Computer will not start

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Jokke01
Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

Tinkerer

edited March 1 in 2019 Archives
Hey! I have a problem with the Acer Aspire XC-704 (original parts on my computer, not changed) that the computer does not turn on when the power key is pressed. The computer was a couple of weeks off the power supply because I was not home, then the computer did not work (there are no disturbances in the slots because the other devices work normally). Can the fault be in a power supply that can be located on the cord?
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Answers

  • brummyfan2
    brummyfan2 ACE Posts: 28,106 Trailblazer
    edited August 2018
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    Hi,
    Try a power drain,disconnect from mains and press power button for 30 secs, leave the PC to rest for a while before starting again.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

    Tinkerer

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    Do I have to remove this power cord before I press the power button 30sek, or do I still have to? 🤔
  • Commodore_1995#
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    You should disconnect the desktop from the mains and also from the stabilizer if you are connected to this unit! Then press the power button for thirty seconds to eliminate any static power that may be interfering with the operation of the computer!
    Did you try plugging it into another electrical outlet?
    Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
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  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

    Tinkerer

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    I tried those instructions but still will not start :/
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
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    It's very possible the fault is the power supply. It is a 19V 65W or 90W supply, similar to many used on laptops. If you have access to one (even if larger wattage) that has the correct connector you can test before purchasing a replacement. Here are the stock supplies. The 1.7x5.5x11 numbers are, I believe, connector size and wire length, but the 11 might be barrel length instead of wire...

    • CHICONY POWER 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A065R078L LF
    • DELTA 65W_5.5phy 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-65VH FA LF
    • LITE-ON 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1650-86AL LF
    • CHICONY POWER 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A10-090P3A / A090A029L LF
    • DELTA 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-90MD HBA LF
    • LITE-ON 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1900-32AW L


    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    billsey said:
    It's very possible the fault is the power supply. It is a 19V 65W or 90W supply, similar to many used on laptops. If you have access to one (even if larger wattage) that has the correct connector you can test before purchasing a replacement. Here are the stock supplies. The 1.7x5.5x11 numbers are, I believe, connector size and wire length, but the 11 might be barrel length instead of wire...

    • CHICONY POWER 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A065R078L LF
    • DELTA 65W_5.5phy 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-65VH FA LF
    • LITE-ON 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1650-86AL LF
    • CHICONY POWER 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A10-090P3A / A090A029L LF
    • DELTA 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-90MD HBA LF
    • LITE-ON 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1900-32AW L


    I tried another power source and did not go to work 🤔🤨
  • Commodore_1995#
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    Did you check for any disconnected cables?

    Oi! Eu não sou sou a cortana! Mas estou aqui para ajudar! Hi! I'm not the cortana! But I'm here to help!
    Se você gostou da minha resposta, marque como solução clicando em sim! If you liked my answer, mark it as a solution by clicking on yes!
    Aceite somente a resposta que ajudou a solucionar o seu problema! Please accept only the response that helped to solve your problem!
    Detection tool click here to find the serial number or partnumber of your model!                                                          

               
      egydiocoelho Trailblazer
     
    ProductKey clique aqui para descobrir o serial do windows! click here to discover the windows serial!
    Para usuários da comunidade inglesa, espanhola, francesa e alemã, usarei o google tradutor! :)
    For users of the English, Spanish, French and German community, I will be using google translator! :) 
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    Did you check for any disconnected cables?

