  When the table shown above was posted, from how I have interpreted the information, this seemed to explained why some experienced one scenario while another person would have a completely different outcome.  Now, as I also saw that RAM rated for 2666 was also used in this model's memory testing, I assume this means that 2666 speeds are possible and that the stock RAM only ran at a slower 2400 bc the JEDEC 2400 SPD tables are what are programmed in. 

knowing that I purchased high quality performance RAM that has specifically JEDEC 2666 rating and 2666 SPD tables, and installed them both in the "A" and "B" channels but the system initially clocked down to the 2133 speed and not even 2400, I'm very confused...  Thoughts?? Suggestions?? Did I misinterpret something???  Any help/guidance, and any methods known to achieve 2666 would be VERY appreciated.  I'm NOT going to return them, UNLESS they fail and it's unavoidable, I got them for a KILLER Black Friday sale price that likely won't be repeated anytime soon and they are both functioning and will just use alternative means to get higher speeds if possible.

GlitchedAtBirth

Oh, concerning the upgrade from the stock Killer 1550ac to the Killer 1650ax, if you are contemplating if you should upgrade or not, if there would even be much noticeable difference, I can say with complete certainty, it’s a HUGE difference!!! Not necessarily in speed, but in connection stability and distance, ESPECIALLY when you are in a place where there is a LOT of WiFi network traffic. As a bonus, I didn’t even have to reinstall anything as it detected the new card correctly and everything was working as it should when I booted for the first time after completing the swap. 

GlitchedAtBirth

One last tidbit to add, just because I never received a reply when I asked previously. When disassembling the system, it’s ABSOLUTELY possible to leave the heat pipe assembly attached and access the RAM on the underside of the board. What you need to do, after you’ve gotten to where you’ve removed the fans and disconnected all the tiny ribbon cables and connectors (there are a few hidden cables attached under the heat pipes, so this does make add an extra layer of difficulty for disassembly and reassembly), instead of COMPLETELY unscrewing the heat pipe assembly around the CPU and GPU, you unscrew it JUST enough to make sure none of those were acting as an anchor to the laptop chassis and simply just be VERY careful to makes sure you’ve gotten every cable or screw keeping the motherboard attached before attempting to lift it up to get underneath. Also, it is possible to upgrade the WiFi card without removing the heat pipe also, but, again, it just requires extra care, patience, and (while not necessarily required, is a big advantage) steady hands. Once you’ve removed its mounting screw, you just carefully slide it out. Remove the 2 antenna cables, and I recommend to attach them on the new card at this point vs attempting to attach them after putting the new card in the slot because the heat pipe in the way doesn’t give much room to get those tiny connections properly attached. 

With the technique I used to keep the heat pipes attached, I was able to spare myself from having to repaste as least 4, maybe 5, times as there wouldn’t have been much choice for me otherwise since I had to repeatedly get to the board’s underside. 

ALSO, BE FOREWARNED!! After you are at the point where you should be capable of simply lifting the board out, there is a plastic “guide” of sorts on the chassis that is going thru a hole in the board located near the USB c ports that is putting enough force on the board that it can feel like you missed a screw or connector and could possibly cause someone to damage their board while attempting to either remove it or getting it back into its proper place. As this was the part of the whole process where I felt I was at greatest risk of causing damage to my motherboard, and hadn’t seen any mention of it in anyone else’s posts where the subject of removing the motherboard was addressed, I felt that I needed to at least make sure I included it somewhere in mine. Hopefully, if someone uses my posts for their own tear down, they won’t be unaware of it and know where it is and what they are looking for. If I ever need to fully take it apart again, I’m going to thoroughly check to see what exactly this small “guide” is doing and how it benefits the system and also if it is ultimately capable of being removed without causing a major problem. There were a couple times that I truly felt like I was on the verge of cracking or snapping the board from the pressure I needed to use to either remove it or get it reseated....

Commodore_1995#

@GlitchedAtBirth About the screws, you can point out in this photo, what were the screws that you removed to disconnect the wlan?
About the other question, are you referring to this here?

