Aspire switch 10 totally dead.

nojah

My Switch 10 recently died. I can't turn it on and the led is not even indicating charging when I connect the charger.
It's almost as if the charger itself have died.

I have contacted Acer support and just got it approved for service. But since it's out of warranty I'm having second thoughts about sending it away. What may be the cost for troubleshooting?

I've read about people having similar problems that's been resolved by pressing power button and volume switch simultaneously, but it doesn't seem to work in my case.

laurent_14

Hello,

 

You found 4.2V and the battery voltage is 3.8V. It means the battery is full. I don't think the issue is here.

Have you check the connectors of the ribbon cable are correctly inserted?

My opinion:

" I can't turn it on and the led is not even indicating charging when I connect the charger."

The power button is perhaps defective (55.L47N5.001 - Audio board). Check it visually.

David_R

Been through that myself; I took it back and got a full refund.

 

I discovered a chat by a technician who reported a badly-made connection, and was able to repair it, but cited it as a common fault. I found that a gentle sideways smack on the tablet made the conenction again, and I could switch it on. But that's hardly reliable - so it went back.

 

If yours is out of warranty a repair to the power connection (I forget exaclty where, sorry) might be an option.

laurent_14

Hello nojah,

 

Could you give me the first ten characters of the tablet serial number (S/N)? Only the first ten.

Or

What model do you own exactly?

nojah

The model is: Aspire Switch 10 SW5-011-182H

And the first ten digits in the S/N is: NXL47ED003, same as the P/N: NX.L47ED.003

laurent_14

Hello nojah,

 

1. Have you checked the output voltage of the AC adapter with a multimeter?
   You should have 12 volts DC.
2. If the output voltage is correct, you have to replace the cable DC-IN:
   
   Spoiler

   50.L47N5.005

   CABLE.DC.IN

   It is located under the "right" speaker.
3. You can request a quote and place an order from your Acer store in using the customer service form.

   In the form:

   1. You select in "Please Select a Subject: Other"

   2. In "Describe the Problem:", you indicate the S/N of the tablet.

   3. Example:

       "Price request for the following spare parts:

        - P/N, description

        - Etc"

   You'll receive a quote by mail (pdf document). You can also phone them.

nojah

Thanks for the feedback, and I'm not afraid of try to fix it myself.

It would be great if there was some kind of description on how to get into the tablet and I guess you pry open the back in some way? But it would be good to know where to start so you don't brake anything.   

laurent_14

Hello,

 

Watch this video

Follow these instructions:

1. Remove the back cover (video)
2. Lift to remove the speaker
3. Disconnect the DC wire cable from the main board
4. Remove 1 screw from the DC in bracket
5. Lift to remove the DC in bracket
6. Lift to remove the DC wire cable
   
   

PS: I don't think you'll need to remove the motherboard.

nojah

Thanks again for the nice tutorial, and it was really easy to get inside the tablet using a guitar pick.
I couldn't find my multimeter at home so I have to check the connections on the DC-cable tonight when I bring home a multimeter from work.
At least the charger is working.

 

Personally I doubt the AC-cable is the problem here, if the input jack is bad I should be able to get the charging led to light up when wiggling the charger contact? But I'll get back later tonight.

nojah

Now I've tested the cable and it seems to be ok. I got 12V at the motherboard end of it (at the solder points on the motherboard).

At the solder point of the battery connector I got 4.2V between the black and red with no difference if the charger is connected or not, does not seems to be right? and 0V between black and yellow.

 

So it seems something is wrong with the charging of the battery?

laurent_14

Hello,

 

You found 4.2V and the battery voltage is 3.8V. It means the battery is full. I don't think the issue is here.

Have you check the connectors of the ribbon cable are correctly inserted?

My opinion:

" I can't turn it on and the led is not even indicating charging when I connect the charger."

The power button is perhaps defective (55.L47N5.001 - Audio board). Check it visually.

nojah

Thank you very much sir, that was it!

The ribbon cable was only inserted half way in at the power button end, and after re-fittng it it works again.

 

 

 

 

laurent_14

Hello,

 

Does your tablet fell/dropped?

It is not normal. Assembling problem in production!

nojah

No major dropps, however it have tipped over a couple of times due to it's top-heavyness.

 

I noticed that the ribbon cable connected to the power/volume button was taped to the back of the battery using double-sticky tape and it was really tight to the connection.

So when I re-inserted the cable I gave just a litte bit of slack before taping it to the back of the battery again so there will be a little room for flexing.

Berna54

hi may i ask if you're able to make your unit work again? my switch 10 also suddenly went black but i dont know if it has something to do with BIOS update.

nojah

Yes, my Switch 10 works again. But my issue didn't have anything to do with the BIOS, it was the ribbon cable that was disconnected at the power/volume button side.

I simply revoved the back cover and re-connected the cable and everything works again, well obviously the volume button narrator issue still exists.

Berna54

thanks Nojah.

is it advisable to open the unit? could you recommend a link on how to?

nojah

If the unit is no longer under waranty I dont think it would harm to try and fix yourself.

 

I used a guitar pick to pry it open, but in this video it looks like the guy is using a credit card.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q5zMrHi2hM

BuyaDell

My experience in Malaysia is that they charge RM 53 for troubleshooting. In my case the cost they then came up with for the repair was ridiculous compared to the original cost of the unit.

goofyC

Hi nojah. 
Absolutely brilliant. Exactly as you describe, same model which I acquired because somebody was throwing it away as DOA. The ribbon cable is stretched very tightly and  glued to the battery, just a little flexing of the screen is enough to tension the cable and release the small plastic locking bar. All I had to do was re-insert the cable, lock it and now everything is working perfectly again. This would have taken me hours to discover otherwise. Thank you very much.