    I also tried that, but there is still a mute machine 🤔🤨
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
    edited August 2018
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    OK, we are into the range of deep technical diagnostics now then. There are two primary things I'd test for at this point. The power comes into the motherboard with what looks to me like a right angle jack soldered in. If the jack or solder points are broken you might see these symptoms. Check to see that it's solidly mounted and that the center electrode is still there and straight. As Egydiocoelho suggests, the next place is where the power button connects to the motherboard. Verify the power button is functioning by testing to continuity at the connector as you press the button.If power coming in is working and the power button is working as well I'm afraid we're looking at the motherboard itself as the culprit. :(

    If this level of diagnostics looks too involved for your skill level (or you don't have the tools) try taking it to a local technician. It shouldn't be too expensive to do these tests for you.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    If this is the case, do you mean the point in the picture, the power supply connection of the computer? 🤔 At least it seems to be somewhat trimmed (photo 1) and it seems to have a small hole on the other side of the hollow between that connection and the attachment (photo 2)
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
    edited August 2018
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    Tough to tell for sure from the picture, but it looks OK to me. In the first picture you can almost see the solder connections for the jack. The outside two are shield ground, used to keep EMI emissions down. The center two are power and ground and they look good. If the center electrode on the outside looks good as well we can rule out the power jack.

    The next step is to test the function of the power switch. It connects to the motherboard as shown in that picture Egydiocoelho
    posted. It looks like there are four wires coming off it, but you'll want to look at yours when you unplug it. Next get the front panel loose and see which colors go to the power switch. There should be just two of them. Put a meter between them and verify you have continuity with the button pressed and no continuity when the button is released. Take a look also at the connector on the motherboard to be sure there isn't any corrosion and no obstruction and do the same to the connector on the wires.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    What kind of meter do you mean? The connector seems to be all right 🤔
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
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    A cheap VOM meter (measures Voltage and resistance(Ohms)) would be fine. You are testing continuity, so even one of the beep style would work.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    At least I did not find a normal abnormality with that meter.
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
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    So when you test between the two wires from the power switch you get something close to infinite ohms (often displayed as 1) normally and when you press the power button it changes to something much closer to zero.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    billsey said:
    So when you test between the two wires from the power switch you get something close to infinite ohms (often displayed as 1) normally and when you press the power button it changes to something much closer to zero.
    I got the same results as you did.
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
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    So not good news. If the power comes into the motherboard fine (BTW you can now test that with the meter, just set it to at least 20VDC and measure at those two center pins on the power jack) and the power switch is switching the only thing left is the motherboard itself. :(
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

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    billsey said:
    So not good news. If the power comes into the motherboard fine (BTW you can now test that with the meter, just set it to at least 20VDC and measure at those two center pins on the power jack) and the power switch is switching the only thing left is the motherboard itself. :(
    I started to look at the power supply more accurately, my laptop power cord is plugged into the desktop, but the desktop computer does not go to the laptop. The port on the laptop is a bit bigger, but it thrills if it goes to the desktop computer even if the desktop computer's power cord is not in the laptop. Can I still have a problem with the power cord, because I can not really test it? 🤔
  • billsey
    billsey ACE Posts: 31,722 Trailblazer
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    Yes, it could still be the power supply itself. If you plug it in and connect it to the computer and your meter doesn'r read pretty close to 19VDC where the power jack connects to the motherboard (careful there to not short the + with - or the shield grounds) the supply is likely bad.
    Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question.
  • Jokke01
    Jokke01 Member Posts: 15

    Tinkerer

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    billsey said:
    It's very possible the fault is the power supply. It is a 19V 65W or 90W supply, similar to many used on laptops. If you have access to one (even if larger wattage) that has the correct connector you can test before purchasing a replacement. Here are the stock supplies. The 1.7x5.5x11 numbers are, I believe, connector size and wire length, but the 11 might be barrel length instead of wire...

    • CHICONY POWER 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A065R078L LF
    • DELTA 65W_5.5phy 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-65VH FA LF
    • LITE-ON 65W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1650-86AL LF
    • CHICONY POWER 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 A10-090P3A / A090A029L LF
    • DELTA 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 ADP-90MD HBA LF
    • LITE-ON 90W 19V 1.7x5.5x11 PA-1900-32AW L


    In your message when you have the power supplies you recommended to that computer, I wrote that on Google and I got to Acer's own online store. However, there is no way to order products from Finland and there are not exactly such power sources (checked by local dealers, for example) :(