GlitchedAtBirth

The screw I was referring to when talking about removing the WiFi card is just merely the screw on the end of it that’s holding it down. It’s partially obstructed by the heat pipe that goes directly over it, but it’s got a decent gap between itself and the pipe, so it’s not difficult to remove at all. 

And as far as from looking at the photo of under the board, it appears that only one of those screws for the whole heat pipe assembly goes thru into the chassis: the one located in the bottom right of the GPU, but could possibly be the bottom left of the CPU, at least that’s my best estimation from trying to gauge from the photo.. as I don’t see another nearby point where a screw could be anchoring the motherboard from, unless I’m simply not noticing another.... so it would seem that would be the only one that really needs to be loosened. But I could be completely wrong and the heat pipe screws don’t anchor the board at all and are technically not imperative to remove at all. Again, be mindful of the ribbon cables connected UNDER the heat pipes when it is still attached, as you won’t see them if only looking from above. 

GlitchedAtBirth

Oh, and as far as that part that made it difficult to take out and reinsert the motherboard is this TINY tab located near the bottom third of the circled area of the picture.  Its REALLY small, but it, combined with some of the posts that various screws that go thru the motherboard fit onto, pretty much prevent the board from being taken out or put back easily..  I was VERY tempted to just snap off that tiny tab because I really didn't see any problems that would occur if it was removed.  But I decided against it, just in case I was wrong and was just too tired to deal with it..  My only thought is that it makes sure that the port holes line up with the mounted ports on the motherboard on that side.

GlitchedAtBirth

so after doing a bit of research... It seems that with 4 DIMM sockets on the motherboard, dual rank maxes out at 2400.  IF there were only 2 DIMM sockets on the motherboard, THEN we could get the 2666 with dual rank, but not with 4. Any faster is only achievable thru overclocking, unfortunately.  So until we see 32gb SoDIMM's we won't be able to get the 2666 speeds on this system.. At least until we can get the Zen 2 or 3 AGESA... As this is all determined by the memory controller on the CPU...  Until then, I can live with 64GB RAM at 16-16-16-32...

evolucion888

I decided to fiddle with Vega 56 HBCC cache as I had been playing Horizon Zero Dawn and noticed that 16GB is barely enough for that game. So I purchased to new memory modules that are the same model as the stock ones. (SK Hynix HMA81GS6AFR8N-UH) and noticed that the RAM speed dropped to 2,133MHz, causing minor hitching during gameplay. So I launched the Ryzen Master system and manually dialed up the RAM back to 2,400MHz but then the CPU XFR2 wouldn't work, so I clicked on restore defaults, rebooted and voila. The RAM was still at 2,400MHz and the CPU XFR2 started to work again. The BIOS is very finnicky when reading RAM modules even when they are from the same model, along with the fact that you can't update the Ryzen Master Software with the AMD stock one as it would break the Predator Sense functionality. I haven't checked on this since almost a year ago. Acer needs to do better integration with the OEM drivers as if you also do a clean install of the AMD graphic drivers, Freesync wouldn't no longer work, requiring manual input through the CRU tool. I suspect is more of a Windows/OEM integration issue than anything else but unnaceptable with the kind of money that these beasts cost. But overall still in love with it. Amazing performance on the go, while having the Ryzen 3900XT/Radeon VII in my desktop when needing a bit more of oomph in software and games. 

bobzdar

There is a newer predator sense that allows using the latest (at least as of the spring) ryzen master, but it doesn't unlock anything useful.  There's also a new bios available via windows update but no idea what changes it has.  I kind of gave up on acer actually supporting any updated cpus or ram speeds and gave it to my son and bought a zephyrus g14, which beats it at about 1/3 the weight with a 10 hour battery instead of a 1 hour battery... That said I'd plop a 3700x and some 3000mhz ram in it if it could actually leverage it to give it another year or two of relevancy.  It had a lot of unfulfilled promise but ultimately not worth the lack of both portability and battery life anymore.  Sad as really just a few bios updates would still have it relevant. 

GlitchedAtBirth

bobzdar said:

There is a newer predator sense that allows using the latest (at least as of the spring) ryzen master, but it doesn't unlock anything useful.  There's also a new bios available via windows update but no idea what changes it has.  I kind of gave up on acer actually supporting any updated cpus or ram speeds and gave it to my son and bought a zephyrus g14, which beats it at about 1/3 the weight with a 10 hour battery instead of a 1 hour battery... That said I'd plop a 3700x and some 3000mhz ram in it if it could actually leverage it to give it another year or two of relevancy.  It had a lot of unfulfilled promise but ultimately not worth the lack of both portability and battery life anymore.  Sad as really just a few bios updates would still have it relevant. 

Personally, I'm a desktop kind of guy, but as I'm not always in one place, it's not convenient to be hauling around a desktop everywhere, which is why this "Beast" was (initially) as if an answer to my prayers.  Essentially desktop parts that were reshaped and crammed into a laptop form factor, but also not ignoring or skimping out on handling the thermal issues that desktop parts bring to the situation.  The last laptop I had rarely ever wasn't plugged in as when I'm working, I'm going to be in one general area, typically with a main "desk" area where my computer will live, so battery life simply was never a factor in my decision when shopping around for a computer.  It's an extremely honest and sad truth you said about this system having a lot of unfulfilled promise and I would add a LOT of WASTED potential to that description.  With an updated AGESA, even if it's to a Zen 2 generation AGESA, the amount of performance gains would be HUGE.  An upgrade to a Zen 2 CPU would bring SO MUCH more to the table, mainly the better memory controller, but all the huge gains that Zen 2 had in general over Zen and Zen+ make a huge impact. Obviously, you can personally vouch for the performance of a MOBILE version of Zen 2 compared to this DESKTOP Zen + CPU, and one can simply wonder how a DESKTOP Zen 2 in the Helios would be running circles around the original configuration... Knowing what this "laptop" is currently capable of (especially when properly configured and really pushed) and compare it with what else is available even today, it really would be capable of regaining lost ground quick, so to speak. Even the video card has remained a contender.  Properly configured, the Vega 56 has improved tremendously in performance compared to when it originally released. Sure, it's not considered "high end" anymore in the desktop space, but it can currently hold it's own with some of the best mobile video cards available.   

We, this small group of owners of this particular system, have had to band together and help each other with all the problems ACER decided to ignore with this system simply because they treated it and approached it as if it was any other laptop, when it really needed to be treated just like their DESKTOPS because its better described as being a more like a mobile version of those iMac style PC's where the computer is housed in the monitor, than it is as being described as a laptop..  (If a system's chipset IS a DESKTOP chipset, then treat it like a DESKTOP regardless of form factor!!!)  While Acer's support of this product has been a monumental failure, it did bring many of us together, as WE had to solve issues without much, if any, help from Acer (what is defined as "customer support" takes on a VERY unique meaning when you apply it to the owners of the PH517-61) and I would venture that owners of this particular model, as a result, has a VERY knowledgeable community of owners that is extremely tightknit and unique in the technology community compared with nearly any other model of "laptop". Our experiences are similar, yet unique, and many have crossed paths as we've reached out for any kind of assistance as we all eventually hit road blocks of some kind. I know that my personal trials and tribulations with this system have made me curse her loudly on multiple occasions, but also made me quite attached and fond of her, despite her quirks, and when she's running well, she's amazing.  If I saw someone else with one, I know I'd stop and attempt a conversation.

Overall, from how many out there are impressed with the engineering of this system, recognize the untapped and unfulfilled potential laying dormant within, and are serious about finding a way of unlocking it, I'm pretty confident that SOMEONE will be able to figure out a method or program a viable BIOS update eventually for this system.. ONE DAY anyway... How long that will be, that's the big question.. Hopefully while the system can still be considered relevant after the upgrades are installed.  So if its only Zen 2 max on an upgrade, then hopefully BEFORE Zen 4 comes out.  If someone manages a Zen 3 then it can be during Zen 4's life, but by Zen 5's release, it'd be pushing it...  but I already know with the 16MB ROM, it will be a HUGE pain in general for Zen 3 unless its possible to fit all the most current AGESA code as well as the motherboard BIOS GUI/program code to fit entirely in the 16mb ROM.. 

 

Personally, I was shocked when I learned the "minimum ROM size" AMD said was necessary to fit the newest AGESA (as in Ryzen 3's AGESA) BIOS updates on motherboards was 32MB!!  for a BIOS, thats HUGE!!  As it is, when I learned the Predator Helios 500 had a 16MB ROM, I honestly thought that it was an oversized memory chip used by ACER because they were available and cheap or something. I just figured it'd be mostly empty space and that it would EASILY fit ANY future BIOS update..  I didn't realize that 16MB was a "standard" AMD motherboard specification THEY specified, or, at least, it was, until AMD realized they needed to increase it to 32MB to maintain the backward compatibility on the AM4 socket for the additional 2 CPU generations they already promised customers..  Still, I'd like to be able to find out the MINIMUM basic size of the AGESA code ALONE.. Basically what is the ABSOLUTE minimum ROM size needed JUST to store the AGESA.. Is it under 16MB? If so, then with the super minimalist BIOS itself in this "laptop", as in the throwback 80's/90's BIOS used on the Helios500, it'd be VERY possible the 16MB ROM could fit it all..  They're getting way overly complex and graphical than what they need to be anyway. While not a fan of the absolute LACK of options, I DO love the overall asthetic of the Helios 500's BIOS.

Anyway, I know I went off on tangents, but overall, I wanted to get that bit about the owners of this particular model of "laptop" being very unique compared to other "groups of owners" as our experience has been a shared one and we've had to figure things out and pass on what we found to work or ways we solved issues and we've managed to mostly get our systems running TONS better than when we first got them.

RAID3R

GlitchedAtBirth can you tell please:

1. What memory models are you currently using? 

- (example model: HX******IB2K2/16)

- quantity of modules? 

- Single or Dual rank of this modules (if you know)?

- installation slot?

DIMM A1 (internal slots under topcase)

DIMM A0 (internal slots under topcase)

DIMM B1 (external slots)

DIMM B0 (external slots)

2. How does your cooling system feel after completely disassembling the laptop without removing the cooling radiators, are there any changes temperature for the worse?

evolucion888

bobzdar said:

There is a newer predator sense that allows using the latest (at least as of the spring) ryzen master, but it doesn't unlock anything useful.  There's also a new bios available via windows update but no idea what changes it has.  I kind of gave up on acer actually supporting any updated cpus or ram speeds and gave it to my son and bought a zephyrus g14, which beats it at about 1/3 the weight with a 10 hour battery instead of a 1 hour battery... That said I'd plop a 3700x and some 3000mhz ram in it if it could actually leverage it to give it another year or two of relevancy.  It had a lot of unfulfilled promise but ultimately not worth the lack of both portability and battery life anymore.  Sad as really just a few bios updates would still have it relevant. 

I installed the latest Ryzen Master and managed to increase the memory clockspeed back to their default 2,400MHz as when I purchased two identical RAM sticks that matches the one that the laptop has to upgrade the capacity to 32GB, then dialed down to 2,133MHz. I can also OC the CPU, work with the timings and fiddle with some voltages. So its odd that you can't do that, unless if you are on Read Only Mode on the Ryzen master Profile. 

GlitchedAtBirth

RAID3R said:

GlitchedAtBirth can you tell please:

1. What memory models are you currently using? 

- (example model: HX******IB2K2/16)

- quantity of modules? 

- Single or Dual rank of this modules (if you know)?

- installation slot?

DIMM A1 (internal slots under topcase)

DIMM A0 (internal slots under topcase)

DIMM B1 (external slots)

DIMM B0 (external slots)

2. How does your cooling system feel after completely disassembling the laptop without removing the cooling radiators, are there any changes temperature for the worse?

1. I purchased kit model: HX426S16IBK2/64    https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/HX426S16IBK2_64.pdf

    --its 2 modules of Dual rank 32GB SODIMMs (64GB total) My particular kit has Micron chips

  They are currently occupying the A DIMMs. 

2.  As it relates to this question, I'm going to briefly provide some details.  The night I installed my RAM and new WiFi 6 card, initially I followed the teardown COMPLETELY.  This included removing the entire CPU/GPU cooling assembly. (Note: Despite never noticing any change in operating temps since getting the system, I found a LOT of my cat's fur had collected in the radiators so I used this opportunity to thoroughly clean everything and have made a mental note to try to do so again every 3 months or so as part of regular maintenance.) I removed the original RAM and ORIGINALLY installed my new kit in the B slots.  Carefully reassembled, replugged in cables, utilized some high quality thermal compound for my CPU and GPU, and powered the system back on.  Initially, I must have missed something, still not clear what, but likely a loose cable, however I basically tore it down to the point of heat sink, but didn't remove them and instead worked my way back to reassembling.  Finally booted.  Found my RAM had downclocked when I had believed I would be capable of achieving the 2666 speeds as shown in that information provided from that technical manual as this this kit had the proper Jedec tables.  As a result, this is when I again disassembled, HOWEVER, I did NOT remove the CPU/GPU heatsink from the motherboard as I did NOT want to have to go thru the process of repasting, especially as I didn't have enough left to do as nice of a job as I had originally, and instead made sure that there was NOTHING connecting the board to the case and instead of going "by the book" took a VERY LONG time being EXTREMELY careful and was very delicate with every movement as I lifted the board just enough to get underneath and install the both sticks into the A DIMMs.  OH, and I didn't do this alone and had my best friend that is also very experienced with computer builds (in fact, likely has built more than I have) with me to lend a hand, and he was extremely helpful with this "technique" being a success.  I didn't want to risk damaging anything, especially if the thought pops in my head that I've recognized as a warning sign: "Wish humans had (insert number over 2 here) hands about right about now..."  As that thought coming to mind is a signal to myself that a possible mistake happening if I don't get more hands has grown exponentially.. Anyway, after AGAIN reassembling, I still was clocked down from the EXPECTED speed of 2666.  I decided to at least attempt to bring it up using Ryzen Master to see if I could just FORCE it up.  While I couldn't get it to 2666, I was able to reach 2400, which I wasn't going to complain about since this was still better than what it booted at, so I wasn't any slower than my original 16GB kit, and it wasn't likely that I was ever going to find better quality 32gb DIMMs at a better price. Also, I've managed to adjust my timings to a point I'm EXTREMELY impressed with, which makes me believe this kit happened to be one of those better than most "silicon lottery winners."

Besides my kit possibly being a "winner", I'm also glad I didn't complain/return them and attempt to make that printed 2666 speed work because IT WON'T!!  I've been doing LOTS of research into the topic and found out that the printed 2666 speed is only possible with the 2700 CPU using dual rank DIMM's IF your motherboard only HAS 2 total SLOTS!!  With 4 slots, you MAX out at 2400mhz and that this system can only achieve 2666 speeds if you install no more than 2 SINGLE RANK DIMM's!!  So, until a company actually makes a SINGLE RANK SODIMM available to purchase, it's currently IMPOSSIBLE with this system to have 64GB of RAM clocked at 2666mhz, despite what Acer's document says..  

And, my system's temps are a bit better than prior to the disassembly (roughly 2-3 degrees lower), MAYBE from the high end paste, but likely more from the removal of cat hair clumps from the radiators increasing air flow.  However, prior to "surgery" the highest I would ever see my temps get during a long and particularly heavy workload was around 67-68 degrees, so no real noticeable signs that any kind of problem existed or that it was developing a problem.  Temps have been low since day one and I rarely, if ever, hear my fans get loud enough to even really notice them.

I know this is WAY more info that you wanted, but figure I'd be detailed so that you get as accurate a picture as possible and hopefully benefit from what I've learned.  Also, I haven't seen this information about the RAM on any other posts I've read thru, so hopefully by posting it here, it will start getting passed along.  I'll try not to write you another novel next time, if you still have any questions for me.  Finally, from one Beast owner to another: I wish you a Happy New Year!!  And the best of luck with any upgrades you are planning